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Garlic
Garlic is used in a wide variety of recipes. Mincing this
vegetable and mixing with water creates a spray that repels many
garden pests.
Soil Requirements:
Plant in a well drained soil with plenty of compost.
Planting:
Cloves of garlic are rounded on one end and pointed on the
other. Gently press the clove into the soil with the pointed end
slightly above the soil line.
Fertilizer:
Apply moderate amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium.
Pests:
onion maggots and thrips.
Diseases:
Downy mildew, Neck rot, Pink rot, and Smut.
Harvest:
Harvest individual plants as needed fresh. Whole bulbs may be
stored and individual cloves separated as needed.
_________________________________________________________________
Horseradish
Horseradish is a perennial plant that is usually grown as an
annual. It is grown for the root it develops and grows best in
cool weather. Its main use is in spicy condiments.
Soil Requirements:
A well drained fertile soil is preferred. A deeply cultivated
soil is important for proper root development.
Planting:
Set out plants or root cuttings in the early spring. The top of
the root cuttings should be two to five inches below the soil
line. As the plant develops its main root will send off side
shoots or small roots. To develop one large main root, dig around
the crown of the root and underneath the soil line cut off the
side shoots. These smaller shoots may be used right away.
Fertilizer:
Nitrogen requirements are low but potassium requirements are
high to encourage root development. Generous amounts of potash
will aid this development.
Pests:
Not seriously effected.
Diseases:
White rot.
Harvest:
Horseradish is a hardy plant, so pick them as you need them and
harvest the remainder after the first fall frost. If the side
roots where not removed during growth, they may be saved when
harvesting the main root for next year's planting.
_________________________________________________________________
Kale
Kale is a hardy member of the cabbage family and like cabbage
does best in cool weather. Kale is such a hardy plant that in
many parts of the country it will continue to grow right through
the
winter producing an early spring crop.
Soil Requirements:
Make sure there is plenty of lime in the soil. Till in plenty
of organic matter and composted manure.
Planting:
Kale seed will sprout from early spring and up until a few
weeks before the first frost in the fall. To have kale in the
winter these plants need two or three weeks to develop before the
first frost. Mix a "tea" of manure and water to feed the young
plants and then once every three weeks until mature.
Fertilizer:
A fertilizer high in potassium will stimulate leaf development.
Pests:
Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Cabbage maggots, Cutworms, Flea
beetles, Harlequin bugs, Imported cabbage worms, and Leafminers.
Diseases:
Black rot.
Harvest:
Harvest the whole plant or pick young tender leaves from the
bottom of the plant, allowing the top leaves to develop.
_________________________________________________________________
Kohlrabi
Kohlrabi is a turnip-like plant that grows best in cool
weather.
Soil Requirement:
Soil should be rich in organic matter and fairly well drained.
Planting:
Although kohlrabi will grow just about any time of the year it
does best in cool weather. Plant seed in the early spring. Be
careful not to till or hoe too deep for the plant puts out a
shallow root system just below the soil line. After it reaches a
tall enough height, lay down some mulch around the plant to hold
down the weeds.
Fertilizer:
Fertilizer requirements are low, but be sure to apply enough
nitrogen to keep growth steady. In addition, keep the ground
moist or the edible roots will become woody.
Pests:
Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Cabbage maggots, Cutworms, Flea
beetles, Harlequin bugs, Imported cabbage worms, and Leafminers.
Diseases:
Black rot.
Harvest:
Harvest the roots when they are young and tender. They should
be about two inches in diameter and will take about 80 days.
_________________________________________________________________
Leeks
Leeks are members of the onion family with long pointed leaves.
Soil Requirements:
Leeks are not very particular about the type of soil it is
planted in, but it is best that it be well drained with plenty of
compost. Check to make sure there is adequate lime in the soil.
Planting:
After planting the seed, allow the young seedlings to grow to a
height of about eight inches. You should then dig up the
seedlings, removing half of the tops. They are then set back out
spacing the plants about six inches apart.
