TABLE OF CONTENTS

Playing Anyone For Cards?

Menus

Listing of Games

Participants


PLAYING ANYONE FOR CARDS?

Anyone For Cards presents to the user 12 different card games which can be played with/against 18 different computer-operated participants, each with varying levels of skills.

It is operated best with the mouse although it is possible to play using the keyboard, moving the cursor with the arrow keys.

To understand more of how the game is played, refer to the following topics:

Game Menu

Player Selection

Card Movement

Sorting

Status Bar

Skill Level


GAME MENU

After the opening title screen has gone and the user has seen the all-important credits, the program takes the user to the living room of Reynold and Viola.  After a moment to enjoy the beauty of their house, the user is shown twelve large buttons on which can be seen the names of the games available in Anyone For Cards?.

To select a game to play, move the cursor onto the desired button and press and release the left mouse button.

The games available are Cribbage, Gin, Hearts, Spades, 31, 99, Whist, Pinochle, Oh Hell, George, Euchre, and Crazy Eights.


PLAYER SELECTION

After the game has been selected, you are moved to the Player Selection screen.  It is here you decide who you will play against and/or with.

At the bottom of the screen is the status bar on which will be placed buttons to help you make you selections

The center of the screen holds both a text area where instructions and/or information will be displayed as well as a representation of the playing area with rectangles representing chairs.  The chair in the lower center is your chair and will never be filled.  The remaining chair(s) are placed where they will be in the game

Surrounding this text area are the pictures of the 18 people at the home of Viola and Reynold with/against whom you can play cards.

Each game has pre-set players assigned by us.  Little versions of the cameos will already by placed in the chairs when you get to this screen.  If you like the people so placed, simply press the OK button at the bottom and the game will commence.  If you do not like these people, you are free to change them any way you see fit.

The Random button is used to randomly select players to fill vacant chairs.  This is handy when you don't really care to think about who you will be playing with.

The Clear button will clear all the chairs and allow you to start fresh.

The OK button is pressed when you are satisfied with the selection of players and want to move on to the game.

The Select button is used when you have highlighted a player and wish to select that player to move either from his slot to a chair or from a chair back to his slot.

The Bio button will display in the left-bottom text area a short bio of the player along with his/her basic skill at the game in question.  A more expanded version of the bio can be found in this help file.

Players can be selected/moved in one of three ways.  You can press the left mouse button while the cursor is on a cameo and then press the Select button.  You can double-click on a cameo.  Or you can press the right mouse button while the cursor is over a cameo and, while continuing to hold it down, move to the area you want it and then release it.


CARD HANDLING

In each area where a card must be selected or played, there are three ways in which to conduct this selection/play.

You can move your cursor to the card and press the left mouse button.  This will highlight the card.  You then can move to the status bar area and press the appropriate button, such as "Discard".  The action, if legal, will occur.

You can move your cursor to the card you wish and double-click the mouse.  The card will move on its own.

You can move your cursor to the card and press and hold the right mouse button.  This will allow you to pick up the card and hold it.  While continuing to hold the right button, move the cursor (carrying the card with you) to where you wish the card to be placed.  Once there, release the right button.  The card should drop into place.  (TIP:  you might wish to have the cursor arrow slightly to the right and below where you would place the card.)


SORTING

Sorting is the act of arranging your cards in a certain order to make them more readable.  It is accomplished through the use of two buttons on the status bar.  The buttons, and the methods of sorting are:

SORT BY RANK

and

SORT BY SUIT

TIP:  By combining the two sorts in a Sort By Rank and then Sort By Suit combination, the cards will usually be in a highly organized and readable order.


SORT BY RANK

Sorting by rank is accomplished by pressing the Sort By Rank button on the status bar.

It will arrange the cards in your hand in ascending order from the left side based on the value of the cards in the game you are playing.  If an Ace is high in a game, it will be at  the "top", or the right side.  If an Ace is low in a game, it will be at the "bottom", or the left side.

The suits play no part in this sort.  The order of the suits inside a rank is unchanged.


SORT BY SUIT

Sorting by suit  is accomplished by pressing the Sort By Suit  button on the status bar.

It will arrange the cards in your hand in the following suit order (selected for ease of reading):  DIAMONDS, CLUBS, HEARTS, SPADES

The order of the rank inside the suit is unchanged.


STATUS BAR

During the selection of the players and during the play of the games, the bottom of the screen holds the status bar.

On this status bar will be found the various buttons which help drive your end of the game.  The buttons will change from game to game and, sometimes, even from event to event inside a particular game, always with the intent of making your play easier.

Some buttons, such as the sorting buttons, are constant throughout the games.  The rest will depend on the game being played.  If a button is active, it will have the text in black.  If it is inactive, and therefore, cannot be chosen, the text will be grayed out.

Many buttons work simply by pressing them (like the sort buttons and the From buttons).  If you press an active button and nothing happens, chances are you need to select one or more cards prior to pressing the button (like in Gin when you need to select a card to discard, you would highlight the card and then press the Select button).


SKILL LEVELS

There are 18 different players and 12 different games.  To add variety to Anyone For Cards?, we have assigned a skill level to each player for each game.  Thus a player may be very good at one game, fair at another, and perhaps poor at another.  The levels are EXPERT (never knowingly makes an error), GOOD (usually right on target), FAIR (an average but not exceptional player), and NOVICE (simply knows the rules of the game).


MENUS

Through the menus, you can customize your playing to better fit your style and your mood.  The basic Menus are:

FILE

OPTIONS

SETTINGS

HELP


FILE MENU

Through the file menu you can start a brand new game, load in a pre-existing game, save the game you have going, save the settings as you have made them, and even quit the game.

The commands you can select are:

NEW GAME

LOAD GAME

SAVE GAME

SAVE GAME AS

SAVE SETTINGS

RETURN TO GAME MENU

QUIT


NEW GAME

Through this menu, the user can stop any game currently in progress and start from scratch.  The participants remain the same.


LOAD GAME

To load a game already in progress, use this menu. The user is prompted for the name of the saved game. It is exists and can be found, it will be loaded in and restarted from the point at which it was saved.

Note that any ongoing game is lost when another game is loaded in.


SAVE GAME

If you are playing a game and you need to stop, you can save the game in progress so you may return to it at a later date.  This menu will allow you to save the game as the last filename you have selected.  If you have not selected a filename thus far, you will be prompted to so select.

Note that you cannot access this menu during the play of a hand.  You must first finish the hand and then select the save menu.  You do not have to finish a game, however.


SAVE GAME AS

If you have already saved a game as one filename and you wish to save it under a different filename, you may use this menu.  It will prompt you for a new filename, allowing you to change directories and even drives as you desire.

Note that you cannot access this menu during the play of a hand.  You must first finish the hand and then select this menu.  You do not have to finish a game, however.


SAVE SETTINGS

For each game there are certain settings which dictate how the game is played but which are modifiable by you.  Additionally, there are numerous Options which adjust the way the entire program works (such as turning sound on or off, the speed with which the cards move, the delay in the talking, etc.).

Saving the settings via this menu is the way in which you preserve them to be used in future games.  The settings are saved under the filename "AFC.SET".

Each time the program is started, it looks in its main directory for this file.  If it finds it, it loads it in and uses the settings/options contained therein.  If it cannot find the file, it will use default settings for everything.

If you have changed things considerably and wish to return everything to the default way, you can simply delete this file.


RETURN TO GAME MENU

At any time during the play of a game, you can quit the game in progress and return to the Game Menu screen.

You would do this if you wished to play another game or you wish to play the same game but with a different group of people.

The game being vacated is lost unless you have used the save menus to preserve it.


QUIT

If you have to leave the program, you can use this menu.  You will be prompted as to whether or not you wish to save your settings.  The default answer is Yes so simply pressing the OK button or pressing the Enter key will automatically save the settings and exit you from the game.


OPTIONS MENU

The Options menu is the place to go to change the way many things in the program work.  The items that can be changed are:

TALKING SPEED

SOUND

MUSIC

CARDS MOVING

DECK IMAGE

TABLE TOP

PRACTICE MODE

SKILL LEVELS

SHOW/HIDE NOTEPAD

GAME LOG


TALKING SPEED

There are numerous things which the computer players have to say to you, some simply short messages and some quite lengthy diatribes.  The shorter items are easily read. However, the longer ones can take some time to read in their entirety.

This menu allows you to select the speed with which the speech is displayed (i.e., the delay before it goes away).

