Collector Briefcase
TIME REQUIRED: All day (time needed for cutting, building, and assembling project; does not include drying time of glue or finish)

A prized collection of miniature cars, ceramic horses, or any other treasured items can be protected and showcased in our briefcase. We used a piece of inexpensive acrylic window panel for the sides so you can see your collectibles from all angles.

Although small, this project requires considerable time because many small pieces must be cut and assembled. But your time will be well spent because you'll have a lasting showcase for any important collection. And the case is portable so you can carry it around with you to show it to friends.

We sized the briefcase for Hot Wheels or Matchbox cars, but you can change the size of the spacers, adjusting the height of shelves to accommodate just about any small collectible item. You can also cut more spacers and position them to make compartments for each of your treasures.

Cutting spacers and trim pieces will take as much time as the actual assembly. Begin by cutting the 1x4 pine stock into two 14 inch long pieces for the top (A)
and bottom (B). Then lay out a 2 inch width on the piece that will be used for the bottom, and clamp a straight piece of scrap along this line to help guide your saw as you cut B to width. Do the same for A, only cut it 1 3/4 inch wide to allow clearance for the movable acrylic front pane.

The sides (C) are cut from 2 inch wide lattice. Use a wood miter box to ensure square cuts. Measure their length according to the Cutting List, and cut them to size. Your shelves are cut from lattice 1 3/4 inch wide. Measure them, and cut to size, following the Cutting List.

Since there are eight spacers (E) all the same size, use a stop block to help cut the pieces. Place a scrap of wood 1 1/2 inch from the cutting slot of the miter box, and clamp it to your table or miter box. Then push the 1 3/4 inch lattice down the miter box until it hits, stop, and make your cut. Keep pushing the lattice along until it stops, cut, and go on. While one carpenter is cutting, the other can be sanding the parts.

Cut the top trim (F) and side trim (G) to length from 1 inch wide lattice. Don't cut the bottom trim (H) to length yet.

Your local hardware store will cut acrylic panes (I and J) for you, or you can purchase a standard size panel large enough to cut both from. Acrylic may be scored with a sharp knife and then carefully cracked along the score line.

After all this cutting, the assembly is easy. Put glue on one end of the top (A), and nail the side (C) flush with the top and even with its back. The side will extend beyond the top at the front because the side is wider than the top. Use 7/8 inch wire brads for
nails, and place them back from the edges of the sides to prevent splitting. Repeat for the bottom (B).

Turn the case over, and glue and nail up the other side. Be sure to align the top and side as you did on the other end. Remember that the top is narrower than the sides.

First glue and nail the top and side trim (F and G) in place with 7/8 inch wire brads on the back of the case. Align the trim pieces flush with the sides and square at the ends. When nailing on the side trim, take care to drive the nails in carefully to avoid splitting
the narrow side piece.

Measure the distance between the side trim pieces to get an exact fit for the bottom trim (H). Cut it to this measurement. Nail and glue into place. Then sink all nail heads with a nail set.

Turn the case over, and insert the back pane (J) into the case. Your spacers and shelves go in next. Put a drop of glue on the back of a spacer and place it snugly against the inside and bottom of the case; place another spacer in the opposite corner. All spacers and
shelves are 1/4 inch short of the front edge of the sides to leave room for the sliding front pane.

Put the first shelf in place, pushing it down against the spacers. Glue up two more spacers, and place them tightly against the inside and top of the first shelf to hold it in place. Then insert the next shelf, and repeat for all spacers and shelves. Place a small amount of glue on the ends of the top shelf and
push it into place; it doesn't need a spacer above it.

The front trim is glued and nailed into place the same way as the back trim. The top trim is only glued to the front edge of the side, leaving a 1/4 inch gap behind it for the front pane to slide into.

We used a modern-style drawer pull for a handle, but you can choose whatever style suits your taste. Drill holes for your handle according to installation instructions furnished by the manufacturer.

A natural finish of tung oil is used to highlight the pine. If you decide to stain your case, apply sealer to the end grain of the pine, or else those parts will absorb more stain than the sides and turn out much darker.

Click here for the full sized building diagram:


Shopping List
Materials Quantity
1x4 pine3'
2" lattice pine3'
1" lattice10'
1 3/4" lattice10'
1/8"acrylic window pane14" X 20"
drawer pull1
7/8" wire bradssmall box
carpenter's wood gluesmall bottle
number 120 sandpaper2 sheets
paint, stain or finish1 pint

Cutting List
Part/Name Quantity Size Material
A/Top1 3/4" X 1 7/8" X 14"pine
B/Bottom1 3/4" X 2" X 14"pine
C/Side2 1/4" X 2" X 10"pine lattice
D/Shelf4 1/4" X 1 3/4" X 14"pine lattice
E/Spacers8 1/4" X 1 3/4" X 1 1/2"pine lattice
F/Top trim2 1/4" X 1" X 14 1/2"pine lattice
G/Side trim2 1/4" X 1" X 9"pine lattice
H/Bottom trim2 1/4" X 1" X 12 1/2"pine lattice
I/Front pane1 1/8" X 9 1/4" X 14"acrylic
J Back pane1 1/8" X 8 1/2" X 14"acrylic

Build It Together by Gene and Katie Hamilton (Stackpole Books)
copyright HouseNet, Inc 1996









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