Fertilizer:
Apply moderate amounts of composted manure. Phosphorous and
potassium needs are low.
Pests:
onion maggots and Thrips.
Diseases:
Downy mildew, Neck rot, Pink rot, and Smut.
Harvest:
Harvest leeks when the stems are one to two inches in diameter.
_________________________________________________________________
Lettuce,leaf
Lettuce is by far the most popular salad vegetable there is.
Lettuce varieties may be either heading or loose-leaf types. It
is primarily a cool weather plant, but the loose-leaf kind may
tolerate much warmer temperatures than the heading type.
Soil Requirements:
Lettuce requires a well drained humus soil. While the soil
should be well drained, never allow the soil to dry out. Often
the weekly rains will not be enough. Take care in providing the
additional water or the leaves will not develop properly. Tilling
in plenty of compost will be of benefit also.
Planting:
For a spring crop of lettuce it is best to start the seed in
flats, hotbeds, or coldframes four to six weeks prior to the last
killing frost. Set the seedlings out making sure there is plenty
of room between the plants. This spacing is generally about one
foot. Crowding the plants much closer than this will greatly
reduce chances for a successful crop. It would be a good idea to
put a handful of compost in the hole the transplants are going
into. Placing mulch around the plants will hold down weeds, hold
in much needed moisture, and keep the soil temperature cool.
For a fall crop, sowing the seed directly in the soil in the
late summer is often successful. Whether it be a spring crop or a
fall crop, hot temperatures could wilt the plant. Providing some
sort of shade may be necessary. This may be as simple as pulling
a loose layer of straw over the plant, or setting up a fine mesh
netting over the plant.
Fertilizer:
Nitrogen requirements are moderate to high and potassium
requirements are only moderate. Lettuce need to have steady and
rapid growth. Sidedressing the plants with compost or composted
manure will insure this growth.
Pests:
Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Cutworms, Flea beetles, Leafminers,
Slugs, and Snails.
Diseases:
Lettuce rot.
Harvest:
If you have planted heading lettuce, it does not necessarily
have to head up to be harvested. Go ahead and pull up the whole
plant and eat it! If you have planted a loose-leaf lettuce
harvest the tender outer and lower leaves as they are needed,
leaving the plant in the ground to mature more leaves. For
maximum crispness, harvest lettuce in the morning after the plant
has had the benefit of a cool moist night.
_________________________________________________________________
Melon:
Cantaloupe or Muskmelon is a warm weather plant and will not
tolerate any kind of cool or cold weather. As a matter of fact,
fruit quality can even be effected by extended periods of cloudy
weather.
Soil Requirements:
A well drained, humus soil containing some sand works best and
naturally they require lots of space to grow.
Planting:
Melons should only be planted once the temperatures are truly
warm. Plant seeds either directly in the soil are in peat pots,
for they do not transplant well. Place a generous amount of
compost or composted manure in each hill.
Fertilizer:
Melons are heavy feeders and therefore require plenty of
nitrogen. Composted manure is a good source.
Pests:
Slugs, Spotted cucumber beetle, and Striped cucumber beetle.
Diseases:
Fusarium wilt, Mosaic, and Powdery mildew.
Harvest:
Harvest the fruit when the stem looks cracked and shriveled and the
curl has turned brown. If the melon does not come off the vine with
a slight turn, the fruit is probably not ripe.
_________________________________________________________________
Mustard
Mustard or mustard greens is a cool weather plant that is
generally grown for its tasty leaves by the home gardener. Hot
weather tends to make the plant bolt and go to seed. The seed is
what the commercial grower is after. This is what makes the
condiment table mustard.
Soil Requirements:
For best results grow mustard in a well drained, moderately
sandy loam soil.
Planting:
Plant seed two to four weeks before the last frost in the
spring or six to eight weeks before the first frost in the fall.