A fast talking speed cause for only a short time that the message is on the screen while a slow speed keeps it visible for some time.


SOUND

There are numerous sound effects which alert the user to activity, such as a trick being trumped, a "bad" card being played, an important message being displayed, etc.

This menu allows the user to decide whether to listen to these sound effects or not. It is a toggle, which means selecting it turns it off while selecting it a second time turns it back on, and so forth.


MUSIC

Music can add greatly to the enjoyment of the game. If, however, you've enjoyed about as much as you can, you can use this menu to toggle the music off or on.

To keep the entertainment value of the music, Anyone For Cards? has six different musical pieces from which to choose.  You can select any of these pieces and that tune will repeat throughout the game.  Some pieces are relatively short, others are quite lengthy.

You can also elect to hear all of them run through sequentially.  This aids greatly in keeping the music enjoyable and not tedious.


CARDS MOVING

As cards are being dealt or played, they must move from the deck to the hand or from the hand to the playing surface.

This menu allows the user to select the speed with which the cards move from one place to another. A slower setting means the cards move slower. A faster setting moves the cards faster. The fastest setting is virtually instantaneous.


DECK IMAGE

Tired of the same old backs of cards?  This menu lets you select the deck that you most like, out of a group of ten different pictures.

When you select this menu, a dialog box appears. Move the mouse cursor over the deck desired and press the left button. That cardback will be highlighted. Press the OK button to accept the choice. Press the CANCEL button to return to the game without choosing a new cardback.

The new deck will take effect on the next hand.


TABLE TOPS

When you play cards, you play on some type of surface.  To simulate that in Anyone For Cards?, we have provided numerous table tops on which you can play.

There are three wooden tables and two marble tables to choose from, as well as the ability to play on the oriental rug.

For those who do not want the decorative nature of these backgrounds, we also provide six different solid color backgrounds to let you choose one which best suits your eye.

Note that the selection will take affect on the next hand.


PRACTICE MODE

Practice makes perfect but it's really hard to learn anything just by yourself. Sometimes it is a lot easier to study what someone else is doing.

This menu button toggles the user between normal and practice modes. In Practice Mode, all of the opponent cards are visible.

Note that if the practice mode is on, no Game Log is kept.


SKILL LEVEL

The 18 people with whom you can play the various games each have a skill level in each game ranging from Expert to Novice.  This was done to add variety to the games.  It isn't fun to always play against the best or always play against the worst; sometimes it's nice to have an assortment.

However, you may wish to play against a person or persons in a particular game and their skill levels as we have made them may not be what you wish.  This menu gives you a bit of control over the skill level by allowing you to select, once you are in a game, what the skill level for all the participants will be.

At any time in a game, you can select this menu and, presto!, they are all playing at the level you have selected.


SHOW/HIDE NOTEPAD

The scores for most games (less Cribbage, 31, and 99) are kept on a scorepad. It is easily moved about the screen to get it out of the way. In the 640x480 graphics mode, however, there is nowhere to really put it completely out of the way.

This menu lets the user toggle the status of the notepad. The notepad can be hidden and then later shown again.

Note that after a hand is over, the notepad is returned to the visible screen to show the user the results of that hand. To again hide it, select this menu again (the name will have changed to reflect the difference) or press Ctl-P.


GAME LOG

You have just finished a game of spades with Tony as your partner playing against Hillary and Newt. You won but just by a bit. How have you and Tony done before against Hillary and Newt? Check the log.

A log is a record of how well you have done in a particular game with a particular group of fellow players. Each of the 12 card games can have up to 50 different logs, allowing 50 different combinations of partners/opponents.

This means that not only will it keep track of you and Tony against Hillary and Newt, it will keep track of you and Newt against Hillary and Tony.

These logs are kept in a single file on the hard drive with an extension of ".LOG". Deleting this file will cause the user to start from scratch.


SETTINGS

Have you ever noticed that people back east play cards a bit different than the Midwest?  Have you ever been in the middle of a game and have the person across from you say, "Oh, that's not how we play it HERE."?

There are a lot of different styles and rules for each card game you can play. ANYONE FOR CARDS tries to handle this via game settings. Each game has its own dialog box in which certain of the more commonly challenged rules may be adjusted.

When you select a game's setting menu, you are shown the dialog box for that game. In it will be found numerous diamond-shaped radio buttons placed in groups. Selecting one button in a group turns on that setting while turning off the settings of the other buttons in the group.

There are also edit boxes in which amounts (most common being the amount needed to win a game) can be entered.

If you press the CANCEL button, you will exit the setting activity and return to the main menu WITHOUT modifying anything (any changes will be lost).

If you press the OK button, you will return to the main menu and the settings you have chosen will be in effect.

Note that settings may only be chosen at the main menu, not while in a game itself. If you are in a game and wish to change the rules, you must first return to the game menu.


CRIBBAGE SETTINGS

Cribbage Count determines how fast the program will count the points in each person's hand during the meld portion of the game of Cribbage.  NO COUNT keeps the computer from actually counting out loud. Just the final scores are registered. COUNT SLOW is for those people who want a bit of time to read what each person is saying. COUNT MEDIUM is the average speed of counting. COUNT FAST is for those who only need a quick show of the count before moving on.

Board Type allows you to set which of the eight board designs you will use.  Some people like the Standard down-and-back style. Some prefer a racetrack shape. Some like just odd-ball, no-sense-to-it-at-all design. This setting lets you pick your own.

Peg Color gives you six different colors of pegs to use.  You may have your own preference or you may have trouble seeing one color on a particular board. Here you can individualize it.  Note that the computer opponent always uses black.


GIN SETTINGS

Amount To Win lets you decide how far the game of Gin will go before it is over. The standard is 100 but you can may it any number from 1 to 25,000.

Speculation occurs when your opponent has Knocked (never Gin'ed) and you have a card or cards in your hand which are unmatched and therefore would count against you but which will play on one of his/her sets.  For example, Tony knocked on 3 and had sets of 6-7-8 of Clubs, 3 Jacks, and 3 Kings.  If you had a 5 or 9 of Clubs, the other Jack, or the other King, you could "spec" that card(s) on Tony's hand. this reduces the amount of points he would get because that previously unmatched card(s) is now matched. The default setting is On. Turning this off eliminates the ability to spec.

UnderKnock Bonus means the amount of points you will get as a bonus if you are able to underknock your opponent. If, for example, Jennifer knocked on 7 and the total of unmatched cards in your hand was LESS than 7, you have just underknocked her and will get the difference in scores (7 minus what you had) plus the UnderKnock Bonus.

Cards Dealt determines the amount of cards that each player has to play with. Most people play with 10 cards but there are scattered groups that insist on playing with 7 cards.  The former is more challenging. The latter results in faster-paced games.

Knock When lets you decide what the criteria for knocking will be.  If you set it a Never, knocking will not be allowed (you will play until someone Gins). 10 Or Under (the default) means that the total of unmatched cards cannot be higher than 10. First Discard means that the first card discarded (always by the non-dealer) will determine the value which must be met or be under to knock (a 7 would mean that you must knock on 7 or less).

Scoring determines the method used in calculating who won and by how much.  The Simplified method just uses the score and nothing more (if the game was to 100 and you had 104 and Hillary had 97, you won 104-97). The Standard method is more complicated, taking into account hands won, games won, and the like.  The Standard is the default.


HEARTS SETTINGS

Who Starts decides who will lay the first card on any hand of Hearts. Dealer's Left has the first person to the left of the dealer leading out. Deuce Of Clubs has the person with the deuce of clubs in his/her hand leading that card.  The latter is the default.

Amount For Game lets you set the point at which the game is over. In other words,  when someone reaches that amount, the game is over and the person with the lowest score will be the winner.

Hearts Must Be Broken is a standard rule (and the default setting) in which the players cannot lead out a heart until they have been played as a response OR unless all the player has are hearts.  Turning this setting off would let people play a heart any time.

Black Lady, also know as Black Maria, Slippery Ann, and more colorful names, represents the Queen of Spades. The standard rules for the game of Hearts has no special rule for this card but the general public almost universally makes use of her, so the default is on Yes. When this option is on, the Queen of Spades is a very unpleasant card to get in a trick, resulting in 13 points against you.

The standard rules call for three cards to be passed by each player to another player at the beginning of each hand. Pass Direction is used to determine the direction this passing will take.  None means that no passing is done, period. Left Always will have you always passing to the left while Right Always and Across Always will have the passing in that direction every time. L-R-A means that the first time you pass to the left, then to the right and then across, before repeating the process. L-R-A-N means that you pass left, then right, then across, and then do not pass this time, before repeating the process.


