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P/HUN Issue #4, Volume 2: Phile 4 of 11 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Vital Credit Card Information and Usage or Fun with Numbers revision A ______________________________________________________________________________ The following is list of ideas and facts that have been brought together for the sole purpose of educating those who lack this knowledge. In writing this, I do not intend for the reader to use any information contained herein, but rather to further his/her own education and provoke thought to perhaps better the society we live in. ______________________________________________________________________________ I. Card Types The first digit of the credit card number (henceforth referred to as CCN) determines the credit card type. A simple list might be: First Digit of Credit Card Card Type -------------------------- --------- 3 American Express 4 Visa 5 Mastercard 6 Discover II. Bank and Branch Numbers Sample Credit Card: 1234 567 890 123 ^ | Within the first group of numbers from the left [called Group 4] the Bank name and branch are contained. We have already discovered that the first digit of Group 4 reveals the card type. We will now look at how to decipher which bank issued the card, and which branch of the bank the actual card holder banks at. Look at the Second, Third, and Fourth digits of Group 4. These three numbers tell which bank issued the card. A small list follows this paragraph, although you can compile a list by yourself. Just glance at cards you get your hands on which the bank name is printed, and record the information. [ Editor's Note: This is a hard concept to explain, so let me give you an example. Lets say Bank of Hicksville's group 4 Visa Credit Card reads 4560. (560 = Bank of Hicksville). BUT, 4561 is NOT necessarily Bank of Hicksville, too. 4561 could be Bank of Booniesville. So what I am trying to get across is that the next bank in line doesn't HAVE to be 4570 -- it could be earlier in numbers. ] ----------VISA ---- Group 4 Bank Name -------- --------- 4019 Bank of America 4024 Bank of America 4052 First Cincinatti 4060 Navy Federal Credit Union 4128 Citibank 4131 State Street Bank 4215 Marine Midland 4225 Chase Manhattan 4231 Chase Lincoln First Classic 4232 Chase Lincoln First Classic 4241 Nat. Westminester Bank 4250 First Chicago Bank 4271 Citibank Preferred 4302 H.H.B.C. 4310 Imperial Savings 4317 Gold Dome 4387 Bank One 4428 Bank of Hoven 4811 Bank of Hawaii 4897 Village bank of Cincinatti ----------Mastercards ----------- Group 4 Bank Name --------- --------- 5215 Marine Midland 5217 Manufacturers Hanover Trust 5233 Huntington Bank 5242 Chevy Chase Federal Savings 5254 Bank of America 5263 Chemical Bank 5273 Bank of America 5286 Chase Lincoln First 5317 Norwest 5323 Bank of New York 5329 Maryland Bank NA (MBNA) 5410 Citibank Preferred 5411 1st Fin. bank of Omaha 5414 Nat. Westminester Bank 5415 Colonial National Bank 5424 Citibank 5465 Chase Manhattan 5678 Marine Midland III. Bank Codes [ International Bank or Interlink Numbers] These are used in checking credit. Later on, you will learn that while checking the credit cards for the amount of credit, you will be prompted to enter the Bank ID along with the Merchant ID. The bank IDs are, I believe, from the following list. One note-- you cannot just choose any Bank ID and use it with any merchant ID. They must correspond in some way. How, I don't know. I THINK that a bank issues a merchant number to each of their customers. If you try to use a merchant number with a bank number, and the merchant doesn't actually use the bank that is specified by the bank number, you are going to get some problems. (ie, the verification won't go through.) Again, I will state that this is only a theory. The reason that I post this theory is to get minds working. So far, no one has mentioned their ideas on the function of Bank Codes. If you do happen to find out the true meaning of these numbers, please get in touch with me so I can update this list. Thanks. One word- on VISA credit cards, the bank IDs are the first 4 digits of the Card. For Mastercards, however, they vary. A list follows: Bank Bank Code ---- --------- Chemical Bank 1263 Marine Midland 6207 [1207?] Manufacturers Hanover Trust 1033 Citibank 1035 Huntington 1226 First Card Gold 1286 MBNA 6017 Chase Manhatten 1665 [ Bank from 5127 ] 1015 IV. "Group 3" Sample Credit Card: 1234 5678 9012 3456 ^ | | Group 3, or the second group on a credit card in from the left, contains some VERY useful information about the card. This group holds the information on the Maximum Expiration Date and the Maximum Credit Limit. (I believe that you can all see the benefits of this.) This does not mean, however, that the ACTUAL expiration date and ACTUAL credit limit are in this group. What it means is this: When the different Credit Card Companies issue Credit Cards to the consumer, he of course has a credit limit. And when the Companies formulate credit cards, they create certain groups for certain customers. That is, certain "groups" contain all the credit cards for people with a credit limit between $x and $y. The same thing goes with the expiration dates. Everyone whose card expires after m1/y1 and before m2/y2 has their credit card in a certain group formulated by the company. For example: My name is Joe Schmoe. My Visa credit card expires in January of the year 1999. My credit limit on this card is $7,000. My credit card number (CCN) will probably be in the same group as my brother-in-law Jack Koff whose card expires in December of 1998 and whose credit limit is $6,000. BUT, our cards will be in different groups entirely than my boss' whose card expires in June of 1995 and whose credit limit is $40,000. Back to the point of section IV: Lets say you have a credit card with a known expiration date and known credit limit. Lets also say that you happen upon ANOTHER credit card whose numbers are the same up until the last 2 groups. (You and I see that these two cards were issued by the same bank and PROBABLY have a credit limit in the same ball park and an expiration date not far from each other. ) BUT, even though you have this new credit card, you lost the expiration date and credit limit. GOSH! How are you going to use this card when you don't know this information?? APROXIMATE! You have a general idea now, and you can go from there. One warning here: I have found that small groups of cards with high credit limits are often hidden in between large groups of cards with very low credit