Mustard does not require much rainfall. Extra watering would only
be needed when the plant is trying to mature in an extended
period of dry weather.
Fertilizer:
Apply fertilizers with nitrogen content on the high side.
Pests:
Aphids, Cabbage maggots, Flea beetles, Harlequin bugs, Imported
cabbage worms, and Whiteflies.
Diseases:
Black rot.
Harvest:
Mustard can be harvested several ways. Pick the larger mature
leaves, leaving the smaller leaves to mature; pull up the entire
plant; or cut the leaves down near the crown, allowing the plant
to produce a second crop.
_________________________________________________________________
New Zealand Spinach
New Zealand Spinach is not a true spinach, but is used in
recipes in much the same way. The one great advantage is that
this spinach substitute will tolerate hot weather, whereas its
cousin will not.
Soil Requirements:
Spinach grows best on a well drained soil, rich in organic
matter. Also, this green will not do well in acidic soils. Lime
the soil to achieve a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.
Planting:
The hard shells of spinach seed can be softened by soaking the
seed overnight prior to planting. Planting of this variety should
be delayed until soil and air temperatures are warm. Weeds can be
a problem with this shallow rooted plant, so mulching is
important. Make sure this plant always has adequate moisture.
Fertilizer:
This is a fairly heavy feeding plant and should be given a
nitrogen rich fertilizer about every four weeks. Composted manure
is a good source. Potassium requirements are moderate.
Pests:
Aphids, European corn borers, Flea beetles, Leafminers, and
Whiteflies.
Diseases:
Blight and Downy mildew.
Harvest:
Leaves can be harvested, leaving the plant in the ground to put
on new growth.
_________________________________________________________________
Okra
Okra is a prolific hot-weather plant, requiring only a few
plants for the average family.
Soil Requirements:
Okra is not very picky about the type of soil it is planted in,
but a well drained soil with plenty of compost added to the soil
is ideal.
Planting:
Okra seeds have a hard shell, so soaking the seed overnight in
water will speed up germination. This plant will grow quite large
and adequate space between the rows will be necessary. Not only
will this aid the plant, but it will also protect you the
gardener from the skin irritation it can cause. This will give
you plenty of room to cultivate and harvest the plants. Planting
should be delayed until the air and soil temperatures are warm.
Okra does not tolerate cool weather. In addition, wet heavy soil
can cause the seed to rot in the ground.
Fertilizer:
This fast growing plant is a heavy feeder and requires a
fertilizer high in nitrogen. Chicken manure or rabbit manure are
two organic sources with high amounts of nitrogen. Sidedressing
the plants with compost will also benefit the plant.
Pests:
Corn earworms, Green stink bugs, and Imported cabbage worms.
Diseases:
Blight, Nematodes, and Root knot nematode.
Harvest:
Harvest the pods while they are soft. Overmature pods will very
hard and decrease plant growth. These should be removed. Once the
fruit starts producing it will need to be checked on a daily
basis. The first mature fruit will begin on lower limbs while the
top of the plant puts out new growth. After harvesting all okra
on the lower limbs these limbs can be cut off to send stimulation
to the top of the plant.
_________________________________________________________________
Onion
Onions grown for large bulbs is discussed in this section.
Growing onion from seed is in the following section and growing
bunch onions is in the next section under onion sets.
Soil Requirements:
Onions need a well drained soil with plenty of compost mixed
in.
Planting:
These large onion bulbs are grown from onion sets, similar to
bunch onions. These are set out in early spring well before the
last frost. When the bulbs start to grow in diameter, start
pulling the soil away from the bulbs to have the bulb on top of
the ground with roots still in the soil. As the onion matures the
tops will start to fall over. It is at this time that a few of
the roots may be broken to speed up maturity.
Fertilizer:
Onions require moderate amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, and
potassium. This plant is somewhat of a heavy feeder, so
sidedressing with some additional nitrogen may be helpful. An
organic method is the use of composted manure.