SPADES SETTINGS

Amount To Win lets you select to what amount the game of Spades will go. The standard (and default) amount is 250 but you can make it anything from 1 go 25,000.

Minimum Tricks To Take has you determining how many tricks each player must take or suffer a penalty. Must Take At Least One means that you must bid and pull in at least one or be set. None With Penalty/Bonus means that you can bid 0 tricks and, if you do bid 0 you will be rewarded if you take none and penalized heavily if you happen to take some. None lets you bid zero without being hurt.

Play Partners lets you decide whether you want to play "cut-throat" or with a partner. No means that there are no partners and it's everyone for him/herself. Yes No Passing (the default) sets you up to play with a partner against another partnership of two players. Yes Pass On 0 Bid is a special setting wherein you will have a partner and if both of you pick 0 tricks to be taken (a NIL bid), you can pass three cards between the two of you.

Must Take Trick is used to determine whether the players must try to take the trick, even if it means having to over-play or over-trump a trick your partner is certain to take. The default setting is Yes so you must try to take the trick. Setting it to No gives you the freedom to let a trick just go by. Both methods have there own unique flavor of play.


31 SETTINGS

In 31, each player has a certain number of tokens (paper clips, matches, etc) at the start of the game and will play until he/she loses all of these tokens. The Starting Amount setting lets you pick how many tokens each player will start with. It can be from 1 to 8 tokens.

Token Type lets you pick what type of tokens you will play with. The token types are: paper clips, buttons, matches, lifesavers, marbles, poker chips, suckers, and raisins.


99 SETTINGS

In 99, each player has a certain number of tokens (paper clips, matches, etc) at the start of the game and will play until he/she loses all of these tokens. The Starting Amount setting lets you pick how many tokens each player will start with. It can be from 1 to 8 tokens.

Token Type lets you pick what type of tokens you will play with. The token types are: paper clips, buttons, matches, lifesavers, marbles, poker chips, suckers, and raisins.


WHIST SETTINGS

Amount To Win lets you select to what amount the game will go. The standard (and default) amount is 7 but you can make it anything from 1 go 25,000.

In Whist, everything over a certain amount of tricks counts as points. Minimum Tricks indicates that minimum amount. Taking less than this amount results in being set. The default is 6 but it can be anything from 1 to 12.

Play Partners lets you decide whether you want to play "cut-throat" or with a partner. No means that there are no partners and it's everyone for him/herself. Yes (the default) sets you up to play with a partner.


PINOCHLE SETTINGS

Amount To Win lets you select to what amount the game will go. The standard (and default) amount is 1000 but you can make it anything from 1 go 25,000.

In Pinochle, someone must bid something. The Bidding System lets you decide who the "fall guy" will be. Dealer's Left Must Open Bid means that the person to the left of the dealer must open the bid with 100. Dealer Can Have Bid Dropped means that if none of the other three players starts the bid, the Dealer take the bid at 100.  The latter is the default.

Play Partners lets you decide whether you want to play "cut-throat" or with a partner. No means that there are no partners and it's everyone for him/herself. Yes No Passing  (the default) sets you up to play with a partner. Yes With Passing lets you play with a partner and, when you take the deal, lets you get from your partner three of his cards and then you give three cards back.

Point System refers to the way that the cards taken in tricks are counted at the end of each hand. The Original Method has a 9 count 0, Jacks give 2, Queens 3, Kings 4, Tens 10, and Aces 11. The Simplified Method has 9's and Jacks give 0, Queens and Kings give 5, and Tens and Aces give 10. The Standard Method (the default) has 9, Jacks, and Queens counting nothing while Kings, Tens, and Aces give 10 each.


GEORGE SETTINGS

Amount To Win lets you select to what amount the game will go. The standard (and default) amount is 2500 but you can make it anything from 1 go 25,000.


OH HELL SETTINGS

Trump in the game of Oh Hell can vary from hand to hand, depending on this setting.

Upcard means that after each person gets his/her cards, the card on the top of the deck is turned up and its suit will be the trump suit for that hand. The last trick (the thirteenth of the game) is always a no-trump hand since there would be no upcard. This is the default setting.

Always Diamonds, Always Clubs, Always Hearts, and Always Spades naturally would have the appropriate suit be the trump, regardless of anything else.

Always No Trump would not let there be a trump during the entire game.


EUCHRE SETTINGS

Amount To Win lets you select to what amount the game of Euchre will go. The standard (and default) amount is 10 but you can make it anything from 1 go 25,000.

The five cards each player in Euchre gets is usually dealt three to each person and then two to each person.  You can change this to be 2 to each and then 3 to each.

How many cards are in the Euchre deck is determined by the Deck Size selection.  Some people play with a 32-card deck (7's up to Aces) while others play with a 24-card deck (9's up to Aces).  Either way is possible with this switch.


Canasta Settings
CRAZY EIGHTS SETTINGS

 Amount To Win lets you select to what amount the game of Crazy Eights will go. The standard (and default) amount is 1000 but you can make it anything from 1 go 25,000.

Naturally, with a game name of Crazy Eights, the 8's are the wild cards.  Some people, however, play Crazy Jacks, which is just the same except it is the Jacks that are special.  Still others like variety and thus use the first card turned over onto the discard pile as the wild card.  The Crazy Wildcard setting allows you to change this.

The Magic Two option, when used, says that when a player plays a Deuce, any deuce, the next player MUST draw two cards from the stock immediately.

Normally, if a player cannot play a card which matches the suit or rank or is a wild card, he must draw from the stock until he gets a card which will play.  If, however, the Limit of 1 Draw option is set, the player will draw only one card and, if he still cannot play, will just stop his turn.


LISTING OF GAMES

Anyone For Cards? has 12 different card games to offer.  Some are fast, like Euchre, and others are long and considerate, like Pinochle.  Some are easy to play, like 31, and others are more challenging, like Gin.

For those who may not have played a particular game before or who might wish a refresher in the rules and procedures of a game, an explanation for each game can be found here.  As mentioned in the Settings section, each card game can be modified to a certain degree to bring it closer to what the player might consider "normal".

The games included in Anyone For Cards? are:

CRIBBAGE

GIN

HEARTS

SPADES

31

99

WHIST

PINOCHLE

GEORGE

OH HELL

EUCHRE

CRAZY EIGHTS


CRIBBAGE

PLAYERS:

2

CARDS:

Standard deck of 52. The cards rank from King (high) to Ace (low). Face cards count 10, aces count 1, other cards rank their pip value.

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.  Each player gets six cards, dealt one at a time.

THE CRIB:

Each player selects two cards from his hand and these cards are sent face down to the right side of the playing field. This creates an extra hand called the "crib" which belongs to the dealer.

THE STARTER:

Once the crib has been created, the top card is turned over.  This is known as the "starter".  It will make the fifth card in the hand for both players and the crib.  If this starter card is a jack, it is known as His Nobs and the dealer receives 2 points.

THE BOARD:

As points are accumulated, they are registered on a board consisting of 122 peg holes for each player. Pegs are used to mark the current score with the lead peg showing what the score is and the following peg showing what the score just was.

THE PLAY:

First of all, as the cards are played, they are kept separate from the opponent's cards.

The non-dealer begins by playing any of the four cards in his hand. The value of that card is announced aloud and a running total is begun.  The dealer then plays any of his cards and adds the value of that card to the total.  Play will continue as such until the player whose turn it is cannot play without making the total go over 31.  In such an event, he announces a "Go" and the player receives 1 point.  At this time, the count begins again at 0 and once more goes until 31 is reached.

After a GO is received, the other player must play any additional cards he can while still staying under 31.  This may result in his playing two or more cards in a run without the other player doing anything.

If a player should reach 31 on the dot, he receives 2 points.

For playing the last card, he receives 1 point (3 if it also counts as 31).

IN-PLAY SCORING:

Besides the Go and the 31 bonus, it is possible to make other points during the play of the cards, as follows:

15 - making the count 15 - 2 points.

Pairs - playing a card of the same rank as was just played - must be within the same sequence of 31. - 2 points.

Trips - adding a third card to a pair gives 6 points.

Four-Of-A-Kind - adding the fourth card to trips gives 12 points.