limits. For instance, lets look at this card: 4123 4567 8901 2345. From -4567 until 4600 in group 3 (from the right) gold cards may exist. But after 4600 and before 4567, cards with credit limits of $500 exist. Kind of sucks, huh?? Just wanted to make you aware of this. Now, once you learn how to modify these without hurting the card, you have increased your value as a carder by 100x. But be careful. Often when you modify a card's group 3 to get a higher credit limit line of cards, you will find the entire line is dead. Or, in other cases, just the original card you find is dead, and all surrounding cards are valid with the new credit limits. V. "Group 2" & "Group 1" These two groups, or the last two groups on the credit card, are the easiest to modify. By changing these in such a way, you can formulate new credit cards simply by doing a little math in your head. These two groups contain the IDentification codes. Later on in your carding careers, you might find out how to change these, and thus, you have found the secret to a vault of new and awaiting credit cards. I stress here that the only purpose that these two groups serve is to differentiate between customers. If the first two groups of two cards are the same and the last two groups of two cards are different, the two cards were issued by the same bank and probably have similar credit limits, but are of course issued to different people. VI. Credit Card Verification Once you have a newly formulated or newly found Credit Card, you must first check to see if it is valid before you distribute or use it. The reason for this is this: Although you may not have faltered in your calculations, and you created a credit card following the correct formula, the card may turn up as invalid. This is because it has not been issued yet. Visa or Mastercard has not issued that card to a customer yet. You are ahead of the credit card company. (Don't you feel important??!) If this case arises, simply formulate a new credit card from the original valid credit card, and check it once again. There is no known way around this except to wait. OKAY- you want to check your credit card and see how much money this person has. There are many, many credit verifiers around. The easiest way to get ahold of one is to go into any store which accepts credit cards and look on the side of the machine that imprints the carbons with the credit card number, etc. Or, look right on the wall next to the register. There should be a number to call, a merchant number, and perhaps a bank number. Jot these down and head on home. The format for these is usually different, but all have the basic idea in mind. Call an operator of some sort, tell her the authorization information that she asks for (bank number,merchant number, etc) and give her the card and the amount for which to verify the card. She will check and let you know if it has enough credit left. Simple. BUT*** ******************* ONE NOTE ********************** When you check a card for a certain amount of money, that amount of money is subtracted from the amount available on the card. For example, if a card has $5,000 left on it, and you get ahold of it and check it for $2,000, you can only spend $3,000 before it tells you that you don't have the necessary credit to go through with a transaction. VII. Purchasing Merchandise: The Real Story OKAY, now that you have a VALID credit card, you will most likely want to get some newly acquired merchandise. This is all fine and dandy, but if you don't know what you are doing, you can get yourself and most likely your friends in a LOT of trouble. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- *** WARNING : NEVER ORDER SOMETHING FROM YOUR HOUSE. ALWAYS GO OUT TO A *** *** PAY PHONE. ALSO, ALWAYS HAVE A STORY WORKED OUT BEFORE YOU CALL. *** *** THAT IS, YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, JOB, PHONE NUMBER, EXCUSE FOR NOT BEING*** *** HOME, MOTHER'S MAIDEN NAME, ETC. ANY STUTTERING OR HESITATION COULD *** *** BLOW THE WHOLE SHOW !!! !!! !!! !!! !!! !!! !!! !!! !!! !!!*** --------------------------------------------------------------------------- FIRST- Let me clarify something. When you order something over the phone, and the person selling you the items wants to know the actual Cardholder's name, address, phone number, etc, you DO NOT have to give him/her the correct information. [UNLESS: You do have to give the person correct information if they have an online connection to a credit record bureau such as CBI or TRW. In this case, as they can verify everything that you say in a matter of moments, just do your best, get a new card, and never order from this company again. I will not lie to you: some companies do have this capability. But if you stick with little bussinesses who need your money, you'll do fine. ] Bullshit your way through. Or hire a social engineer to do it for you. You do not even have to give the correct expiration date! Almost Any expiration date will work as long as it is at least one month ahead of the current month and it is not TOO far ahead in time so that it jumped over the actual expiration date. (ie, if the current date is 10/89, give the expiration date 11/89 -- simple) The company from which you are buying things can not verify the extra information YOU give them until after the order has been processed and the package shipped. They have to get in touch with a Credit Union, which will be discussed later on in this summary, to verify it all. * ALL THAT THEY CAN VERIFY PRONTO IS THAT THE CREDIT CARD IS VALID, AND THAT IT HAS ENOUGH CREDIT TO PAY FOR THE MERCHANDISE YOU ARE PURCHASING. * My suggestion, however, is that you give them the phone number of a pay phone near your house. [ Or, if you want to REALLY make sure things go smoothly, give them the number of a direct dial VMB local to the shipping address. ] If they want to call you back, FINE. Ask them to do so between the hours of X pm and Y pm. And, just pitch tent at the phone for a few hours a night. No problem. They will almost always call right back, since they don't want to inconvenience their customer who happens to be buying $6,000 worth of computers at the time. Understand? SECOND- Where should I ask have them ship it to, you ask? Fret not, my little friend in carding. Before you call and order your things, first go out and find an abandoned house. These still work best. Either one that has been moved out of, and no one has moved into yet. Or, if you can, find one that is REALLY abandoned. (BUT MAKE SURE IT HAS A STREET ADDRESS THAT THE POSTMAN OR UPS MAN CAN FIND!) Jot