The onion row should be trenched on both sides to a depth below
the roots. Into this trench should go a generous amount of moderate
fertilizer. The soil should be pulled back over the fertilizer, being
careful not to cover the bulbs. This should be done about every
10 days to 2 weeks.
Pests:
Onion maggots and Thrips.
Diseases:
Downy mildew, Neck rot, Pink rot, and Smut.
Harvest:
After the bulbs have reached maturity, place them in an old
onion or orange sack. This loose netting will allow air to flow
through and finish curing the onions. Hang the sack of onions in
a
protected area with plenty of ventilation and they should keep
well for quite some time.
_________________________________________________________________
Onion, seeds
Growing onion from seed takes patience and time. For these
reasons it is not the method of choice for most home gardeners.
Soil Requirements:
Onions need a well drained soil with plenty of compost mixed
in.
Planting:
One advantage of planting onion seed is that there is a much
wider variety of onions available in seed. It is also the method
that would be used on a larger scale, such as commercial growers.
Plant the seed before last frost. Covering the seed with a fine
layer of compost is a good idea. Onions have a shallow root
system, so weeding is important.
Fertilizer:
Onions require moderate amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, and
potassium. This plant is somewhat of a heavy feeder, so
sidedressing with some additional nitrogen may be helpful. An
organic method is the use of composted manure.
The onion row should be trenched on both sides to a depth below
the roots. Into this trench should go a generous amount of moderate
fertilizer. The soil should be pulled back over the fertilizer, being
careful not to cover the bulbs. This should be done about every
10 days to 2 weeks.
Pests:
Onion maggots and Thrips.
Diseases:
Downy mildew, Neck rot, Pink rot, and Smut.
Harvest:
After the bulbs have reached maturity, place them in an old
onion or orange sack. This loose netting will allow air to flow
through and finish curing the onions. Hang the sack of onions in
a
protected area with plenty of ventilation and they should keep
well for quite some time.
_________________________________________________________________
Onion, sets
Green bunch onions or scallions are easy to grow and provide a
good source for fresh onions as you need them.
Soil Requirements:
Onions need a well drained soil with plenty of compost mixed
in. Deep tilling is important for healthy root development.
Planting:
Place the sets at fairly close intervals, keeping the young
plants well watered while the roots take hold. The green onions
will quickly create bunches and make a solid row of fresh tops.
Fertilizer:
Onions require moderate amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, and
potassium. This plant is somewhat of a heavy feeder, so
sidedressing with some additional nitrogen may be helpful. An
organic method is the use of composted manure.
The onion row should be trenched on both sides to a depth below
the roots. Into this trench should go a generous amount of moderate
fertilizer. The soil should be pulled back over the fertilizer, being
careful not to cover the bulbs. This should be done about every
10 days to 2 weeks.
Pests:
Onion maggots and Thrips.
Diseases:
Downy mildew, Neck rot, Pink rot, and Smut.
Harvest:
After the green onions start producing tops they will rapidly
multiply. Start cutting the green tops or dig up individual
plants
for fresh use in the kitchen. If you pull up a plant, skip around
the row to leave other bulbs to multiply.
_________________________________________________________________
Parsley
Parsley is a biennial herb known for its flavorful taste it
gives to potatoes and sauces.
Soil Requirements:
Parsley is not very picky about the type of soil it is planted
in, but it would be advantageous to have some composted manure
mixed into the soil.
Planting:
Parsley seeds are very slow to germinate. To speed up
germination soak the seeds 24 hours before planting. Cover the
seed with a fine layer of soil. Be patient for it could take up
to four weeks for the young seedlings to break above the soil.
Fertilizer:
Use a fertilizer rich in nitrogen.
Pests:
Parsley worms.
Diseases:
Mildew.
Harvest:
Begin harvesting the leaves when they are well developed. Cut
the outer leaves, leaving the center of the plant to produce new
growth. To dry the leaves, lay them on a fine mesh screen in a
dry, shady place with plenty of ventilation. In the fall you can
remove the whole plant and place it in a pot to be brought
indoors. The potted parsley will provide fresh leaves through the
winter.