Runs - playing a card that is in a sequence of rank with two or more cards within the same group of 31. For example, 5-6-7, 8-9-10, etc.  These need not be in order (e.g., 4-6-5) but cannot be separated by a non-sequence card (e.g., 4-5-J-6). Player receives 1 point per number in the run (3-card run gives 3, 4-card run gives 4, etc.).

POST-PLAY SCORING:

Once the play is over, the players will score their hands.  The non-dealer always goes first, then the dealer, then the dealer's crib.  The starter card is used to make a fifth card belonging to each of the three hands.  The scores that can be achieved are:

15 - for each different combination of cards which add up to 15, 2 points are given.

Pairs - for each pair, 2 points.

Trips - for each set of triplets, 6 points.

Four-Of-A-Kind - for each set of four-of-a-kind, 12 points.

Runs - for each set of runs (3 or more cards in sequence), 1 point per card.

Flushes - for four cards of the same suit in the hand (not counting the starter), 4 points. For all five cards of the same suit, 5 points.

His Nobs - having the jack of the same suit as the starter card, known as His Nobs, 1 point.

Double Run - a three card run with an extra of one (e.g., 4-5-5-6), 8 points.

Double Run of Four - a four card run with an extra of one (e.g., 4,5,5,6,7) 10 points.

Triple Run - a three card run with two extras of one (e.g., 4,5,5,5,6), 15 points.

Quadruple Run - a three card run with an extra of two (e.g., 4,5,5,6,6), 16 points.

Note that a set of cards cannot be used more than once for scoring a run, for example, if a player has 3,4,5,5,6, he has a Double Run of Four which counts 10 points. This is already taking into account the fact that there are two separate runs of 4 for 4 each as well as a pair for another 2.


GIN

PLAYERS:

2

CARDS:

Standard deck of 52. The cards rank from King (high) to Ace (low). Face cards count 10, aces count 1, other cards rank their pip value.

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.  Each player gets 10 cards, dealt face down one at a time. The non-dealer will receive an 11th card.  He will examine his hand and will decide upon a card to throw away, bringing his hand to 10 and creating the first card in the discard pile.  The remaining cards are kept in the deck and are referred to as either the deck or the stock.

Note that some people play with 7 cards each instead of 10.

THE PLAY:

One at a time, each player will draw a card, taking either the top card in the discard pile or the top card in the stock.  He will decide whether to keep the card or not and will either discard that card or another from his hand.  If, upon making this discard, he chooses to knock or gin, he may do so at the same time as discarding. This will mark the end of the hand. If he does not knock or gin, it is the other player's turn.

The hand continues until one or the other player gins or knocks. Should the stock be used up prior to someone ending the hand, the hand ends automatically and no one scores anything.

THE OBJECTIVE:

It is the objective to make matched sets of all of your cards.  A set consists of two types:

1) three or four cards of the same rank (3 4's, 4 7's, etc.).

2) three of more cards of the same suit in sequence (4-5-6 of Clubs, 7-8-9-10 of Diamonds, etc.).

GIN:

Once all of the cards in the player's hand are in matched sets, he can, upon his next discard, announce GIN and the hand ends. He is awarded 25 points for going Gin plus the point total of the opponents unmatched cards.

For example, you went Gin while playing Rod and Rod had the following hand:

AD-AC-AS, 4D-5D-6D-7D, 2H,2S,8H.  The first three cards make a matched set as do the next four cards. The final three cards, however, do not fit into a legal set and therefore would count as points in your hand. In this case, 12 extra points.

KNOCKING:

It is possible to end a hand without having all of your cards in matched sets.  If the total value of your unmatched cards is 10 or less, you make knock while making a discard.

The knock is just like the Gin explained above except that you do not receive the bonus of 25 points. You receive as points the total value of the unmatched cards in your opponent's hand, minus the amount on which you knocked.  For example, if you Knocked on 8 and your opponent had 21 points in unmatched cards in his hand, you would receive 13 points (21-8).

Note that an alternate style of play has the maximum knock value set as the first discard.  Another style is to not allow knocking at all.

UNDERKNOCKING:

If one player knocks on a certain value and the total value of unmatched cards in the opponents hand is less than the amount on which you knocked, you receive nothing and your opponent will receive the difference plus a bonus, usually 25.

For example, you knocked on 8 and your opponent had 3 points in his hand. He underknocked you by 5 points and will therefore receive 30 points (5 of the difference plus 25 bonus).

Note that another style is to have 15 be the bonus instead of 25.

WINNING THE GAME:

The first person to reach the specified game amount (normally 100) wins the game.

There are two forms of scoring.  The first is known as Simplified and is just the score of the game.  The second is Standard and is a bit more complicated.

In the Standard form of scoring, the winner of the game receives an additional bonus of 100 points for winning the game. Each player will then receive 25 points for each hand that he won during the game.  In this method, it is desirable to win the game but winning many hands will also give a lot of points.


HEARTS

PLAYERS:

4 working independently.

CARDS:

Standard deck of 52. The cards rank from Ace (high) to Deuce (low).

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.  The entire deck is dealt out, giving each player 13 cards, dealt face down one at a time.

THE PASS:

After looking at his hand, each player will select three cards to be passed to another player.  These cards can be any in his hand.  The cards are laid in front of the player until all four players have made their selections, then they are passed to the proper recipient.

Note that as variants, the direction of the pass may be altered. It can be made to always be to the left, right, or across. It can be made to go in a sequence (L-R-A) and it can be made to not occur at all (i.e., no passing this hand) or a combination of styles.

THE STARTER:

Depending on the style of game chosen, the person starting the hand will be either the person to the dealer's left (also known as the eldest hand) or the person holding the deuce of clubs (which must be the first card played).

THE PLAY:

The first card is played.  Each player in turn, moving in a clockwise direction, must follow suit to whatever was lead if he can. If he cannot, he can play any card he is holding.

The trick (the group of four cards, one from each player) is won by the player who plays the highest card of the suit that was led.

The winner of the trick leads the card in the next trick.

It is a common rule (in fact, the default) that a Heart cannot be led until they have been "broken".  Breaking Hearts is when a heart is played instead of the led suit.  For instance, if Player 1 led a Diamond and Player 2 had no Diamonds to play, he could instead play a Heart.  If it were the first heart so played, it is considered "breaking Hearts".  This rule can be turned off in the settings.

THE OBJECTIVE:

The desire of the game is to not take points.

THE SCORING:

After each hand, the points are counted up. 1 point is awarded for each heart taken in a trick.  If the Black Lady option is selected, the person holding the Queen of Spades is awarded 13 points.

Since the objective is not to take points, taking tricks that have any hearts or the Queen of Spades is to be avoided.

Note that should one person succeed in taking all thirteen hearts and the Queen of Spades (when it is in effect), each other player is given 26 points!

GAME OVER:

The game is over when at least one person exceeds the game amount (usually 100 points).  The winner of the game is the person with the least amount of points.

If someone should go past the end-of-game amount and there is a tie for the lowest amount, the game continues until there is no longer a tie.


SPADES

PLAYERS:

4 people. The standard way of play is to work in two partnerships. The alternate form is as independents.

CARDS:

Standard deck of 52. The cards rank from Ace (high) to Deuce (low).  Spades is always the trump suit.

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.  The entire deck is dealt out, giving each player 13 cards, dealt face down one at a time.

THE BID:

Starting with the dealer's left, each player in turn, going clockwise, will bid on the number of tricks he thinks he can take.  In the case of partners, the bid for the two partners are added together.  It is not necessary that the sum of the bids for all four people be 13.

If the variant is chosen, it is possible to select a nil bid, thus stating that no tricks will be taken.  If playing partners and this NIL variant is chosen, the partners may exchange three cards.

THE STARTER:

The person to the dealer's left (also known as the eldest hand) is the first person to play.

THE PLAY:

A card is led.  It may be of any suit except Spades, which cannot be led until it has been "broken" by having a spade discard during a previous trick.

Each player in turn, moving in a clockwise direction, must follow suit to whatever was lead if he can. If he cannot, he must play a spade.  The standard rule requires that each player must try to win the trick, therefore, he must play a card higher in the led suit than any thus far in the trick, if he has such a card. If he is out of the led suit but has spades, he must play one and it must be higher than any other spade played thus far in that trick.  A variant to this rules releases the player from this must take trick rule.   Both styles modify greater the feel of the game, almost making two different games.

The trick (the group of four cards, one from each player) is won by the player who plays the highest card of the suit that was led OR the player of the highest spade in the trick.

The winner of the trick leads the card in the next trick.

