home *** CD-ROM | disk | FTP | other *** search
- Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
- Path: sparky!uunet!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!adobe!usenet
- From: bennett@adobe.com(Bennett Leeds)
- Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboard
- Message-ID: <1992Nov20.012836.4744@adobe.com>
- Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS)
- Reply-To: bennett@adobe.com
- Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated
- References: <1992Nov19.194017.5985@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com>
- Distribution: usa
- Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 01:28:36 GMT
- Lines: 26
-
- bill nelson writes
- > sesv@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (steven.e.sommars) writes:
- > : You want to force the wood against the fence and down, never
- > : into the blade. Featherboards should end in front
- > : of the sawblade. Some other types of hold-downs can be placed
- > : between the sawblade and the fence.
- >
- > Correct. If you want a featherboard after the blade (to keep the work
- > piece against the fence better), then you need to be making a cut that
- > is less than the blade kerf thick. That way, there is no waste stock
- > to get in the way.
- >
- > Since I have a highly smooth and waxed table top, it is easy for me to
- > let the board wander away from the fence. With a sharp blade, I do not
- > even notice, until too late. The second featherboard - behind the blade
- > on finish cuts - eliminates this problem.
-
-
- Rather than performing a second "finish" cut so that you can use two
- featherboards, I recommend using one of the rip-fence-mounted holddowns
- (Shophelpers, Ripstrate, Leichtung, etc.) that not only hold the wood down
- on the table, but also against the fence. As Steve says, these can even
- be located between the sawblade and the fence in many circumstances.
-
- - Bennett Leeds
- bennett@adobe.com
-