_________________________________________________________________
Parsnip
Parsley is a cool to cold weather plant and may be left in the
ground through the winter to pick as needed.
Soil Requirements:
As with any root vegetable the soil should be tilled very deep
and loose for proper root development. Adding compost to the soil
will also be beneficial.
Planting:
Areas of the country with mild winters should plant this
vegetable only in the fall for a winter harvest. Cold weather and
even a freeze improves the flavor of parsnips. Parsnip seeds are
slow to germinate, so overnight soaking of the seed is
recommended. You may want to consider marking the rows with
radish seed. The faster germinating radish will have the
advantage of breaking up any crusty soil while the parsnips are
trying to break through the surface.
Fertilizer:
Parsnips requires small amounts of nitrogen and moderate
amounts of phosphorous. The use of fertilizers with plenty of
potassium will encourage proper root development.
Pests:
Seldom bothered.
Diseases:
Seldom bothered.
Harvest:
Parsnips may be left in the ground through the winter,
harvesting
as needed. In the spring when the tops begin to grow once again,
harvest all remaining roots or they will become woody and loose
their taste.
_________________________________________________________________
Peas, black-eye
Field peas or Southern peas can all be grown alike, whether
they are black-eye, crowder, pinkeyes, or purple hull just to
name a few.
Soil Requirements:
Field peas may be grown in just about any type of soil, but
should not be grown in nitrogen rich soils.
Planting:
This is a definite warm weather plant and should not be planted
until the soil and air temperatures are warm. Consider planting
peas in an area of the garden that had or will have a heavy
nitrogen feeding vegetable. Field peas create their own nitrogen
and will leave this nitrogen in the soil once gone. They can
either be planted in a row or broadcast over an area. Keep the
pea patch properly weeded while the plants are trying to develop.
Once the plants grow tall and thick, weeds will have a much
harder time penetrating the thick foliage.
Fertilizer:
Field peas require very little if any fertilizer to grow.
Nitrogen will cause the plant to grow all vine and little fruit.
Pests:
Aphids, Cowpea Curculio, Cucumber beetles, Leafminers, and
Stink bugs.
Diseases:
Fusarium wilt, Mosaic, Nematodes, Root knot nematode, Root rot,
and Viruses.
Harvest:
Harvest field peas when they are well filled out and easy to
shell. One great thing about peas are that they will lift the
majority of their pods above the foliage, waiting to be picked.
In the case of purple hull peas the pods will start off green
colored and when the peas are ready for harvest turn purple. Keep
all mature or dried peas picked to keep the plant vigorous.
_________________________________________________________________
Peas, garden and Peas, podded
English peas and edible podded peas, such as sugar peas and
snow peas are discussed in this section. These peas are cool
weather plants.
Soil Requirements:
Soil should be light and well drained. Deep planting and heavy
wet soils could cause seed rotting.
Planting:
Planting is best suited for very early spring planting when
temperatures are at least 45 degrees. It can often be very
difficult to get into the garden at this time of the year because
wet and cold weather. For this reason it is best to prepare the
soil in the fall. Hilling up the planting area in rows will help
to drain off excessive winter and early spring rains. If its
still too wet to plow come planting time, go ahead and "mud" the
seed into the ground. A short trellis of chicken wire or sticks
will be needed to support the vines. Wet pods left on the ground
will quickly rot. Some of the shorter varieties can be planted
closer in double rows to support each other without the need for
additional support.
Fertilizer:
Peas create their own nitrogen and should not need anything
more, other than maybe a little composted manure. Phosphorous and
potassium requirements are moderate.
Pests:
Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Corn earworms, and Cucumber beetles.
Diseases:
Ascochyta blight, Bacterial blight, Blossom end rot, Mosaic,
Powdery mildew, and Root rot.