THE OBJECTIVE:

The desire of the game is to take at least as many tricks as you bid.

THE SCORING:

Each player (or partnership) receives 10 points for each trick bid and taken and 1 point for each additional trick taken. Thus if you bid 4 and took 4, you receive 40 points.  If you bid 4 and take 5, you receive 41 points.

If you fail to take the number you bid, you lose 10 points per bid amount. Thus if you bid 4 but only took 3, you lose 40 points.

Should the NIL bid option be picked and you bid NIL and take none, you receive 100 points. If you bid NIL but take one or more, you lose 100 points.

THE GAME:

The standard game is to 250 points.  The first person (or partnership) to reach that amount wins. Should more than one exceed this amount, the highest wins.


31

PLAYERS:

6 people.

CARDS:

Standard deck of 52. The cards rank from Ace (high) to Deuce (low).  The value of the cards are as follows: Ace = 11, King, Queen, Jack = 10, all other worth their pip value.

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.  Each person receives three cards, dealt face down.  The remainder of the deck is placed in the center of the table and is referred to as the stock.  The top card of the stock is turned face up and starts the discard pile.

THE TOKENS:

At the beginning of each game, every player receives an equal number of tokens.  These can be any small object such as matches, paper clips, jelly beans, etc.  The standard amount with which to start is 3 or 4. But it can be any amount as long as it is equal amounts to all.

THE STARTER:

The person to the dealer's left (also known as the eldest hand) is the first person to play.

THE OBJECTIVE:

The desire of the game is to get cards of the same suit in your hand totalling as close to 31 as you can.  Examples:

a) AC, KD, 7H - the highest total in a suit is in clubs and it is 11.

b) KS, 8S, 4D - the highest total in a suit is in spades and it is 18.

c) JC, 8C, 4C - the highest total in a suit is in clubs and it is 22.

When the hand is over, the person with the lowest total loses and must forfeit a token.

THE PLAY:

The eldest hand leads. He can draw a card from either the stock or the top card of the discard pile. He must discard a card from his hand onto the discard pile.  The play will continue until someone knocks or someone 31's.

THE KNOCK:

Once a person feels his hand is good enough to beat at least one person, he can knock instead of drawing a card.

He does this by simply stating "Knock."  At this time, each other player still in the game has one more chance to play to possibly better his own hand.

If the person who knocked beats at least one person, that lowest person must lose a token (in the case of a tie, all tying low people will lose one).

If the person who knocked fails to beat at least one person, he will lose the token.  (Since in this case he would be the lowest person, it only makes sense.)

THE 31:

If during the play of the game someone gets a hand worth 31 (it would have to be two cards worth 10 each and an ace, all in the same suit, of course), he can declare a 31 immediately and the hand is instantly over with each other player losing a token.

THE FIRST-HAND:

The very first play for the eldest hand in a game (i.e., before he has drawn a card from either the stock or the discard pile) he can elect to perform a first-hand which is a challenge that his virgin hand is better than everybody else's.

Once a first-hand has been declared, everyone shows their hand immediately, no one gets a chance to draw.

If the eldest hand beats everybody, every one but he loses 2 tokens.

If the eldest hand fails to beat everybody, he loses 2 tokens.

First-handing is a very risky proposition to be undertaken with great care and courage.

THE GAME:

The game continues until only one person has any tokens left.  The last person with at least one token wins the game.


99

PLAYERS:

6 people.

CARDS:

Standard deck of 52. The cards rank from Queen (high) to Ace (low).  The value of the cards are as follows: Ace =1, Queen and Jack = 10, all other (except magic cards) worth their pip value.

There are four types of magic cards in the game:

a) Kings - immediately bring the total to 99 (explained later)

b) Tens - reduce the total by 10 (it can go negative).

c) Nines - have no value, they simply pass the play on to the next person unchanged.

d) Fours - do not change the total count but they do reverse the direction of the play (if it was going clockwise, it is now counter-clockwise. if it was going counter-clockwise, it is now going clockwise).

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.  Each person receives three cards, dealt face down.  The remainder of the deck is placed in the center of the table and is referred to as the stock.  There will be a discard pile once the game is started. It is initially empty. It is be for discarding only; there is no pickup from this pile allowed.

THE TOKENS:

At the beginning of each game, every player receives an equal number of tokens.  These can be any small object such as matches, paper clips, jelly beans, etc.  The standard amount with which to start is 3 or 4. But it can be any amount as long as it is equal amounts to all.

THE STARTER:

The person to the dealer's left (also known as the eldest hand) is the first person to play.

THE OBJECTIVE:

The object of the game is to bring a count of discarded cards to 99.  It may not go over the 99 limit.  The hand continues until one person cannot make a play.

THE PLAY:

The eldest hand leads.  He will play a card by placing it face up on the discard pile and adding the value of that card to the total.  He must then draw a card from the stock to replace the card he just played.  Play then moves to the next person in an initial clockwise direction.

For example. The eldest hand starts by playing the Queen of Clubs. The count is now 10.  The next player plays the 8 of Diamonds.  The count is now 18.  The next person plays the Jack of Spades.  The count is 28.  The game thus continues until the count get high enough that one person does not have a legal play.

Playing a King instantly sets the total count to 99.  If it was already 99, it stays at 99.

Playing a 10 reduces the count by 10.  If the count was 97, it would become 87. If it was 8, it would become -2.

Playing a 9 simply moves the play pass the player to the next person, leaving the count unchanged.  It is in essence a free pass card.

Playing a 4 reverses the flow of play without changing the value of the count.

Once the count is at a point that a player has no valid play (he has no magic cards and no cards which will bring the count to but not over 99), the hand is through. The person who could not make a play loses the hand and must forfeit a token.

THE GAME:

The game continues until only one person has any tokens left.  The last person with at least one token wins the game.


WHIST

PLAYERS:

4 people. The standard way of play is to work in two partnerships. The alternate form is as independents.

CARDS:

Standard deck of 52. The cards rank from Ace (high) to Deuce (low).

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.  The entire deck is dealt out, giving each player 13 cards, dealt face down one at a time.  The last card dealt, which will belong to the dealer, is turned face up for all to see.  The suit of this card is the trump suit.

THE STARTER:

The person to the dealer's left (also known as the eldest hand) is the first person to play.

THE PLAY:

A card is led.  It may be of any suit.

Each player in turn, moving in a clockwise direction, must follow suit to whatever was lead if he can. If he cannot, he may play any card from his hand he desires.

The trick (the group of four cards, one from each player) is won by the player who plays the highest card of the suit that was led OR the player of the highest trump in the trick.

The winner of the trick leads the card in the next trick.

THE OBJECTIVE:

The desire of the game is to take at least as many tricks as you can.  You must take at least one more than six tricks to score any points.

THE SCORING:

Each trick in excess of six will count for 1 point.  Failing to get more than six tricks results in getting nothing.  Since there are only 13 tricks available, only one partnership can actually score any points per hand.

THE GAME:

The standard game is to 7 points.  The first person (or partnership) to reach that amount wins.


PINOCHLE

PLAYERS:

4 people. The standard way of play is to work in two partnerships. The alternate form is as independents.  While there are several styles of Pinochle, this program uses the Partnership Auction Pinochle style as its basis.

CARDS:

A Pinochle deck of 48.  There are two cards in each rank going from 9 to Ace. the ranking is (highest to lowest): Ace, 10, King, Queen, Jack, 9.  If in play two of the same rank and suit are played, the first one played is the higher.

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.  The entire deck is dealt out, giving each player 12 cards, dealt face down three at a time.

THE BIDDING:

Beginning with the person to the dealer's left (known as the eldest hand), each player in turn will have a chance to either place his bid or to pass which would drop him from the bidding process.  Bidding starts at a value of 100 and is done in multiples of 10.  No suit is mentioned, only a value.

The bid continues in a clockwise direction.  Once a player has passed, he cannot reenter the bidding process.  The bidding is over when all but one person has passed.  This person, having made the highest bid, is the bidder.  He will then name the trump suit for this hand.  In order to name the trump, however, he must have either a Marriage or a Dix (explained later) in the desired suit.  Failing that, his side will be set.

THE MELD:

Once the bidding procedure is through and trump has been named, all players may meld their cards.  Meld is a group of cards which have a certain value.  For example, having an ace in all four suits is a type of meld known as 100-Aces and is worth 100 points.  Cards used in one combination may be used in other combinations as well.