down this address. This is referred to as a drop site. [ Ed. Note: if, and I say IF you can rent a mailbox, do so. Make sure they sign for everything (UPS, etc) and bring some FAKE ID with you to open it up. Most of the time, they will give you hastle, and verify EVERYTHING you give them. So it is really not that easy to get one of these. At least try, though. ] OKAY, give this address to the man or lady who is taking your order. Tell them this is where you live. REMEMBER, they can not verify that you don't live there for quite a while. They will send everything there. When the shipment comes (either Overnight, Second Day, or whenever), pick it up (CASUALLY) and stroll home to open your package. If it does not come, or if the salesperson gives you trouble, don't worry. If it didn't come, it is because 1) It got intercepted by the feds or 2) The company didn't process it because they did actually try to verify your address, name, and phone number, thus delaying your shipment, but saving themselves a lot of money. Just try another store until you find some place that is easy to buy from. THIRD- I suggest that you do not furnish your household with carded items. It is just not wise. Get a few things, if you like, and wait a little while. Sit tight. When things cool down, you might want to get some more things. REMEMBER- all things are good in proportion, but when you get out of that proportion (ie, get greedy and order a new house) you will most definately get caught sometime or another. Patience is the carder's best friend. (along, of course, with the VISA formula... hehe) FOURTH- You have all heard it before. DON'T DISPLAY YOUR SPEICAL TALENT AT SCHOOL, PARTIES, OR SOCIAL EVENTS. Not even to your best friends. ESPECIALLY not to your best friends. They are the ones most likely to brag about you and spread the word. This is the farthest thing from what you want. Keep it to yourself, and if you must tell someone about it, either call Phone Sex, a Bridge, or an Alaskan Operator. Those are your only choices, as no other carder or phreak wants to hear about how good you actually are. FIFTH- I wouldn't advise making a bussiness out of this, either. Sure, if you want to get a few dollars for things you order (and that you don't want anymore) sell it and keep the money. But its purely asinine to take "orders" from people for money. And even if you don't want money. Keep in mind that Credit Fraud IS a felony, and getting caught violating US Federal Laws is not a fun experience to go through. Do you want to go to jail for 10 years, and never again be able to get a good job because Joey down the street wanted to pay $10 for a new skateboard that retails for $75?? Thats what I thought. Your whole goal in life, as long as you participate in the Underground Arts, is to keep a low profile. VIII. Getting Credit Cards There are a number of ways through which you can get credit cards. FIRST- Go trashing. That is, go in back of a bank, department store (make sure it is not in a mall!), or other store which accepts credit cards. When the coast is clear, jump in their trash bin. Rummage around a bit. Having a look out might prove to be wise. What you are looking for are carbons - the carbon paper which the salesperson throws out after a purchase has been made. Remember these? It is the device that guarentees you (a legit customer) get a receipt of your credit card purchase, and also that the store gets a copy for record keeping. Once you find these, (and making sure you don't rip them) put them in a bag, pocket, whatever, and get somewhere safe. (home?) Hold them up to the light, and copy down everything you think is important. Card Number, expiration date, name, address, bank name, etc... Then BURN the carbons. This destroys all evidence that you ever had them. From here, you are set. Order away! SECOND- If you have a friend that works in a store which performs credit card transactions, you might save yourself the trouble of banana peals on your head and ask him/her if they might not mind slipping the carbons into a bag after they ring up a sale. (or have them copy everything down for you.) THIRD- You might try bullshitting people and getting their cards. You have to be VERY good, and the person has to be VERY stupid for this to work. In my mind, it is a waste of time, and almost never works. (Because people where I live are smart, of course..) I am presenting this to you in case you live in a society of morons. Exploit every area that you possibly can. The conversation might go something like this: YOU: "Hello, Mrs. Davis? This is Mr. Off from Security down at Citibank. We have had a computer breakdown and no more of your VISA transactions can be processed since we lost your credit card number. Do you think that you can give me your number again, so I can re-enter it right now?" Mrs. Davis: "Wait a minute, who is this again?" YOU: "My name is Jack Off and I am from Citibank Security. (Explain whole situation to her again )" Mrs. Davis: "I don't know about this. Can I call you back at a number?" YOU: "Sure. That's no problem. I understand your reluctance. Here... call me at my office. Its 555-1212 (pay phone, loop, or bridge which you are at)" Mrs. Davis: "Ok, bye!" <CLICK> <RING...> YOU: "Hello? This is Jack Off's office, Citibank Security, may I help you?" Mrs. Davis: "Oh, good. I was afraid you were a phony. Ok, my VISA is xxxx- xxx-xxx-xxx... " YOU: "Thank you. We will try to restore your credit limit as soon as possible. Until then, please refrain from trying to purchase merchandise on your Citibank Visa Card. Goodbye." <CLICK> Neat, huh? FOURTH- If are a really advanced Carder, you can get fancy and use a credit card formula. Great, you're saying to yourself. GIMME GIMME GIMME! Not so quick. Although several do exist, and I do have a couple of them, I am in a situation in which I am unable to reveal it. If you are particularly smart and intelligent, you can develope it yourself. Actually, it is not that hard if you have the means. MAYBE if you are good at math.... FIFTH- You may try to get credit cards from other people. (friends?) I stronly recommend against this. Usually the cards you get from other people have usually already been used and are either being watched or are already dead. SIXTH- If you have access to a Credit Union, you can call and "pull" someone else's account. (For instance, if you know someone's name and address, or social security, you can take a look at all of their loans and credit cards. ) IX. Advanced "Carding" Techniques Please, people, I beg of you -- If you have not