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- Path: sparky!uunet!paladin.american.edu!gatech!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!cnorman
- From: cnorman@weber.ucsd.edu (Cyndi Norman)
- Newsgroups: rec.gardens
- Subject: Re: Preparing Clay Soil for Planting
- Date: 3 Jan 1993 01:05:36 GMT
- Organization: U.C.S.D. Department of Communication
- Lines: 69
- Message-ID: <1i5e50INN75j@network.ucsd.edu>
- References: <1992Dec29.184101.19659@gvl.unisys.com>
- NNTP-Posting-Host: weber.ucsd.edu
-
- In article <1992Dec29.184101.19659@gvl.unisys.com> garyp@rmtc.paramax.com
- (Gary Palangian [RMTC/ISP]) writes:
-
- > I have read a lot of books that talk
- >about amending the soil with peat or manure. They say
- >to add in up to 50% of organic material and till it
- >under anywhere from 6" to 24". These books also make
- >it sound like you do this in a weekend.
-
- That's about it. Of course, the time it takes depends a lot on how big an
- area you are doing and how strong you and your back are.
-
- I live in San Diego and moved in August to a (rented) house with a yard.
- The soil is mostly clay around here (thus the famous adobe buildings).
- Also, about 6 inches down you hit hardpan. My front yard consists of two
- large raised beds plus other planting areas along the sides.
-
- Fortunately for me, my roommate is strong, owns a pick-up truck he doesn't
- mind getting dirty, and likes to work soil. About 20 minutes east of us is
- a landfill that gives away free mulch (shredded plant material) and a horse
- farm that has piles of manure (well-rotted even) free for the taking. We
- have filled up many many truck loads of both substances (partly for the
- place we used to live in when we were neighbors and shared a garden).
-
- My roommate did the following: 1) added a truckload of mulch and a
- truckload of manure to the soil; 2) dug it in with a shovel and/or spading
- fork. After the first of the winter rains, the soil was fantastic and
- everything I've put in so far has thrived. Plants I have added to undug
- soil haven't done very well but the existing plants are okay. We also top
- dress the soil with manure and mulch. As an aside, I use organic methods
- only and prefer losing a few plants to using chemicals (not only are they
- bad for the environment as a whole but I am severely chemically sensitive
- and can't risk getting ill).
-
- >Well I would like to take advantage of the time I
- >have to amend the soil properly. I figure the
- >extra time should allow me to 1) Do a better job,
- >and/or 2) Do a cheaper job. So, can anybody help
- >with advice on preparing soil for planting
- >a year down the road?
-
- I'm really not an expert but I have a few tips that your timing will help
- with.
-
- Don't work the soil when it is too wet or too dry. You can destroy the
- texture and mess up plantings for a long time. With clay, the worst thing
- is if you work the soil too wet--it will turn into material for bricks.
-
- The best thing about taking your time is that you can choose your plants
- slowly so you find just what you want and not what you have to settle for.
- You can also grow things from seed or small seedlings instead of buying
- larger plants.
-
- Also, if you need to change the soil pH, you will need a few months to get
- it right (not that most plants care all *that* much if you are close).
-
- My garden area is only worked down about 6-8 inches. This isn't great I
- know but I'm planting mostly plants that live in clay anyway. Taking more
- time to dig deeper means two weekends instead of one (unless you need power
- tools). I will have to figure out something when I start planting root
- vegetables. I am also going to buy lots of plants in pots (since it's a
- rented house).
-
- Good luck...
- --
- __________________________________________________________________________
- "There's nothing wrong with me. Maybe there's Cyndi Norman
- something wrong with the universe." (ST:TNG) cnorman@ucsd (bitnet)
- ______________________________________________ cnorman@ucsd.edu (internet)
-