Each person shows his meld and calls out what that meld is.  They are left exposed to the other players until all four people have stated their meld.  The value of the melds are recorded for possible use later.

The melds used in this game, and their values, are:

A-K-Q-J-10 of trumps	Run or Flush	150

A-A-K-K-Q-Q-J-J-10-10/trumps	Double Run	1500

K-Q of trumps	Royal Marriage	40

K-Q of any other suit	Marriage	20

AD-AC-AH-AS	100 Aces	100

All 8 Aces	1000 Aces	1000

KD-KC-KH-KS	80 Kings	80

All 8 Kings	800 Kings	800

QD-QC-QH-QS	60 Queens	60

All 8 Queens	600 Queens	600

JD-JC-JH-JS	40 Jacks	40

All 8 Jacks	400 Jacks	400

QS-JD	Pinochle	40

QS-QS-JD-JD	Double Pinochle	300

9 of trumps	Dix	10

Both 9's of trumps	Double Dix	20

THE STARTER:

The bidder, that is, the one who took the bid, is the first person to play.  He may play any card he desires.

THE PLAY:

A card is led.  It may be of any suit.

Each player in turn, moving in a clockwise direction, must follow suit to whatever was lead if he can. If he cannot, he must trump if he can.  If he cannot follow suit and he cannot trump, he may play any card from his hand he desires.

The trick (the group of four cards, one from each player) is won by the player who plays the highest card of the suit that was led OR the player of the highest trump in the trick.  If duplicate cards are played in the trick (e.g., both Kings of Diamonds), the first one played is considered the higher.

The winner of the trick leads the card in the next trick.

THE OBJECTIVE:

The desire of the game is to take tricks with cards of count value.  Taking the last trick will give an additional 10 points.

THE SCORING:

Once the play is over, each person looks through the cards of the tricks that he took (in partnership, tricks from the each partner are put together).  Cards of count value are added up. Cards of no count value are ignored.

Depending on the counting system employed, the count values are:

Card	            Original   Simplified   Standard

Ace	11	10	10

Ten	10	10	10

King	 4	 5	10

Queen	 3	 5	 0

Jack	 2	 0	 0

Nine	 0	 0	 0

Once the count value of the cards in the tricks has been determined, this value is added to the last trick bonus, if applicable, and to the total meld that player or partnership had.  One major rule concerning the meld is that the player or partnership must take at least one trick in order to count their meld.

If the bidder's side won at least as many points as his bid, he receives that many points.  If his side won less than the bid amount, his side goes set and will lose the amount of the bid.

The opponent's side receive as points the total of the count value plus their meld, assuming they also took at least one trick.

THE GAME:

The standard game is to 1000 points.  The first person (or partnership) to reach that amount wins.  Should both sides exceed the game amount, the side with the higher score wins the game.


OH HELL

PLAYERS:

4 people. Each person plays for himself.

CARDS:

A regular deck of 52.  The Ace ranks the highest. The Deuce ranks the lowest.

THE GAME:

There are a fixed number of hands in the game.  In the first hand, each person will receive 1 card. In the second hand, each gets 2 cards.  In the third, each gets 3 cards.  And so on until the final hand where each person will receive 13 cards.

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.  The number of the hand will dictate the number of cards dealt.  After the cards have been dealt, face down, the next card on the top of the deck is turned over for all to see.  The suit of this upturned card will determine the trump for that hand.  In the case of the last hand where all thirteen cards have been dealt out and there is nothing left in the deck, there is no trump.

THE BIDDING:

Beginning with the person to the dealer's left (known as the eldest hand), each player in turn will have a chance to place his bid.  This bid is how many tricks the person feels he will take.  This is one of the most critical aspects of the game because a person gains points by taking the number he bid, no more and no less.

If he bids 3 and takes 2 or less, he gets nothing.  If he bids 3 and takes 4 or more, he gets nothing.  He only gets points for taking exactly as many as he had bid.

THE STARTER:

The eldest hand is the first person to play.  He may play any card he desires.

THE PLAY:

A card is led.  It may be of any suit.

Each player in turn, moving in a clockwise direction, must follow suit to whatever was lead if he can. If he cannot, he may play any card from his hand he desires.

The trick (the group of four cards, one from each player) is won by the player who plays the highest card of the suit that was led OR the player of the highest trump in the trick.

The winner of the trick leads the card in the next trick.

THE OBJECTIVE:

The desire of the game is to take exactly the number of tricks that you have bid, no more and no less.

THE SCORING:

A person who takes less than his bid or more than his bid busts and gets no points for that hand.  A person who takes exactly as many tricks as he bid receives 10 points plus the amount of the bid.

For example, a person bidding and making 4 would receive 14 points.  A bid/make of 6 would receive 16 points.

THE GAME:

After all thirteen hands have been played, the person with the highest score wins.


GEORGE

PLAYERS:

4 people. Each person plays for himself.

CARDS:

Two regular decks of 52 with the deuces removed, leaving 96 cards.

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.

The dealer moves from one player to another in a clockwise direction.  He first deals a card to a player face up.  The value of this card will determine the number of cards that player will have to play with this hand:  a 3 gives 3 cards, a 6 gives 6 cards, etc.  Jacks give 11, Queens 12, Kings 13.  Aces are special and will give 15 cards.

Once the amount due a player is determined, that number of cards (minus one) are dealt to the player face down so that the player then has the required number in cards.  For example, if Tony is dealt a 4, he will be given an additional three cards to bring his total to 4.  He can at this time pick up the initial 4 and put it in his hand with the other cards.

The upcard for the dealer is special.  In addition to showing how many cards the dealer will have to work with, it also establishes the wildcard for that hand.  If, for example, the dealer deals himself a 7, he will be playing with 7 cards and each 7 in the deck is considered wild.

The remainder of the deck is placed in the center of the table and is referred to as the stock.

THE STARTER:

The player to the dealer's left is called the eldest hand and  is the first person to play.

THE PLAY:

In turn, each player may draw a card from the top of the stock or, within the rules listed below, from the discard pile.

After drawing a card or cards, he may meld cards to score points.  He may also add to his previously melded cards.  Finally, he may spec on the meld of other players.

Once he is done with his melding, adding, and specing, he must discard a card and the play moves to the next player.

The game is over when one person has melded, added, or spec'd every card in his hand.

THE MELD:

Melding cards consists of laying down in front of him sets of cards.  A set is three or more cards of the same rank (3 4's, 3 6's, 3 8's, etc.).

If he is holding 3 4's, for example, he announces that he is melding something and then lays down those three 4's in a little pile separate from his other meld.  All three's melded go into one stack.  All four's melded go into another stack, etc.

THE ADD:

If a player has already melded three 5's, for example, and now has an additional 5, he may add it to the stack of 5's on the table before him by announcing that he is adding to an existing stack.

THE SPEC:

If a player has a 5 and an opponent has a stack of 5's, the player may lay down his 5 in front of himself by announcing that he is spec-ing  on the opponent's meld.

THE WILDCARDS:

Wildcards are used instead of and in addition to cards in a set.  They can therefore represent anything.  If a player has 2 4's and a wildcard, he can legally meld those three cards in a stack of 4's.  The only limitation to using wildcards is that there must be more natural cards in a stack than wildcards.  For example, the player could have 2 4's and a wildcard but could not have 2 wildcards and one 4.

THE OBJECTIVE:

To win the game, a player must create as many sets as possible and go out at such a time as to catch his opponents with a lot of points in their hands.

GETTING FROM THE DISCARD PILE:

A player may draw from anywhere in the discard pile that he desires as long as the bottom-most card he picks up is immediately used in a meld, add, or spec.  More than one may be used, of course, but that bottom one must be used.  Two additional rules apply when picking from the discard pile.  One, you cannot pick up a wild card as the selected card.  Two, you must have at least two naturals in your hand in order to pick up the selected card (if you wish to pick up from a 4 in the discard pile, you must have at least two 4's in your hand).

In discarding after picking up more than one card from the discard pile, only one card is put down, the remaining cards stay in the player's hand.

THE SCORING:

A player will earn as a score points based on the value of cards melded, added, or spec'd, as follows:

Aces = 100

3-7 = 5

8+ = 10

Wildcards = 100

A player loses points still in his hand at the time someone goes out. The points lost are the same as listed above.

THE GAME:

The game is over when one person's score reaches the specified game amount, normally 2500.


EUCHRE

PLAYERS:

4 people, played in two partnerships.

