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- From: sjm1@eng.cam.ac.uk (Stephen Mounsey)
- Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
- Subject: Re: fresh spalded sugar maple -- turn green, or dry first??
- Message-ID: <1993Jan27.125700.29440@eng.cam.ac.uk>
- Date: 27 Jan 93 12:57:00 GMT
- References: <C1E241.GDq@news.cso.uiuc.edu> <16B611205E.EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu>
- Organization: cam.eng
- Lines: 29
-
- EPLUS17@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu (Richard Engelbrecht-Wiggans) writes:
-
- >In article <C1E241.GDq@news.cso.uiuc.edu>
- >bruce@uxc.cso.uiuc.edu (Bruce Krueger) writes:
- >
- >>ok, the postings on lathes and the extensive speculation re the unknown
- >>shoulda-been-maple got me to wondrin'...
- >>
- >>I've got a pile (rough guess, 5-800 lbs.) of five green sections of a
- >
- >> I'm wondering whether to let the wood
- >>dry first (for how many years/decades), and if so, should I paint/wax/
- >>varnish the ends to prevent, or at least retard, checking, or isn't this
- >>as much of a problem with sugar maple sections as it would be with some
- >>of the other hardwoods I have experience with (oak, hickory,...)??
- >>
- >I got some green locust when the Valentines ice storm a couple
- >of years back claimed a neighbor's tree. I turned about a dozen
- >10-12" blanks immediately and saved several 6' long logs for later.
- >I'm no expert on the lathe, and my taste runs toward the clunky...
- >my bowls had wall thicknesses of about 1/2". Two years later, they
- >are no longer round. A few months ago, I chopped one of my logs
-
- If you leave enough wall thickness and a means of re-chucking you
- can always turn them green then re-true them after they've warped.
-
- Or you can claim that you _intended_ them to warp for artistic effect.
-
- -Stephen.
-