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- From: grego@bit.UUCP (Greg Sanguinetti)
- Newsgroups: rec.audio
- Subject: Re: More subwoofer amplification & power
- Message-ID: <542@bit.UUCP>
- Date: 22 Dec 92 19:16:02 GMT
- Article-I.D.: bit.542
- References: <42789@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>
- Reply-To: grego@bit.UUCP (Greg Sanguinetti)
- Organization: BIT Portland, OR
- Lines: 47
-
- In article <42789@sdcc12.ucsd.edu> mtrostle@sdcc13.ucsd.edu (Mark Trostler) writes:
- > Having determined that my 12V/2.5amp supply is totally
- >unacceptable to power a 140W mono amp (which is a car stereo amp
- >BTW) I decided to look into deep-cycle batteries (used by boats and
- >RV's - they recharge all the way & last longer) and just recharge it
- >when not in use. At my local NAPA dealer those go for $70 minimum,
-
- Not to mention that they are VERY dangerous to charge indoors!
-
- >however, while browsing the battery rechargers I found one that puts
- >out 12V/10amps for $29! Can I use this for a power supply instead
- >of a battery?? I suppose it would suck down major wattage from my
-
- Battery chargers are not well filtered. They don't really have to be
- since the battery itself makes a good filter capacitor. They are awful
- choices for audio supplies. You can build a supply yourself. You need
- a large transformer, easy to find at supply stores, capable of providing
- about 18v AC at say 15A. Get a giant bridge, also available surplus.
- While at the surplus store pick up some 16+ volt power supply filter
- caps (10,000 mfd total, or more). Several sources (Moto, National, NTE)
- make 12volt 10 amp three terminal regulators. Get one in a TO3 case and
- heat sink it to the max. See National's linear databook for suggestions
- on paralleling regulators and/or using 3055's (or similar) and other
- current increasing schemes. I've built some Godzilla 12v supplies this
- way. I had the parts and some extra car amps to play with. It all works
- but is a tremendously inefficient way to generate watts to your speakers.
- It is a good way to empty out some boxes from the parts room B^)
-
- Much better solution: Get a regular amp from a used HiFi dealer or paper.
-
- >above what the amp needs to run normally, so the 10amps should be
- >okay it seems (120watts max.) This all seems like it'd work to me,
- >what am I missing?
- derating for inefficiencies in linear supply plus DC-DC converter in amps.
- 120w goes to something like 220w (target) implies something like 18A @12v.
- But that will only be needed for peaks and if you don't crank it all the way
- and have plenty of mfd's in the filters and the regs are current limitted
- and well heatsinked and.... you should be ok. The regulators will shut
- down and you'll know when to crank the volume down!
-
- -grego
-
- --
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Grego Sanguinetti, Bipolar Integrated Technology | Water, water everywhere,
- grego@bit.uucp or grego%bit%ogi.cse.edu | but I'd rather drink
- or bit!grego@ogi.cse.edu or ...!ogicse!bit!grego | beer.
-