been carding for a year or two (AT LEAST) do not read this information. It will only confuse you, and even if you understand it, it will not work as it should unless you have the experience you are lacking. So sit tight and practice with parts I-VIII. PLEASE! If, perchance, you happen to have the experience necessary to read on, then enjoy this. The following are simply a few details, hints, etc, that I just left out of the original manuscript due to my horrendous memory. Add to it if you like, and pass it a long. We all need to help each other if we are going to survive. Also, the following are in no particular order except that which they come to my head. 1) For a drop site, you can try to get fancy if need be. I have heard of empty military huts being used as well as empty condos, empty houses whose owners are on vacation, and about a zillion other stories. If you think you have come across something new, think a plan up, think it over, and think it over again. Make sure you have every step down so when you order, pick up, and make your escape, there are no problems. Think about it . . . what harm does it do to spend an hour making sure you didn't overlook something. It is a lot better than going there and getting caught. 2) Sometimes the places you order from will have an online account with a credit record bereau. (Such as TRW, CBI or Transunion) The horrifying fact is that they can verify ONLINE ANY information that you give them. So, you're busted, right? Wrong . . . If this happens, there is nothing you can do unless you have a lot of power with phones. Chances are, you don't. So play it cool and give an excuse to get off the phone. Just try somewhere else. Also, if you don't do this right, you will probably kill the credit card. X. Credit Unions Credit Unions basically are databases that hold information of its members. When you apply for a credit card, I think that the application to be a member of a Credit Union is presented also. Since almost EVERY person who owns a credit card has personal information in at least one of these services, then there is no fooling he who has access to these services. Many times in your carding career, you will run into a bussiness who has an online connection to such unions. If you try to present false information they will catch you and follow up with the appropriate actions. (That is, report the credit card you said is yours as dead, call the authorities, etc, etc.) Two of the major Credit Bureaus in the United States are TRW and CBI. As these two services hold large bases of information on its members (ie, every credit card holder in America), many unauthorized personnel often wish to gain access to them. They are accessed through a computer by calling a Bureau port and entering authorization passwords. For CBI, the passwords are in the format of nnnllnnn-**, where n=a number 0-9; where l=a letter from a-z; and where *=any character. For TRW, the passwords are in the form of lllnnnnnnnlnl. (using the same key as CBI.) As you can see from the length and complexity of these passwords, it is literally impossible to hack them. (ie, hack in the sense guess them.) So you are probably wondering how unauthorized persons gain access, huh? Well, we either have inside information or we go trashing. Thats it. Right now, however, I am not going to go any further into the subject of credit unions. Be aware that they exist, and they can help you as well as hurt you if you don't know what you are doing. At a later date I plan on devoting an entire file to the subject of credit unions, as I haven't seen an up-to-date file in years. Thats about all. I wish you all good luck, and may your adventures be safe and fun-filled. And if I EVER catch any of you giving out the credit formula (once you discover it..) I am going to personally fly over and kick your ass. (remember- I have carded tickets around the country many times. There is nothing to stop me from visiting YOUR town.. hahaha) One final note -- VISA is planning on changing their credit formula within a few years. So if you happen to be reading this many a year down the line, you will most likely discover that some of this is no longer valid. DONT BLAME ME. It was valid at the time when I compiled it. APPENDIX A ---------- Credit Card Formats ------------------- American Express -- xxxx xxxxxx xxxxx \/ \/ \/ / | \ / | \ 4 digits 6 digits 5 digits VISA -- xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx \_________________/ 4 digits each group OR -- xxxx xxx xxx xxx \/ \_________/ / 3 digits each 4 digits Mastercard -- xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx \_________________/ 4 digits each group Discover -- xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx \_________________/ 4 digits each group. APPENDIX B ---------- Credit Verifiers 1800-554-2265. Use '#' (pound) as control key. Card Type: 10 = Mastercard 20 = Visa Bank Identification: 1067 Merchant Number(s): 1411 52 IDEA:: You all know those sex lines (like 800-666-LUST), well they verify your credit card before they let you listen. You might try calling one of these and using it for a while if you have nothing else. APPENDIX C ---------- Other Things to Do 1] Plane Tickets It is relatively easy to order plane tickets using a credit card nowadays. And, for convenience, you can order over the phone. Well, look up your favorite airline, call them, and present them with the situation. You would like 2 executive class tickets to Florida [ Ed. Note - If you live in Florida, make it a trip to California ] round trip to be billed to your Visa Credit Card. Oh sure, maam. My credit card number is <blank>. My expiration date is <blank>. My Name is Joe Schmoe. I live at 223 Hard On Lane, Pubic Hair, PA. Oh, and maam, could you PLEEAZE hold the tickets at the airport for me. I will present some identification to pick them up there. Thank you. It is relatively easy to do this. But, there are a few catches. A.) Do NOT stay for any long period of time at any one place. After few days, the airline will catch on to what you have done. My suggestion is that you stay for only about 2 to 3 days. Or, if you really want to stay for a long time, get a one way ticket to wherever it is that you would like to go to. Stay however long you want to stay and take another 1 way ticket home. B.) If you plan on traveling around the country, catch one way tickets around from place to place. And please, USE DIFFERENT AIRLINES! 