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- Path: sparky!uunet!munnari.oz.au!ariel.ucs.unimelb.EDU.AU!ucsvc.ucs.unimelb.edu.au!lugb!news
- Newsgroups: sci.electronics
- Subject: Re: Speakers loose tweeters and filter elements
- Message-ID: <1992Dec29.033120.530@lugb.latrobe.edu.au>
- From: MATGBB@LURE.LATROBE.EDU.AU (BYRNES,Graham)
- Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1992 03:31:20 GMT
- Sender: news@lugb.latrobe.edu.au (USENET News System)
- References: <1517@chorus.chorus.fr>
- Organization: La Trobe University
- In-Reply-To: ngk@opera.chorus.fr's message of 22 Dec 92 15:42:05 GMT
- X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24
- Lines: 104
-
-
- In <1517@chorus.chorus.fr> ngk@opera.chorus.fr writes:
-
- ..>
- >
- > Hi netters,
- >
- > I have a pair of JAMO-300 speakers. Their specification is:
- >
- > - 8 Ohm impedance.
- > - 300 W / each.
- > - 4 ways SP system with passive filters.
- >
- > I use them with a Samick SM-6000 Stereo Power Amplifier (250W/channel)
- > for dancing parties.
- > The problem is that I often have the tweeters and/or some capacitors of the
- > filters broken, but never the other elements. I think that the filters for
- > the broken tweeters are not well designed or it misses some sort of protection.
- > So I'm wondering if any one can tell me how to avoid such a situation for the
- > next time I use them (i.e. an active/passive protection circuit or a
- > modification in the filters).
- >
- > I give you here the diagram of one speaker system :
- >
- >
- > +-------+------------+----------------+------------------------+
- > | | | | |
- > | | C1 -+- C2 -+- +---+---+
- > | | -+- -+- | |
- > | |-| | | + | | +
- > | | | |-| +----+ |\+-+ +-+/|
- > | L1 | | L2 | | | | T1 | | | T2| | |
- > + | | | | | C3 -+- |-| |/+-+ +-+\|
- > o-----+ |-| | | -+- | | + | | +
- > | |-| | L3| | +---+---+
- > To PA | | + | | | |
- > o--+ | | |\+-+ |-| |-|
- > - | +----+ +----+----+ T3 | | | | R1 | |
- > | | | | | | |/+-+ | |-|
- > | | | | |-| | + | | |
- > | + | | + | L4| | | +----+ |
- > | |\+-+ -+-C4 |\+-+ | | -+-C5 | | |
- > | B1| | | -+- | | | | | -+- |-| |-| C6 -+-
- > | |/+-+ | M1|/+-+ |-| | R2| | | |R3 -+-
- > | + | | + | | | |-| |-| |
- > | | | | | | | | |
- > | | | | | | | | |
- > +-----+----+-------+----+----+-----------+----+-------------------+
- >
- >
- > all capacitors are bipolar chemical capacitors
- > C1 = 10uF, C2 = 3.3uF, C3 = 4.7uF, C4 = 22uF, C5 = 10uF, C6 = 1uF
- >
- > Li are air/iron core selves (inductance) values are unknown.
- >
- > all resistors are winding/carbon 10W resistors.
- >
- > R1 = 12 Ohms, R2 = 10 Ohms, R3 = kind of varistor (ceramic disk form)
- >
- > B1 = bommer, M1 = medium speaker, T3 = medium-tweeter, T1=T2 = tweeters
- >
- >
- > What happened:
- >
- > T3/C3 are broken very often.
- > T1 and T2 eventually.
- > M1/C5 sometimes.
- > B1 never broken.
- >
- >
- > Thank you very much for any advice.
- >
- >
- > Gia-Khanh Nguyen (ngk@chorus.fr)
- >
- Well, my first advice would be to turn down the volume a wee bit. However
- there os one other possibility. It could be that the caps are dying first,
- which would guarantee the demise of the tweeter(s). Bi-polar electros
- have a relatively high dissipation factor, so at the levels you are running
- them, it is concievable they are running too hot. Why not replace the smaller
- ones with polyester film types? Even 10uF greencaps are cheap compared
- to replacing tweeters every week 8-).
-
- Next, it could be worth the following: borrow a cro, hook it across your amp
- output, and see at what level it really starts to clip. If you are running
- from a cd player, you should be able to find out its max output, and determine
- at what volume knob position that will cause clipping. Then put a mark saying
- "Il est defendu sur peine d'assasination de faire tourner l'attenuateur au-dela
- de ce point".
-
- By the way, do you have any hearing left? any neighbours?
- Bon chance,
- Graham
- >
- >
- >
- >
- >
- >
- >
- >
- >
- >
- >
-