CARDS:

The size of the deck can be adjusted via the Euchre settings.  It will be either a deck of 32 or 24 cards.  The cards range from 7(9) up to Ace.  The rank of the cards is generally normal with the 7(9) being lowest and the Ace being highest.  The difference is in the value of the Jacks.  The highest card is the Jack of the trump suit, referred to as the Right Bower.  The next highest card is the Jack of the suit of the same color as the trump suit, referred to as the Left Bower.  After that, the rank remain normal.

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.  Five cards will be dealt to each player, usually in a 3-2 combination.  The cards are dealt in a clockwise direction.

Once the cards have been dealt, there will be 4 cards left in the deck.  The top card will be turned over and shown to all players.  This upcard shows the proposed trump for this hand.

TRUMP SELECTION:

The person to the dealer's left (known as the eldest hand) may either pass or accept the trump.  He accepts it by stating, "I order it up."

If it is accepted, the dealer will take the upcard into his hand and will discard a different card from his hand to bring his count back to five.  The play will then begin.

If he passes, the choice moves on to the next player.

If all four players pass on the choice, the upcard is turned back face down.  Starting again at the eldest hand, the choice is offered to name the trump to be used (it cannot be the suit of the upcard which was just rejected).

If a suit is named, play will begin.

If he passes, the choice moves on to the next player.

If all four players pass on the naming round, the hand is thrown in and another deal is done.

THE MAKER:

Whoever decides the trump for the hand, either by accepting the proposed trump in the first round or by naming the trump in the second round, becomes the maker.

PLAYING IT ALONE:

The maker of the trump for that particular hand has the right to "play it alone."  He states the same out loud right after trump is determined.  When the hand is being played alone, the partner of the maker does nothing and his cards are simply discarded.  Playing it alone is useful when the maker is certain of taking all the tricks and can result in more points if successful.

THE STARTER:

If being played alone, the starter is the person to the left of the maker.  If being played normally, the starter is the eldest hand (i.e., the left of the dealer).

THE PLAY:

A card is led.  It may be of any suit.

Each player in turn, moving in a clockwise direction, must follow suit to whatever was lead if he can. If he cannot, he may play any card in his hand.

The trick (the group of four cards, one from each player) is won by the player who plays the highest card of the suit that was led OR the player of the highest trump in the trick.  For the purposes of determining who won the trick, the left bower, despite being of another suit, is considered a trump suit.

The winner of the trick leads the card in the next trick.

THE SCORING:

If the partnership of the maker of trump takes three or four tricks, they receive 1 point.  If they take all five tricks (known as marching, they get 2 points (4 points if playing alone).

If the maker partnership is unable to take at least three tricks (i.e., the opposition takes three or more), the maker is said to have been euchred and the opposition will get 2 points.

THE GAME:

The standard game is to 10 points.  The first person (or partnership) to reach that amount wins.


CRAZY EIGHTS

PLAYERS:

4 people, everyone for themselves.

CARDS:

One regular deck of 52.  The ranking is unimportant.

THE DEAL:

The deal alternates between players.

Each player will receive 5 cards, one at a time face down.

The remainder of the deck is placed in the center of the table and is referred to as the stock.  The top card is turned up and placed in the discard pile.

THE STARTER:

The player to the dealer's left is called the eldest hand and is the first person to play.

THE PLAY:

In turn, each player must play a card which matches either the suit or the rank of the top card on the discard pile.  If he is unable, or does not wish to play a card, he may draw from the stock until he comes to a card he does wish to play.  However, his turn does not end until he has played a legal card.  The wild card (usually an 8, hence the name) can be played instead of a legal card.  When it is played, the player can name any of the four suits as the current suit.

The game is over when one person has played every card in his hand.

WILD CARDS:

The most standard method of play has the Eight being the wild card.  A popular alternative, however, is to have the Jack be the wild card.  Far less common, but still allowed here, is the practice of using the first card turned into the discard pile as the wild card.

THE OBJECTIVE:

To win the hand, the player must play all his cards before his opponents do.

THE SCORING:

The winner receives the points from the other three players.  The points are worth:

  Wild cards = 50

  Face cards = 10

  All others = pip value

THE GAME:

The game is over when one person's score reaches the specified game amount, normally 1000.

MAGIC TWO'S:

An optional portion of the game regards the deuces.  If this option is selected, whenever a player plays a two, the next player must draw two cards from the stock if there are any cards left.


PARTICIPANTS

There are 18 different people visiting the home of Reynold and Viola.  Any of them are capable of playing any of the games, although they have differing levels of skills.  The people are:

ROD

SLY

JANINE

HILLARY

MARGO

RALPH

BIF

ATARU

GORDON

ROBERT

REYNOLD

VIOLA

NEWT

JENNIFER

TONY

YAHBOT

DARLEEN

SHARON


ROD

"Hi, I'm a computer salesman.  My degree was in Mechanic Engineering, and I'm still a bachelor, but if you're interested, you can come over to my place sometime. Yeh, I keep myself in shape, even have a weight bench in my apartment.  Can you tell I'm over thirty?  And don't let my lady friend scare you away, she's just a friend.  Cards?  Well, I'm good at cards, but I prefer computer games, or something more personal.  Just don't try to pin me down.  I like my motorcycle and my freedom. Heh, did I ever tell you I was at Woodstock?",

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage =  Expert

Gin = Good

Hearts = Fair

Spades =  Novice

31 = Fair

99 =  Good

Whist = Good

Pinochle = Good

George = Novice

Oh Hell = Fair

Euchre = Good

Crazy Eights = Fair


SLY

"I'm in management, sales.  I can outsell anyone on my staff, I'm the best, the kingpin.  You haven't got a chance against me.  I'm good, and the world knows it, just ask anybody.  Hey, just look at my new BMW, I only go for the top of the line.  So what if a few people get stepped on, that's the business world, and I haven't got time to put up with a woss.  I'm from Chicago, we don't put up with dumbos, ok?  What?  You want to play?  Well, just get in line because there's a lot of people think they're better'n me.  I'll show you all.",

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = Expert

Gin = Good

Hearts = Expert

Spades =  Good

31 =  Expert

99 =  Good

Whist = Expert

Pinochle = Good

George = Expert

Oh Hell = Good

Euchre = Expert

Crazy Eights = Fair


JANINE

"Well, hi there.  I prefer a good work out or a game of  racquetball, but I'll play cards, sure.  Me?  Well, I have a doctorate in physical education, and I work for the University.  Sportsmanship is important in any game, so let's a have a friendly game.  Everyone says I'm a good sport I have to be to live in the D. C. area, you know?  Ha!  See, I'm not into politics.  My husband and I just like getting together with friends.  Would you like to play?",

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = Fair

Gin = Novice

Hearts = Fair

Spades = Good

31 = Expert

99 = Good

Whist = Good

Pinochle = Good

George = Good

Oh Hell = Good

Euchre = Expert

Crazy Eights = Good


HILLARY

"Hello, I'm Hillary.  I'm from the Midwest, went to school in New England and married very powerful man.  I like being the power behind the man, it's an opportunity to put my steel trap mind to work for the good of humanity.  I should warn you, in all honesty, I'm an expert at cards.  I like organizing the games as much as playing them!  And, please, don't make me play with that boor, Sly.  I cannot abide fools, braggarts, or boors."

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = Expert

Gin = Expert

Hearts = Expert

Spades = Expert

31 = Expert

99 = Expert

Whist = Expert

Pinochle = Expert

George = Expert

Oh Hell = Expert

Euchre = Expert

Crazy Eights = Expert


MARGO

"I'm sure I don't have the time to tell you anything about myself but since you really should know, I don't like to waste my time.  You really should do something about your posture, you know.  I'm married, or what amounts to a marriage, to Ralph who could use a lot of improvement.  I could give you some suggestions on your hairstyle, you know.  I have three daughters who are all wrecks and who never listen to a word I say.  Do you really think that color works on you?  Never mind.  Since we're here, we might as well play cards.

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = Good

Gin = Fair

Hearts = Good

Spades = Fair

31 = Good

99 =  Fair

Whist = Good

Pinochle = Fair

George = Good

Oh Hell = Fair

Euchre = Good

Crazy Eights = Fair


RALPH

"Hi. I'm Ralph. I'm, you know, pretty easy-going, married, with three daughters.  I'm a repairman.  My wife says I'm, you know, a little overweight cause all I do is watch TV and play cards.  My wife, she doesn't, you know, let me gamble, but I can play these card games ok.  You know, what I'd really like to do is try my luck in Vegas.  You bet you sweet backside I'd make it rich if I had the chance but my wife says no.  My wife says no about most things.  Not that I mind, you know.  I wouldn't have the nerve to mind."