2] Motorcycles Again, you would be surprised at the amount of work (or lack of it) required to aquire motorcycles on other people's credit cards. I believe you can all see the advantages, so let us get down to the procedure. First, set up an order under a corporate account. You can find these sometimes if you work in a store that would use such cards. (Look over shoulders) Well, I will leave to you the methods to come upon corporate account cards. Once you have them, finish the procedure. Step 2 is to send an "employee" (yourself or a stupid friend) to pick it up. Bring proper identification that was issued from the corporation. (I suggest making your own -- Not very hard). Offer a Voice Mail Box as your bussiness number. It is very common for a high level employee to be absent from his desk. Use your imagination for the rest, and tidy it up to perfect it. 3] Travelers Cheques OKAY, I will admit this is getting out of hand, but what the hell -- For those of you very daring and in possession of a very good form of false identification (Birth Certificate?), you can easily order some American Express Traveler's Cheques for your travels around the world. The number to call is 1-800-777-7337. Using your American Express Credit Card, order some of these "babies" in another name. (For a gift..) Have them delivered as you deem appropriate. Enjoy them thouroughly. [ Ed. Note: This number is active as of 12-20-88. I don't know if these offer this service year round. Find out! ] -------------------- ----- PART TWO ----- -------------------- ************************************************************************** * Credit Cards for fun and profit! * * 8/2/84 for Southern New York * ***** ********************************************************************* The f ollowing is presented merely for your entertainment, and is NOT in any way int ended for illegal use. References are used from "Credit Card Fraud" by the Ice Man. As the Ice Man said, " The stakes are high, but 'The end justifies the means'". This is merely an alo boration of his Five-Step method of credit card fraud. Step one: Gettin g the numbers. When a credit card is used in a store, copies must be made o f the information contained on the card. These copies are usually made using carbon paper, which is thrown out after use. Some customers even go as far as having the carbons ripped up, but these are easily pieced back together. Carb ons can be found in the trash of almost every major department store in your area. Be careful with the carbons because they easily wrinkle and become unreadable. The best stores to check a re; 1) Department stores 2) Drug stores 3) Clothing stores Unfortunately, because of fraud, the NEW credit slips are CARBONLESS, whi ch means you must get your numbers by different means. Another way to get numb ers is to look someone's name and address up in the phone book, call them, and in a VERYconvincing voice say, "Hello. This is John Doe from the VISA credit-card fraud investigating office. A fraudulent charge was made with your name and address, and we need to check your card number to be sure no one has used it illegally. Do you own a VISA c ard?" If the answer is yes, then say, "Well, can you read me your number and e xpiration date so that I can check it to make sure it's safe?" If the person i s REAL STUPID, you'll have a name, number, and date in no time. Make sure you have it right, and tell them y ou'll check it and call them back. (Don't!) Step two: Recognizing cards f rom copies. Card examples: [American Express] XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX MM/Y1 thru MM/Y2 JOE SHMOE Explanation: MM/Y1 is the date the card was issue d, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold card has number s XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX and the company will back this card up for $5000.00 even if the guy is broke. [Mastercard] 5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX AAA DD -MM-YY MM/YY JOESHMOE Exp lanation: XXXX in the second row may be asked for when ordering stuff. The fir st date is when the card was new, the second when it expires. The most frequen t number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of these ca rds in circulation, but many are on the wanted lists, so check these first. [Visa] 4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X) MM/YY MM/YY*VISA JOESHMOE Expl anation: Visa is the most abundant card around, and is excepted almost everywh ere. The *VISA is sometimes re placed with BWG, or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows; 1) MM/YY*VISA V -"Prefered card" 2) MM/YY*VISA CV -"Classic card" 3) MM/YY*VISA PV -"Premier card" "Prefered" cards are backed with more money and are mush safer to use. "Classic" cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards, w ith some good backing. "Premier" cards are "Classic" with "Prefered" coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 850 0 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM credit union cards, and are risky to use in southern New York, a lthough they are usually covered for large purchases. Step three: Testi ng credit. Next you need to check if a card is stolen, or has enough credit left. There are phone numbers that stores call to check cards. Most have thes e numbers and their MERCHANT NUMBER somewhere around the phone or where they stamp the slips. It's easy to either find these and copy them, or to wait unt il they call one in. Watch what they dial and listen for the eight (usually) digit MERCHANT NUMBER. Once you c all the number, in a calm voice, read off the ACCOUNT NUMBER, MERCHANT NUMBER, AMOUNT, and EXPIRATION DATE. They will tell you if it's okay, and will give y ou an authorization number. Pretend you're writing this number down, and repea t it back to them to check it. Ignore the number completely, because it serves no real purpose. Once you do this, however, the bank removes dollars equal to the amount you told them, bec ause the card was supposedly used to buy stuff. Sometimes you can trick the op erator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some won't allow this. Remember at all times that you are suppo sed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "CANCELS". Step four: The drop. Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more t han once. The following are typical drops; 1) An empty house makes an excell ent place to send things. Send the package UPS and leave a note on the door sa ying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the bac k door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by tellin g them you want to look. Just ask for a list of twenty houses for sale and tel l them you'll check out the area. Do so, until you find one that suits your ne eds. 2) Rent-a-spot. U-HAUL r ents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space wh en the package arrives. 