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- Path: sparky!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!natinst.com!news.dell.com!gator!inland!bloom
- From: bloom@inland.com
- Newsgroups: rec.models.rc
- Subject: Re: First Trainer Questions
- Message-ID: <1992Dec21.081522.2551@inland.com>
- Date: 21 Dec 92 08:15:22 CST
- References: <1992Dec20.170241.973@bnr.ca>
- Organization: Inland Steel Company; East Chicago, IN
- Lines: 42
-
- In article <1992Dec20.170241.973@bnr.ca>, martyg@bnr.ca (Martin Gallant) writes:
- >
- > I have narrowed down the engine selection to the OS.40FP (~$70) and the
- > OS.46SF (~$140), the latter strongly recommended by my local hobby shop.
- > Do I need to be messing around with ball-bearing engines for my first
- > plane, or is a plain bushing motor adequate? I am prepared to spend
- > whatever time is required for break-in on a test bench.
-
- There are plenty of other engines on the market that cost less than the
- OS .46 SF and perform just as well. I like the Enya .45 CXTV or the
- Supertigre .45 ABC; both are about $20-30 cheaper than the OS .46 SF-
- ABN. A bushing motor like the OS .40 FP has much less power (about the
- same power as strong .25" motor) than an equivalent ball bearing motor.
- Your trainer may not need more power than the FP provides, but you can
- always throttle a strong engine back. If you're short on power, you
- can't do anything but buy another engine. Strong engines are an added
- safety margin on take-off. You can make steeper climbs without stalling
- the plane. Weak engines are much more critical on needle valve settings.
- If the power is marginal, any change in the needle setting may reduce
- the power enough to cause a stall and crash. Also, there is no more
- messing around with ball-bearing motors than there is with bushing
- motors. All you do is run them dry at the end of the day, and give
- them a dose of Marvel Mystery Oil. As for break-in, with a good
- strong .45 ABC ball-bearing engine, all you do is put it in the plane
- and fly it - running in a rich 2-cycle.
-
-
- >
- > Coming from an automotive background, I am quite concerned about running
- > an engine without any type of air filtration. My club files on a dusty
- > grass field. I know there are commercially available filters on the
- > market, but these represent a compromise between reliability and
- > longevity. Should I bother with these, even just to satisfy my
- > paranoia?
-
-
- While a filter can't hurt engine longevity, it can make starting more
- difficult because you can't easily put your finger over the venturi
- to choke the engine. In addition the filters tend to get wet with
- fuel that is spit from the carb, and this restricts air flow which
- reduces power and can upset the mixture adjustment. I used a filter
- on my first R/C engine, but no longer use them.
-