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = Fair

Gin = Novice

Hearts = Fair

Spades = Novice

31 = Fair

99 = Novice

Whist = Fair

Pinochle = Novice

George = Fair

Oh Hell = Novice

Euchre = Fair

Crazy Eights = Novice


BIF

"Hey baby, I'm your love machine.  Yep, the babes eat me up, if you know what I mean.  I take them to their fantasy land, just ask them.  What's not to like?  What they can see and touch is what they get muscles!  I almost went pro after college football, but I got this bum knee.  Hey, have you ever played a practical joke?  Love 'em.  Sure, I grew up in California, that's the look women love, but I've relocated to Texas.  It's my kind of place.",

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = fair

Gin = fair

Hearts = fair

Spades = fair

31 = fair

99 = fair

Whist = fair

Pinochle = fair

George = fair

Oh Hell = fair

Euchre = fair

Crazy Eights = fair


ATARU

"Hi, I'm Ataru.  My friends call me Roo.  I'm a junior in college, Pre-Med, but I'm thinking of changing to law.  My folks really want me to be a professional.  Secretly, though, I was in this student production, and I ADORE acting.  My friends say I lose my shyness.  Yes, when I'm acting, I can pretend to be strong, self-confident, you know.",

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = fair

Gin = fair

Hearts = good

Spades = good

31 = expert

99 = expert

Whist = fair

Pinochle = fair

George = good

Oh Hell = good

Euchre = novice

Crazy Eights = good


GORDON

"I'm Gordon.  I work as the part-time assistant to the night manager of the local pizzeria.  Yeah, school was a drag.  (Giggle)  I get to watch Star Trek films all I want and I've been going to all the Trek conventions locally.  (Giggle)  Hey, don't call me a nerd.  I don't deserve that!  I don't go 'round calling you names.  You're probably the type that doesn't tip, too.  Cards?  Well, gees, yeah, guess I got some time.  What we playing?"

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = expert

Gin = novice

Hearts = novice

Spades =  novice

31 = novice

99 = novice

Whist = novice

Pinochle = novice

George = expert

Oh Hell = novice

Euchre = novice

Crazy Eights = good


ROBERT

"My name is Robert, and I'm the owner of a Taco Delight franchise.  This year I should make my first million.  Not bad for 35 years old.  Do you like jazz?  I'm from a little parish just outside New Orleans, so I'm an avid fan, play a mean sax myself with some friends at a little local club a friend of mine owns.  I'm divorced, but we're still friends.  Yes, my daughter lives with me, she's a good kid.  My voice?  It is a deep baritone, isn't it?  And I rumble when I laugh, so I always get the role of Santa at my church Christmas pageant."

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = good

Gin = expert

Hearts = good

Spades = expert

31 = good

99 = expert

Whist = good

Pinochle = expert

George = good

Oh Hell = expert

Euchre = good

Crazy Eights = fair


REYNOLD

"Hi.  I'm Reynold and I've had 65 years or so to get this good at cards.   I'm from South Dakota.  Yup, I'm a grandfather their grumpy grandpa, the little monsters.  I didn't raise my kids to be disrespectful, or lazy.  Well, guess my wife would say I can be a grump, too, on my bad days.  But she thinks I flirt too much with the young ladies when we play cards, and that also drives her crazy.   Now, are we going to play or not?  What's taking so long?  Let's go going if we're going to go!"

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = good

Gin = expert

Hearts = expert

Spades = good

31 = good

99 = good

Whist = expert

Pinochle = good

George = expert

Oh Hell = expert

Euchre = novice

Crazy Eights = novice


VIOLA

"I'm Viola.  Have you met Reynold, my husband?  We retired to Arizona, and there's a bunch of us that get together to play cards.  Some of the games in this set I taught to the game programmer.  Oh, I'm 'Mom' or 'Grandma' to just about everyone, but back in Sun Valley, I'm the spry youngster!  We have a band, too.  I love to play keyboards.  I play a mean game of cribbage and pinochle.  But, let me warn you, I don't like to partner with that grumpy husband of mine.  He's just too much when he wins."

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = expert

Gin = good

Hearts = good

Spades = expert

31 = good

99 = good

Whist = fair

Pinochle = expert

George = good

Oh Hell = good

Euchre = good

Crazy Eights = good


NEWT

"My name is Newt, and I'm very smart.  I'm four years old.  My daddy says I was raised on his knee at his computer keyboard.  I got my own computer before I could read or write.  Mom gave me some playing cards when I was big enough to hold them.  I love to play, but Mom says I'm 'mischievous.'  I am NOT.  I'm just 'precious'  I'm something they call a 'child protege.'  Were you ever a child protege?  Would you like to play cards?"

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = expert

Gin = expert

Hearts = expert

Spades = expert

31 = expert

99 = expert

Whist = expert

Pinochle = expert

George = expert

Oh Hell = expert

Euchre = expert

Crazy Eights = expert


JENNIFER

"Hey, my name is Jennifer.  I hate the name!  I'm from the south, and I'm only 16.  My boyfriend says I'm sweet and soft spoken, a real oldimey Southern belle with hair down to my waist.  But I really love mathematics, and playing soccer and reading, too.  Momma is strict, so no swearing and no gambling, but you know she taught me to play cards, that is, as long as they are wholesome games.  I love gin rummy and 99.  Momma says I'll have time for other kinds of games when I'm older."

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = novice

Gin = expert

Hearts = novice

Spades = novice

31 = fair

99 = good

Whist = novice

Pinochle = novice

George = good

Oh Hell = good

Euchre = novice

Crazy Eights = expert


TONY

"I'm Tony and I LOVE to do magic.  I can do wonders with the cards, some of which I probably shouldn't.  Girls like my mischievous grin.  They like me, too, and I'm starting to like girls back, so I guess it's ok.  I play cards intensely I want to WIN but sometimes I love to  crack a joke, because, you know, life shouldn't be so serious when you're 12 years old like me.  I want to have a job for which I have to read comic books when I grow up."

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = fair

Gin = good

Hearts = fair

Spades = good

31 = fair

99 = good

Whist = fair

Pinochle = good

George = fair

Oh Hell = good

Euchre = fair

Crazy Eights = expert


YAHBOT

"My name is Yahbot.  I am a Beta-Class robot created by JCO.  I have been 'early-retired' during the last restructuring.  I earn a living programming VCRs for humans who are not capable of such advanced technologically oriented logic.   I compete with 'interesting' humans.  But I have difficultly with certain nuances in the logic of some card games.  Cribbage I understand.  I am capable of advanced play on Gin.  Pinochle I cannot play with advanced skill.  Would you like to play some cards?  To repeat this message, say 'repeat' aloud."

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = good

Gin = expert

Hearts = good

Spades = good

31 = good

99 = good

Whist = good

Pinochle = fair

George = good

Oh Hell = good

Euchre = good

Crazy Eights = good


DARLEEN

"Sugar, I'm from Colorado and my name is Darleen. You are just too cute for words.  I'm not a flirt.  Up in the Rockies, everyone watches out for each other and I make sure there's plenty to see when I'm skiing the slopes in those cute, tight ski pants.  Ha!Ha! Now, you sound as skeptical as my ex-husbands.  Well, Suge, never again for me.  I love 'em, get 'em begging for more, you know, but I get bored if'n its not real excitin'.  For fun, how'd you like to play some cards? You'll like the way I play."

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = good

Gin = fair

Hearts = good

Spades = fair

31 = good

99 = fair

Whist = good

Pinochle = fair

George = good

Oh Hell = fair

Euchre = good

Crazy Eights = fair


SHARON

"Well, hello. I'm Sharon.  I have a reputation for being a dumb blonde but once you spend time with me you'll see it's not just a reputation.  I mean, it's not always the way it usually is, if you know what I mean.  I have a boyfriend, when I'm not all by myself but right now there's no one with me so I guess I'm kinda alone.  I love to play cards unless it gets real intense cause then people get mad at the way that I play which is just fine as long as you're not so all-fired determined to, you know, really do good or anything.  Is any of this making sense?"

GAME SKILL:

Cribbage = expert

Gin = good

Hearts = fair

Spades = novice

31 = expert

99 = good

Whist = fair

Pinochle = novice

George = expert

Oh Hell = good

Euchre = fair

Crazy Eights = novice