NetNews Usenet Archive 1993 #3/NN_1993_3.iso/spool/rec/woodwork/10132

Internet Message Format | 1993-01-25 | 3.5 KB

Path: sparky!uunet!usc!sdd.hp.com!swrinde!emory!cs.utk.edu!memstvx1!biggersc
From: [e-mail]
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Table Saw Experiences
Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
Date: 25 Jan 93 00:03:13 -0600
References: <[e-mail]> <[e-mail]> <[e-mail]>
Organization: Memphis State University
Lines: 65

In article <[e-mail]>, [e-mail] (Chris Lewis) writes:
> In article <[e-mail]> [e-mail] (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>Steve Bellovin writes:
>>>In article <[e-mail]>, [e-mail] (G. Paul Houtz) writes:
>>>>   The magnetic switch is not the solution for your problem, Steve.
>
>>>>   You problem is the location of the switch, not the way it functions.
>
>>>I understand how it works.  My previous posting was a bit too brief; let
>>>me explain a bit more.
>
>>   Again, I feel the need to point out that a magnetic switch is not
>>   necessary for this.
>
> Steven also wants the advantage of the saw staying off if there's a power
> failure, then a restore.  It's independent of the switch location/size
> issue.  However, since you can't do his "big button" trick with the toggle
> switch on this unit, he can kill two birds with one stone - build
> the magnetic switch with two push-buttons, one to start the unit, the
> other to stop it.  Furthermore, the magnetic switch arrangement allows
> you to use normal momentary contact pushbuttons - mechanical latching
> pushbuttons are failure-prone (or rather expensive) in this sort of
> application.
>
> Restated: he'd have to replace his switch anyways to put in a big
> panic stop button.  He can double his functionality by using a magnetic
> switch unit.
>
> As far as cost goes, doing a magnetic switch for a table saw should
> be relatively easy - mount the components inside the saw (preferably
> in a weatherproof box of some sort) plus a small hole for the reset
> pushbutton.  Given that you obtain a good quality properly rated
> relay ($20-$30?) the total cost should be well under $50.  While
> you could probably make a cheaper one with a triac, the reliability
> of a relay would be superior in this application.
>
> I'd leave the original switch in the saw as the security kill switch
> (presuming that the contractor's saw allows you to detach the toggle
> like most of Delta's other tools).
> --
> Chris Lewis; [e-mail]; Phone: Canada 613 832-0541
> Psroff 3.0 info: [e-mail]
> Ferret list: [e-mail]


>>>I also have the problem with switch on the Delta Contractor's Table
>>>saw!  I can never find the crazy little switch when I need to get
>>>the saw off fast!  Sort of dangerous to say the least.
>>>
>>>Is it possible that Delta means for "us" to put something on the
>>>flanges of the switch?  It is not what I would call a standard
>>>toggle switch since it has the flanges sticking up on both sides
>>>of the switch.  The flanges really hamper getting the switch
>>>turned off.  I wish someone would come up with a good suggestion
>>>on how to deal with the Delta "hidden switch."
>>>
>>>I read where several had had trouble with the paint coming off the
>>>the top of the table.  I haven't had this trouble.  However, I did
>>>give the top of mine table a good coating of wax as soon as I had
>>>it put together.
>>>
>>>Here is hoping that someone will come up with a good suggestion on
>>>how to get the saw turned off quickly....easily....and safely!
>>>