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- Xref: sparky comp.text.desktop:506 rec.photo:22299
- Newsgroups: comp.text.desktop,rec.photo
- Path: sparky!uunet!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!cujo!cc.curtin.edu.au!zrepachol
- From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
- Subject: Re: Photo Scanning
- Message-ID: <1992Dec22.004028.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>
- Lines: 46
- Sender: news@cujo.curtin.edu.au (News Manager)
- Organization: Curtin University of Technology
- References: <1992Dec17.161309.10151@ircam.fr>
- Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 15:40:28 GMT
-
- In article <1992Dec17.161309.10151@ircam.fr>, francis@ircam.fr (Joseph Francis) writes:
- > I have some questions for desktop gurus. I have been working with
- > photographs for some time, and it is still a complete mystery to my
- > how to balance the image digitally so the halftone output is of a
- > high quality for offset printing.
- >
- ...
- > My third try now is that I rebalanced the image for a maximum black
- > saturation of 85% and minimum of 10%. This doesn't look too bad on
- > screen, though it just seems low contrast (obviously). The image still
- > seems dark to me, but that relates to yet another problem. I'll be
- > getting the linotron transparencies this evening (2540 dpi, ~150lpi
- > screen).
- >
- > The yet another problem is viewing the data. I can view the images
- > with 4 or five separate programs, all of which provide radically
- > different interpretations of what is seen, much less how it prints.
- > (1) Corel Draw preview displays a dark image.
- > (2) PhotoStyler displays a perfect image
- > (3) HP Scanjet scanning software displays a perfect image.
- > (4) Halo Imager displays a quite dark image
- > (5) PageMaker displays a darkish image
- >
- > These all describe images which were originally printed quite dark.
- >
- > (1) Corel Draw preview displays a darkish image
- > (2) PhotoStyler displays a pale image
- > (3) HP Scanjet scanning software displays a low-contrast image
- > (4) Halo Imager displays a perfect image
- > (5) Pagemaker displays a low-contrast image.
- >
-
- You will have to 'calibrate' your printer. The final print needs just a trace of
- ink in the highlights, and not quite 100% in the shadows. To get this you USUALY
- need a fine dot in the halftone hilights, and a small white 'dot' in the darkest
- areas. Include a gray scale and go off that. Examine the PIXELS in the data
- with a 'magnifier', or use a real loupe on the film. Then adjust for the effects
- you printer introduces. He will probably be able to tell you about the corrections
- you need for his press. Note that if you change ink, paper, press, plate type,
- Phase of moon etc you get to do it ALL again...
-
- Why are you outputing 300dpi files BTW? Why not full 2400?
-
- ~Paul
-
-
-