y'all @ the south: culture, tradition & life in dixie

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After the tour, hit the juke joint
By John T. Edge

Believe it or not, Holly Springs, Mississippi (a 30 minute drive from either Oxford, Mississippi or Memphis) warrants a day's worth of exploring. Follow these instructions carefully: Sleep late. You'll need the energy; you're going jukin' later. Arrive early Sunday evening. Proceed directly to Graceland Too. After your hourlong tour, check into one of the cheap hotels at the intersection of Highways 78 and 7. Around 9 p.m., get in the car and head south on Highway 7 for 1 mile. Turn right onto Highway 4. Go 10 miles. At the crest of the hill, Junior's Juke Joint will be on your right. Junior's ain't no bar for posers. Act nice; fork over the $2 cover charge, order a Bud and count yourself lucky to see one of the last great country bluesmen on his home turf. The place is infectious. Rhythm challenged or not, you will dance. And you will sweat -- profusely. Monday morning won't be pretty -- especially if you drank some of that moonshine everyone kept passing around at Junior's. Recovery in progress, your tummy cries out for a good greasy hamburger. Around 11 a.m., head to Phillips Grocery located just across from the old train station. You will not be disappointed. Need directions? Hell, I've told you enough. It's a small town; you can find it on your own.

In a rare photo, John T. bends the ear of bluesman Junior Kimbrough
Photo by friends of John T. Edge

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