3) People's homes. Find someone you don't know, and h ave it sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent th e package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me? Thank you." Then pick it up later. Ice Man says this is also reliable . 4) Anything similar to post office boxes should also work. Make sure that the box cannot be traced back t o you. Step five: Using the cards. The best things to order from are magazines, or catalogs. Order at the beginning of the month. Billing is done at the end of the month, and this gives you more time to be cautious. Try to c all late in the day or at night, or on weekends, when people are tired and car eless. Memorize the number, and date, and learn how to SPELLTHE NAME. Don't tr y to sound old or mature, because this usually doesn't work. Think positive, a nd if you run into a snag, say something like "Gee! My mom left me the card number to use to buy this stuff. She forgot to leave (whatever is wrong or missing). I'll call her and ask her what it is." Don't call back for a few days, and do it at a different time wi th a different card. This works well when you screw up. Have the package sent UPS overnight air, because yo are not paying for anything. Sound positive, and have all your information ready. The Ice Man also advises not to post numbers , due to the trouble you can get the SYSOP into, and the stupidity of most of the people on boards. Insura nce companies (those blood suckers) pick up the tab on all goods bought with f raudulent credit numbers. Always remember to be CAREFUL and REASONABLE when us ing card numbers. The Lunatic Phringe BBS 312-965-3677 300/1200/Baud ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ The Disk Jockey ~ ~ ~ ~ presents: ~ ~ ~ ~ Advanced Carding XIV: ~ ~ Clarification of many credit card misconceptions ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (A 2af presentation) Preface:------- After reading files that have been put out by various groups and individuals concerning carding, credit fraud, and the credit system in general, I am finding more and more that people are basing these files on ideas, rather than knowing how the system actually works. In this article I hope to elighten you on some of the grey areas that I find most people either do not clarify, or don't know what they are talking about. I can safely say that this will be the most accurate file available dealing against credit companies, and know how they work from the insiders point of view, and I have yet to meet someone in the modem world that knows it better. This file is dedicated to all the phreaks/hacks that were busted for various reasons in the summer of 1987. Obtaining Cards: --------------- Despite popular belief, there IS a formula for visa and mastercardnumbers. All credit card account numbers are issued by on issuing company, in this case, Visa or Mastercard. Although the banks are not aware of any type of pattern to the account numbers, there IS one that can be found. I plan to publish programs in the near future that will use the various formulas for Visa, Mastercard and American Express to create valid accounts. Accounts: -------- All that is needed to successfully use a visa/mc account is the account number itself. I don't know how many times I have gotten into arguments with people over this, but this is the way it is. I'll expand on this. First of all, on all Visa/MC cards, the name means NOTHING. NOTHING AT ALL. You do not need this name and address of the cardholder to successfully use the account, at no time during authorization is the name ever needed, and with over 50,000 banks, credit unions, and various other financial institutions issuing credit cards, and only 5 major credit verification services, it is impossible to keep personal data on each cardholder.Ordering something and having it sent with the real cardholder's name is onlygoing to make things more difficult, at best. There is no way that you cantell if the card is a normal card, or a premium (gold) card merely by lookingat the account number. The only thing that can be told by the account numberis the bank that issued the card, but this again, is not needed.The expiration date means nothing. Don't believe me? Call up an authorization number and check a card and substitute 12/94, and if the account number is good, the card will pass. The expiration date is only a binary-type check to see if the card is good, (Yes/No), it is NOT a checksum-type check code that has to be matched up to the card account to be valid. Carding Stupid Things: --------------------- Whenever anyone, ANYONE tries to card something for the first time, they ALWAYS want to get something for their computer. This is nice and all, but just think that every person that has ever tried to card has tried to get a hard drive and a new modem. Everyone does it, thus every single computer company out there is aware and watching for that. If I could give every single person who ever tries to card one piece of advice, it would be to NEVER order computer equipment. I know there are a hundred guys that will argue with me about it, but common sense should tell you that the merchants are going to go out of there way to check these cards. Merchant Checking: ----------------- Since I brought up merchants checking the cards, I will review the two basic ways that almost all mail-order merchants use. Keep these in mind when designing your name, address and phone number for your drop. The Directory Assistance Cross-Reference: ---------------------------------------- This method is most popular because it is cheap, yet effective. You can usually tell these types of checks because during the actual order, you are asked questions such as "What is your HOME telephone number" and your billing address. Once they have this information, they can call directory assistance for your area code, say 312, and ask "May I have the phone number for a Larry Jerutis at 342 Stonegate Drive?" Of course, the operator should give a number that matches up with the one that you gave them as your home number. If it doesn't, the merchant knows that something is up. Even if it is an unlisted number, the operator will say that there is a Jerutis at that address, but the telephone number is non-published, which is enough to satisfy the merchant. If a problem is encountered, the order goes to a special pile that is actually