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- Newsgroups: sci.aquaria
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- From: mar@athena.mit.edu (Mark A. Rosenstein)
- Subject: Re: sump float switch question
- Message-ID: <1992Nov20.185652.14565@athena.mit.edu>
- Sender: news@athena.mit.edu (News system)
- Nntp-Posting-Host: toto.mit.edu
- Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology
- References: <19921118104907SASAXG@mvs.sas.com>
- Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 18:56:52 GMT
- Lines: 29
-
- The term "float switch" could describe a lot of things. In
- connection with aquaria, it generally refers to a device which
- senses water level, and when that level passes above or below
- a particular set point, throws a switch to provide power to
- something or to stop providing power. They generally switch
- regular 110V outlets so that you can plug in any device. The
- physical switch may directly toggle line power, or it may
- control a low voltage relay which in turn controls line power.
-
- The kind I'm familiar with have a styrofoam float with a magnet
- imbedded in it, and a reed switch which throws when the magnet
- is next to it. By turning the float around, you can have it
- either provide power when the water level is high, or cut off
- power.
-
- The ones sold especially for aquariums are often quite expensive.
- I made one myself which has worked fine for over a year now. The
- key piece is a float switch from W.W.Grainger (a nation-wide chain
- of industrial suppliers), part number 2A554 for $10.50. I'm fairly
- certain it's properly rated to control power heads, although some-
- one has questioned this and I keep forgetting to double-check the
- specs. It is saltwater safe. To this switch I add an aquarium
- airline suction cup to hold it in place in the sump, and connect
- the wires to half of a "switched outlet". This is a device you can
- get where extension cords are sold which has a switch at one end of
- a long cord and a plug/outlet combination at the other end. I cut
- the wire and replace the switch with the float switch, and voila!
- The float switch controls the outlet.
- -Mark
-