Harvest:
English peas should be harvested while the pods are young and
tender, but filled out. If left to become too mature, they will
be hard and loose their flavor. The edible podded peas should be
harvested before the pods start to fill out with peas and before
the "zippers" develop strings.
_________________________________________________________________
Peppers
Peppers can be either sweet or hot. Some of the more popular
ones are Cayenne, Jalapeno, Chili, and Bell peppers.
Soil Requirements:
Peppers are not very particular about the type of soil it is
planted in. A good loose soil should be just fine.
Planting:
Plant this vegetable when all danger of frost has passed. Most
gardeners set out plants, since growing the transplants from seed
takes 8 to 12 weeks. Four or five plants should supply an average
family.
Fertilizer:
Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium requirements are low for
peppers. Too much fertilizer, in particular nitrogen, can cause
blossoms or young fruit to drop off of the plant. One tablespoon
of Epson salts around each plant at blossoming time will produce
larger and also thicker walled peppers.
Pests:
Aphids, Colorado potato beetles, Corn earworms, European corn
borers, Flea beetles, Leafminers, Pepper maggots, and Tomato
hornworms.
Diseases:
Bacterial spot, Blossom end rot, Mosaic, Southern stem blight,
Spotted wilt, Stem anthracnose, and Viruses.
Harvest:
Harvest peppers as needed fresh. Green bell peppers should be
picked before they start turning red.
_________________________________________________________________
Potatoes
Irish potatoes are generally a cool weather plant and is best
suited for early spring planting. The tubers may be white, light
brown, or red.
Soil Requirements:
Potatoes require a well drained, deeply tilled, loose soil. Be
careful about how much lime is applied to the soil. Potatoes are
one of the few vegetables that prefer an acidic soil The pH
should be below 6.0. Too alkaline of a soil could encourage the
disease potato scab.
Planting:
For early spring planting prepare the soil in the fall, when
the soil is drier and easy to work with. Hill up the rows fairly
high. The plants are grown from seed potatoes. These seed
potatoes are cut into pieces about one to two ounces in weight,
unless the seed potato are already small enough. Each cut piece
should have at least one eye. Lay the pieces on some newspaper
for one to two days to allow the cut pieces to heal, otherwise
seed rot may occur. Heavy wet soils could also cause seed rot.
Keep the dirt pulled up high around the plant to keep all
developing tubers well covered. Another method of growing
potatoes is to plant the seed potato 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep,
covering with soil. When the sprouts break through the surface,
start applying a straw mulch. Keep adding the mulch until it is
about one foot deep or so. If any tubers are seen above the
mulch, be sure to apply more mulch. Exposed potatoes can cause
the sun to turn the skin green. This green skin is poisonous and
should not be eaten. Sometimes potatoes will bloom and produce a
small green tomato-looking fruit. This fruit is also poisonous.
Fertilizer:
Potatoes require moderate amounts of nitrogen. A good organic
source is composted manure. Phosphorous and potassium
requirements are on the high side. This will encourage proper
root development. Cotton seed meal, bone meal, and potash are
some beneficial ingredients for an organic fertilizer.
Pests:
Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Colorado potato beetles, Corn
earworms, Cucumber beetles, European corn borers, Flea beetles,
Leafhoppers, Leafminers, Potato tuber worms, and Tomato
hornworms.
Diseases:
Black leg, Early blight, Internal black spot, Mosaic,
Rhizoctonia, Ring rot, Scurf, Soil rot, and Verticillium wilt.
Harvest:
Small young potatoes can be dug up and eaten any time. They are
great in a pot of green beans or eaten whole by themselves skin
and all. When the foliage starts dying it is time to harvest all
remaining potatoes. If you planted the potatoes in straw, just
pull
back the straw to reveal the prize, a nice clean potato. Lay the
potatoes out to dry quickly and then store them in a cool, dry,
dark place. Remember, sunlight will turn the potato skin green
and should not be eaten.
_________________________________________________________________
