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- Path: sparky!uunet!spool.mu.edu!agate!ames!sgi!fido!woof!airey
- From: airey@woof.asd.sgi.com (John Airey)
- Newsgroups: alt.surfing
- Subject: Re: ho ho ho (There was surf in big sur)
- Date: 28 Dec 1992 18:06:03 GMT
- Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc. Mountain View, CA
- Lines: 75
- Message-ID: <1hnfmbINNovf@fido.asd.sgi.com>
- References: <1hga90INNcun@overload.lbl.gov>
- NNTP-Posting-Host: woof.asd.sgi.com
-
-
- In article <1hga90INNcun@overload.lbl.gov>, njtravis@ux5.lbl.gov writes:
- > [..nancy's tragic tale deleted..]
- > My tail patch was too wet and temporary to surf anyway. Bah humbug!
- >
- > Now my freshly modified Christmas-Custom Stewart HydroHull is drying in
- > front of the fireplace. It used to be a square tail but since the
- > corners were smashed its now a radical rounded square tail (soon to
- > be a pintail if my luck keeps up!).
- >
- > The swell is probably still on its way.
- > I have 10 more days off work and Santa owes me!
-
- Nancy, I think it was too north to hit the eastside.
-
- I can say that because I surfed christmas day in close to double
- overhead offshore wind beachbreak.
-
- I'm kind of proud of it because it was the north facing beach
- of Point Sur, which any other day of the year you probably
- would have been tossed out for trespassing, and would usually
- be blown out from the predominant northwest wind anyway.
-
- But the big storm up north sent swell down (which went right
- by S.C.), and the wind swung in from the south,
- and it was christmas day so no patrollers and we lucked out.
-
- There was a giant peak about .4 of the way from the lighthouse
- to the headland. It was breaking from top to bottom with 30 feet
- of spray blowing off the top. You could have fitted a car in
- the tube going left. There was a carsized rock in the shorebreak
- dead in the middle of the peak.
-
- I didn't ride that peak. Just too wimpy; I'm not used to something
- that big *and* hollow where you need to be able to go either way.
- It looked like the lane on a big day.
- I rode the next peak towards the headland going right towards
- the huge peak. That was thrilling enough believe me.
- There were some big lefts I could have taken, and my brother
- in law did take them. But after learning on a right point,
- I don't have much of a backhand and it wasn't a good time
- to practice.
-
- The water was clear as a bell; you could see the sandy bottom.
- I wore no booties, so it can't have been too cold.
-
- The only bad thing was getting out, which took some work.
-
- I later talked to a local who had moved up from Santa Barbara.
- He surfs Big Sur a lot, including all the
- "secret" Big Sur spots that you have to have eight generations of
- local family to be allowed to surf and he was pretty jealous, since that
- was probably the best spot over the Holidays.
-
- It even looked good on Sunday when I was driving back.
-
- I also surfed Pfeifer beach, but it wasn't very good. The only
- good thing was that I got to practice going left.
-
- On the Sunday coming back, I also looked in at Moss Beach.
- The peaks were maybe chest to head, but there was no wind and it looked
- fun. A few guys were out. So nancy, that's were you should have gone!
-
- If there is a very north swell, say more than 300 degreea,
- and a south wind which is what you get if the storm is actually going
- to come over us, the eastside won't work.
-
- I would guess that O.B. would have been okay christmas day also.
-
- >
- > Nancy
-
- john m. airey airey@asd.sgi.com (415) 390-5248
- M/S 7U-550 Silicon Graphics, Advanced Graphics Division
- 2011 N. Shoreline Blvd., Mtn. View, CA 94039
-