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  1. Xref: sparky rec.woodworking:10095 misc.consumers.house:17297
  2. Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,misc.consumers.house
  3. Path: sparky!uunet!paladin.american.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!SPACE20.nrl.navy.mil!Healy
  4. From: <Healy@space50.nrl.navy.mil>
  5. Subject: hardwood floor repair
  6. Message-ID: <C1A178.G92@ra.nrl.navy.mil>
  7. Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil
  8. Reply-To: <Healy@space50.nrl.navy.mil>
  9. Organization: Naval Research Laboratory
  10. References:  <1993Jan22.010500.17955@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>  <1993Jan21.215016.11711@acuson.com>
  11. Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 22:30:43 GMT
  12. Lines: 20
  13.  
  14. In article <1993Jan22.010500.17955@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> patter@dasher.cc.bellcore.com (patterson,george r) writes:
  15. > 
  16. > Now put the tongue of the new board in place, and drop the other end down.
  17. > You might want to glue this board in; otherwise, use finishing nails,
  18. > countersink them, and fill the holes.
  19. > 
  20. > Before cutting, make *absolutely sure* that there is a subfloor (cause
  21. > that's all that will hold this thing together. One of my rooms is carpeted
  22. > because there's a broken board in the middle and there's no subfloor.
  23. > 
  24.  
  25. Why is subflooring necessary?  Can't one nail it to the joists like
  26. the original board?  Basically I don't see the difference between 
  27. the original board and the replacement except the latter is missing
  28. the bottom of the groove, and it doesn't seem like subflooring would
  29. make any difference.  Or am I missing something?
  30.  
  31. Liam Healy
  32.  
  33.  
  34.