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- From: jtod_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (John "Jeep" Todd)
- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Subject: Re: Jeep stuck, frozen puddle, how to free up?
- Message-ID: <1993Jan27.005623.22157@galileo.cc.rochester.edu>
- Date: 27 Jan 93 00:56:23 GMT
- References: <1993Jan26.192303.2396@macc.wisc.edu>
- Sender: news@galileo.cc.rochester.edu
- Distribution: usa
- Organization: University of Rochester - Rochester, New York
- Lines: 83
- Nntp-Posting-Host: uhura.cc.rochester.edu
-
- In <1993Jan26.192303.2396@macc.wisc.edu> pburke@vms.macc.wisc.edu (Peter Burke, MIC, 608-263-7744) writes:
-
- >My friend got himself stuck in a pretty deep puddle two days ago. In the
- >meantime the puddle has turned to solid ice. Teh front of the vehicle
- >is about 15" under water/ice, the rear - well - his 31" tires barely
- >stick out of the ice. The ice is only 1/2" thick, but still enough to
- >keep the thing in there. Yesterday we pulled only very lightly and tore
- >his bumper off - oops. Now: what is a smarter approach? We are
- >thinking of first using a sledgehammer to crush the ice, then pull with
- >two trucks. Is there a smarter approach? There is no way to get a
- >tow-truck near this, by the way. almost got my Toyota stuck just going
- >there....
-
- >Any seasoned four-wheelers out there?
-
- Sure thang. Hmm.... lessee, you want to spend as little time in 35 degree
- icewater as possible, I guess, huh? Well, first thing is to dress very
- warmly (really? Tough one, eh?) and start a huge fire on the bank of the
- puddle. This will be to prevent hypothermia. Then: jump around and break
- all of the ice, of course. Here are some tricks that I have picked up in my
- various "worst-stuck" situations:
-
- 1. Get a winch. This is a nice little perk for going off-road, in that it
- becomes very difficult to get stuck, as long as there is solid material
- within 100-200ft of the front of your vehicle. If you don't have a winch...
-
- 2. Get a tow strap. This is different than a chain because it uses a
- stretch-and-snap method of pulling, like a rubber band. Chain will just
- become instantly rigid at pull-point, causing damage to both vehicles if
- a)one is an immovable object, or b)one is an unstoppable force. Snap-straps
- are much better. Attach through one of (or better, both) the holes in the
- front of the frame of the Jeep. Attach to a LARGE frame member in the
- center of the Toy. Or perhaps a tow hitch, but I don't know about the
- strength of tow hitches.
-
- 3. If the Jeep has "wagon wheels" (eg: having holes in the steel parts of
- the wheels that you can see through) put thick rope through the holes,
- weaving it around the rubber part of the tire. Cheap tire chains! You
- might also try some version of putting a 2x4 in the combination to provide
- extra traction, but make sure that it will clear all fenders/steering
- assemblies if it makes a revolution.
-
- 4. Buy some cheapo come-alongs. These are hand-held winches that only pull
- a few feet for a few hundred pounds, but four of them does a lot. You might
- try attaching two to the corners of the frame, and attaching the Toy to the
- middle of the frame,with the two smaller forces stabilizing and aiding the
- primary force. Attach the solid ends to trees, big rocks, other trucks that
- may not want to get wet, etc etc. Also try attaching them to series of
- concrete forming rods at angles. Those forming rods are great! About 3.5ft
- long, and 3/4 inch in diameter, they just will not be bent by anything short
- of a Mack truck, and they're (almost) free! Just give a concrete foreman
- $20 for 10 of them, and you'll be very happy. Hammer them into the ground
- at about a 40 degree angle, in a straight line with the angle of the force
- that will be applied. Tie them all together with very stout rope, or do as
- I have been meaning to do and make short steel cable lengths with eyes on
- both end, so that everything is ready made. I've found that burying tires
- and winching to them might work, but not reliable, and you have to bury
- those tires REALLY deep so they won't pull out. This also leads to the
- problem of the cable wanting to make a straight line between winch and load,
- causing it to cut through the ground and generally not work
-
- 5. Get a lot of trees/brush/bricks/rocks/firewood and jam it under the
- tires while doing all of the above. Make sure that whatever you are using
- has enough traction(eg: don't use round river rocks, ace.) and has enough
- mass to provide a road out of the mess. If you think you've got enough
- stuff under the tires, you have exactly half of what you need. Try some
- more before even starting the engine. You only usually get one chance with
- that type of route, so make the very best of it, since all the junk gets
- slimy and pushed down into the mud after the first try.
-
- NOTE: When using cabling or other winching/snatching method, stand very
- clear of any area that a cable or strap may snap to if one mounting point
- should break. You don't want to have a winch hook or tow bar impaled in
- your forehead. When dealing with the entire force of an engine compressed
- into a thin strand, you'd be amazed at the damage it can do to people and
- things if released all at once.
-
- Good luck. You'll need it, but you'll get it eventually. :)
- --
- John Todd | University of Rochester, Rochester NY USA Earth Milky Way
- CPU 276686 | "What took you so long?" - Connor MacLeod "Highlander"
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