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- Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
- Path: sparky!uunet!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!sdd.hp.com!hp-cv!hp-pcd!hpcvaac!billn
- From: billn@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com (bill nelson)
- Subject: Re: Magnetic Featherboard
- Message-ID: <1992Nov19.194017.5985@hpcvaac.cv.hp.com>
- Organization: Hewlett-Packard Company, Corvallis, Oregon USA
- References: <1992Nov19.150142.665@cbnewsc.cb.att.com>
- Distribution: usa
- Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1992 19:40:17 GMT
- Lines: 23
-
- sesv@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (steven.e.sommars) writes:
-
- : > board right at the saw blade. BUT, when the cut finishes the
- : > spring action pushes the off-cut into the blade. This means
- : > you place the holder farther back
- :
- : You want to force the wood against the fence and down, never
- : into the blade. Featherboards should end in front
- : of the sawblade. Some other types of hold-downs can be placed
- : between the sawblade and the fence.
-
- Correct. If you want a featherboard after the blade (to keep the work
- piece against the fence better), then you need to be making a cut that
- is less than the blade kerf thick. That way, there is no waste stock
- to get in the way.
-
- Since I have a highly smooth and waxed table top, it is easy for me to
- let the board wander away from the fence. With a sharp blade, I do not
- even notice, until too late. The second featherboard - behind the blade
- on finish cuts - eliminates this problem.
-
- Bill
-
-