Replace a Faucet in an Existing Sink | |
Next, take a good look at the rigid pipes serving your existing faucet. Are they made of copper, galvanized iron or plastic? Are there shut-off valves between permanent piping and su,,pply tubes? If not, will the job last long enough to warrant capping the pipes? If the permanent piping is made of iron, will you need male adapters or female adapters? Do you want to spend the extra money now to install shut-off valves between pipes and supply tubes? And finally, what kind of supply tubes will work best between piping and faucet. These are all questions you should ask yourself before you turn a wrench. They are not difficult questions, but ones that need answers up front. Getting the Old Faucet Out (Top Mount) Getting an old faucet out can be difficult, especially if the fastening nuts, (also called jamb nuts or lock nuts), are made of a non-compatible metal. In these cases, electrolysis can fuse the nuts to the brass shanks of the faucet. Even so, you should be able to break them loose with a good basin wrench. With the water shut off, slide into the cabinet on your back so that you can see the supply tube nuts and fastening nuts, but not so rust particles will fall in your eyes. Orient the basin wrench so that it's in its loosening position and loosen the nuts, securing the supply tubes to the faucet and the shut-off valves. Then, slip the wrench onto the shank and over the fastening nut. With steady pressure, using both hands, break the fastening nuts loose. When they break free, turn them off with your fingers. You should then be able to lift the old faucet out of its sink openings. If you find a fastening nut that simply won't budge, your next attack will have to be with a hammer and chisel. Position the chisel against one of the ears of the fastening nut and tap in a counterclockwise direction. Removing Bottom-Mount Faucets Some faucets are installed from the bottom up instead of from the top down. These faucets won't have a continuous base plate. Rather, the spout and handles stand above the sink independent of one another. If you see this faucet style, assume a bottom mount configuration. Bottom mount faucets are held in place by their deep escutcheons. After disconnecting the coupling nuts joining the supply tubes to the faucet, remove the faucet handles and undo the packing nuts above the escutcheons. If you find no packing nut above the escutcheons, the escutcheons will themselves be threaded. Use slip jaw pliers or a pipe wrench to undo them. Installing the New Faucet With the old faucet out, you're likely to find a buildup of soap and calcified minerals where the base plate used to be. You'll need to clear away this buildup before installing the new faucet. If soap and water won't do it, use a single-edged razor blade laid nearly flat. With the sink deck clean, you're ready to install the new faucet. You'll find that it will come with a plastic or rubber base gasket. This gasket will act as a buffer between faucet and sink when you draw the faucet down. You can use it or not use it, it's up to you. I generally do, but some people don't like the look of them. You'll also find that some sources will recommend placing plumber's putty under a faucet before setting it. In my opinion, putty is a outdated material for faucets. I prefer to just set the faucet, with or without the gasket, and then seal the base with a very thin bead of latex tub and tile caulk when I'm finished. If the faucet you've purchased has a hosespray, I suggest installing it first. Start by sliding the faucet end of the hose through its deck fitting and through the sink opening. Then, from below, slide the fastening nut onto the hose and bring the hose up through the center hole of the sink. Wrap Teflon tape around the male threads and turn the hose into the bottom of the faucet. If you use the base gasket, make sure you feed the hose through it as well. With the hose connected, set the faucet through the sink holes and work from below. Thread the fastening nuts onto the faucet shanks and draw them down, finger-tight. Then, check the alignment of the faucet base. It should be perfectly parallel with the back of the sink. When you've got it where you want it, tighten the nuts down with slip-jaw pliers or a basin wrench. While you're still under the sink, tighten the fastening nut on the hose-spray deck fitting. Be careful not to over-tighten plastic nuts. Choosing the Right Supply Tube Probably a best supply-tube choice for beginners is a stainless-steel enmeshed polymer tube, which has an appropriate fitting on each end. While strong, these tubes are very flexible, and more importantly, they require no custom cutting or fitting. You just thread the tube's end fittings to the faucet shanks and to the conversion fittings on the supply lines. Then, test your work. Written by Merle Henkenius. Reprinted with permission.Copyright HouseNet, Inc. |