Let's continue our discussion of the "taste of America" by looking into what types of foods are daily fare and what types are merely fads. For this kind of tour we need to look at every region of our country. There are foods which have stayed popular since what seems to many of us time immemo- rial. Examples are such standards as hamburgers and fried chicken. French fried potatoes would also fit this category. But we also should note that the standard hamburger has been adorned by unlimited variations of garnish, cooking styles, sizes, etc. The same can be said of chicken. In both of these instances the prolifera- tion of the fast food choices with their hand-sized products have by themselves contributed to a "national taste of America." The fads can be viewed from a very different viewpoint. In this instance we have items such as crepes, quiche, and blackened fish making a strong showing for a limited time and then being replaced with other fads. The fads hold one's imagination for a time until a new and more clever idea comes along. A long-held fad that comes to mind is our infatuation with the French bottled water "Perrier." By now it is obvious to everyone who has bothered to look and listen that the success of "Perrier" was a marketing coup rather than a reflection of any superior attributes unique to that product. To be able to discuss when a new "taste" is developing, we should read the food columns and food sections of our local newspapers and our local, regional and national magazines. For instance, many food columnists and writers are now proclaiming that "tapas," the small bite-sized appetiz- ers which had their origin in Spain, are about to be the "in" fad. Other ways to get clues concerning what will be the new fad are to watch local TV food shows and look for announcements of cooking schools in the local media. And don't overlook new cookbooks that are being published. Be aware that cookbooks as a category are the second most popular type of books in this country, after the Bible. In a previous column I wrote that a good meal begins with a good soup. Last time I wrote about a main course or entree recipe. Now I would like to introduce to you a dessert. I believe that a smashing dessert makes the entire meal a memorable experience. Recipe No. 6 - Fresh Peach Cobbler Yield - 8 five-ounce portions Ingredients: 3 cups of sliced fresh peaches (24 ounces by volume) Use frozen peaches as an alternative. 1 cup of granulated sugar (8 ounces by volume) 1/4 teaspoon of almond extract 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel Crust: 1 1/2 Cups sifted enriched flour (12 ounces by volume) 3 teaspoons baking powder 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup shortening (2.66 ounces by volume) 1/2 cups milk (4 ounces by volume) 1 egg, well beaten (large grade A) Procedure: Part A: The Crust 1. Mix together flour, baking powder, sugar and salt and sift. 2. Add to this mixture the milk and egg. 3. Stir until mixture is barely moistened. 4. Cut in shortening until mixture is like coarse crumbs. Part B: The Peaches 1. Arrange peaches in greased 8"x8" by 2" deep cake pan. 2. Mix sugar, almond extract, lemon peel and juice. 3. Sprinkle this mixture over peaches Part C: Put Together 1. Spread crust over peaches 1a. (Optional step) sprinkle over crust a tablespoon of brown sugar mixed with 1/2 tablespoon cinnamon. 2. Bake at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 35 minutes. (C. "GUS" KATSIGRIS operates Crackers restaurant in Dallas and is director of the Food and Hospitality Service Institute at El Centro College. He twice has been named Outstanding Restauranteur of Texas by the Texas Restaurant Association.)