called and the merchant will talk to the customer directly. Many merchants have policy to not ship at all if the customer can not provide a home phone number that corresponds with the address. The Call Back: ------------- This deals with the merchant calling you back to verify the order. This does not imply, however, that you can stand by a payphone and wait for them to call back. Waiting by a payphone is one of the stupidest things I have ever heard of, being that few, if any, places other than the pizza place will call back immediately like that. What most places will do is process your order, etc, and then call you, sometimes it's the next day, sometimes that night. It is too difficult to predict when they will call back, but if they don't get a hold of you, or only get a busy, or an answering machine, they won't send the merchandise until they speak with you voice. This method is difficult to defeat, but fortunately, due to the high cost of phone bills, the directory assistance method is preferred. Billing Address: --------------- This should ALWAYS be the address that you are having the stuff sent to. One of the most stupidest things that you could do to botch up a carding job would be to say something like "Well, I don't want it sent to my house, I want it sent to....", or "Well, this is my wifes card, and her name is....". These methods may work, but for the most part, only rouse suspicion on you. If the order sounds pretty straightforward, and there isn't any unusual situations, it will better the chances of the order going through. Drop Houses:----------- These are getting harder and harder to come by for the reasons that people are more careful then before, and that UPS is smarter, also. Your best bet is to hit somebody that just moved, and I mean JUST moved, being that UPS will not know that there is nobody at the house anymore if it is within, say, a week of their moving. It's getting to the point where in some areas, UPS won't even leave the stuff on the doorstep, due to liability on their part of doing that. The old "Leave the stuff in the shrubs while I am at work" note won't work, most people are smart enough to know that something is odd, and will more than likely leave the packages with the neighbors before they shove that hard drive in the bushes. Many places, such as Cincinatti Microwave (maker of the Escort and Passport radar detectors) require a signature when the package is dropped off, making it that much harder. Best Bet: -------- Here is the method that I use that seems to work well, despite it being a little harder to match up names and phone numbers. Go to an apartment building and go to the top floor. The trashier the place, the better. Knock on the door and ask if "Bill" is there. Of course, or at least hopefully, there will be no Bill at that address. Look surprised, then say "Well, my friend Bill gave me this address as being his." The occupants will again say "Sorry, but there is no Bill here...". Then, say that "I just moved here to go to school, and I had my parents sent me a bunch of stuff for school here, thinking that this was Bill's place." They almost always say "Oh Boy...". Then respond with "Well, if something comes, could you hold on to it for me, and I will come by in a week and see if anything came?" They will always say something to the effect of "Sure, I guess we could do that...". Thank them a million times for helping you out, then leave. A few days after your stuff comes, drop by and say, "Hi, I'm Jim, did anything come for me?". If everything was cool, it should have. The best thing to do with this is only order one or two small things, rather than an AT system with an extra monitor. People feel more comfortable about signing for something small for someone, rather than something big, being that most people naturally think that the bigger it is, the more expensive it is. This is the best method that I know of, the apartment occupants willusually sign for the stuff, and be more than happy to help you out. Advice: ------ The thing that I can never stress enough is to not become greedy. Sure, the first shipment may come in so easy, so risk-free that you feel as if you can do it forever. Well, you can't. Eventually, if you do it frequently enough, you will become the subject of a major investigation by the local authorities if this becomes a real habit. Despite anything that anyone ever tells you about the police being "stupid and ignorant", you better reconsider. The police force is a VERY efficient organization once they have an idea as towho is committing these crimes. They have the time and the money to catch you.Don't do it with friends. Don't even TELL friends that you are doing it. This is the most stupid, dangerous thing that you could do. First of all, I don't care how good of friends anyone may be, but if a time came that you hated eachother, this incident could be very bad for you. What could be even worse is a most common scenario: You and a friend get a bunch of stuff, very successfully. You tell a few friends at school, either you or him have to tell only one person and it gets all over. Anyways, there is ALWAYS some type of informant in every high-school. Be it a teacher, son or daughter of a cop, or whatever, there is always a leak in every high school. The police decide to investigate, and find that it is becoming common knowledge that you and/or your friend have ways of getting stuff for "free" via the computer. Upon investigation, they call in your friend, and tell him that they have enough evidence to put out a warrant for his arrest, and that they might be able to make a deal with him. If he gives a complete confession, and be willing to testify against your in court, they will let him off with only paying there stitution (paying for the stuff you got). Of course, just about anyone is going to think about themselves, which is understandable, and you will get theraw end of the deal. Don't let anyone ever tell you that as a minor, you won't get in any trouble, because you can and will. If you are really uncooperative, they may have you tried as an adult, which would really put you up the creek, and even as a juvenile, you are eligible to receive probation, fines, court costs, and just about anything else the judge wants to do with you. All this boils down to is to not tell anyone anything, and try not to do it with anyone.Well, that should about wrap up this file. I hope this clears up somemisconceptions about carding. I am on many boards, and am always open to anycomments/suggestions/threats that anyone might have. Good luck. ANNOUNCEMENTS: INTRODUCTION: There are many aspects to carding, only a few of which will be discussed in this file. There might be some more files on this subject by me if there's positive feedback about it. Most of these are found out by experience, but some stuff I've just heard about, but never tried. Enough with this, on with the file... THE BASICS: Make sure you PLAN AHEAD! If you are familiar with everything, you won't run AS MUCH of a risk. Find a good drop house (discussed later in file) and get a good card! The best companies to order things from are the ones in the back of computer magazines, or almose any small business, because they don't have the knowhow/ability/equiptment to usually realize what's happening. As in the case of the Sharper Image Co., their computer system is down alot of the time, and their employes will tell you with a little proding. If that is the case, ABUSE THEM! They only check to see if there is enough credit on the card. One thing to remember, NEVER HANG UP ONE QUESTION! Just say something like, I'm not sure, it's my wife's credit card or try to wing it. But hanging up is instant death to the card. PLACES TO AVOID: Computer companies are the hardest to card from, because of one reason... Johnny Rodent (you know, the guy with the Vic-20 and 50 Baud modem) gets a card and decides he want to get something, and what is that something you ask? Well, computer equiptment of course! So the companies have protected them- selves. Martial Arts/Weopontry places are also hard to card from... I've gotten hell from some of those places trying to get stuff! Electronics places always tend to be hard to card from, for the same reason as the computer companies. They've been burnt too much. BYPASSING TRICKY QUESTIONS: One of the more tricky questions you might get from a pushy operator is a request for a drivers license. Now that's just great if you stole some guys wallet, but most of the time you just get the number, not even the actual card. My favorite answer is to say I was arrested for drunk driving and my license was revoked, they almost always by that. Sometimes they also want a work phone number, the best thing to say is that you are either unemployed, or work at home. And a good voice phone number is one like for a law offices facsimilie Machine, and tell'em you use your Fax every once in a while. If you've attempted to card something from a company, had it go bad, and then tried again, only to find out that they saved the address and won't ship it, a good method around that is to give ANYONE's address (even your schools) and then call UPS and tell them to forward all packages for John Doe to your drop house. If the UPS guy requires a signature, then just leave a note on the door saying something like you work a swing shift and can't always be home, but you take full responsibility and for them just to leave it in the back. FINDING THE PERFECT HOUSE: The prime house is one which is vacant. A good way to find one is to either drive around looking for one, call up reality offices and ask for one, or go to condo's and find one that doesn't look lived in. Once you have located a suitable spot, watch it and the neighborhood for about 1 week or more, watch the traffic most of all and the activity of the residents. Now the hard parts done! PICKING UP THE ITEMS: Do not let the packages stay at the house more than 2 days! If the UPS guy comes back with more, he will notice something is wrong and take ALL the packages. The bast way to get it is to go around during the day for about an hour and watch the activity, if everything looks fine then wait til dusk and go pick it up. If something is wrong, like people are watching you REALLY closely, and no kids are playing in the area, then don't ever go back to the house. Better safe then sorry! CHECKING CARDS: All credit card verification numbers deduct the money from the credit. Then they wait for a letter from the merchant to say what they bought. When that letter doesn't arrive, they assume one of two things, either the store messed up, or the merchant ID has been hacked. But they only think the previous if there are ALOT of cancelations like that. Here are some valid verification numbers, but no codes, so hackaway... VISA/MASTERCARD - 1800-554-1111 BANK NUMBER - xxxx MERCHANT ID - xxxxxxxxxxx VISA/MASTERCARD - 1800-554-2265 CARD TYPE - 10/MC 20/VISA BANK ID - xxxx Here's one 1067 MERCHANT ID - xx 52 AMERICAN EXPRESS - 1800-528-2121 MERCHANT ID - xxxxxxxxxx DISCOVER CARD - 1800-233-5656 MERCHANT ID - xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx THE CREDIT CARD: Of all the cards, Discover is the big loser, and if you get a company that accepts it, then USE IT! It will almost always work! VISA's are my personal favorites, although MC's are a fairly close second. Credit Cards from Over- seas are also REAL good and you will get everything you order with those. The best country for cards is Australia by far... Alot of carders there. Here is the basic setup of most of the cards... NAME LENGTH EX. DATE VISA 4xxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx/xx or 4xxx xxx xxx xxx xx/xx MC 5xxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx/xx AMEX 3xxxx xxxx xxxxxx xx/xx DISCOVER 6xxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx/xx Most of the time the Experation date is pretty worthless and is only used to make sure you don't use the card past the date they set. You can get away with saying anything, but it's always better to try to get the correct one. Names are also as if'y as experation dates... It's always best to use the real name. FUCK-A-CARD: If you just want to fuck up a card, and it's a Discover, call up the Discover Card validation number and ask for a "Code-10" authorization (wow, just like James Bond!). Then just tell'em something like you are suspicious that it's a stolen card. CONCLUSION: I hope this file helps you in you future exploits in the High-Risk world of carding. No matter what anyone says, always expect the worst when carding, and most of all, be careful! When someone says "Oh yea! I check it myself." always double-check, because it's your ass in the end, not his! If you have and questions or comments, or a suggestion for a new text file, then leave me Feedback on my board (Shadows of Iga). I'd like to say an extra 'Hi' to both Captain Zap and The White Rider for keeping me informed of what was going on while I was gone (Shit is felt like forever)... Be watching for these other files from me... Robbing Houses I Robbing Houses II Bic Balistics Where to get Weopons