By Marion Lyons Don't despair if you've just moved into a new home that has compacted subsoil where a front lawn should be or if your old lawn looks like a worn-out rug. The time and effort required to create a lush green lawn are probably less than you think. How? By laying sod.
Speed, Selection, and Easy Maintenance
Sure selection.
Convenience.
Smooth start.
Fewer weeds.
Special Uses for Sod If erosion is a problem on a slope, no matter how gentle or steep the incline, sod is the better option. Its healthy, heavy root mat will withstand water runoff even before the lawn is fully established.
Where to Buy Sod Tell your dealer or sod farmer about the growing conditions at your site, such as heavy clay or sandy soil, and the amount and kind of shade or slope. Given extra site information, sod growers can usually provide useful advice to help you avoid mistakes in either the choice of lawn type or installation. What's the Cost?
Save by Installing Sod Yourself Kentucky bluegrass and hybrid Bermuda grass are usually the cheapest because they're sold in the greatest quantities. The most expensive sods are slow-growing, specialty types like buffalo grass, which runs about 45 cents per square foot, and bentgrass, which costs about $1.10 per square foot. Many of those grasses are sold for golf courses or sports fields, not residential lawns. Generally, growers are very competitive and sell the same grasses for about the same price, so shop around for the best quality and the best prices for your area, especially if you're buying from a retail dealer that marks up the price.
When and How to Plant a Sod Lawn Before you buy the sod, till the soil 4 to 6 inches deep. Remove all debris and large rocks. Have the soil tested by a county extension office or a private testing service. Add any amendments the soil test recommends: Organic matter such as composted fir or pine bark and fertilizer are typical; other amendments such as limestone (in the East) or soil sulfur (in the West) may also be necessary. Grade and level the area to smooth the surface. In areas where summer droughts commonly occur, you may have to install a permanent underground sprinkler system before laying the sod. You can always water the lawn with portable, aboveground sprinklers, but an underground system is usually much more efficient and convenient.
Secrets of Success Arrange for delivery of your sod only after you have fully prepared the soil and on a day when you'll have time to install it. On delivery day, water the soil to make it moist and damp but not muddy. Sod should be put down no more than 24 hours after it has been cut at the farm, because the rolled sod will heat up and begin to biodegrade. Inspect the sod before the delivery truck leaves. Shake it to make sure it doesn't fall apart. The sod should be green and the soil moist. If you don't like the appearance, send it back. Suppliers usually transport sod on pallets carrying 50 to 75 square yards each. To avoid a lot of heavy lifting, ask the driver to place pallets in convenient places around your property (but don't let them drive over walkways or patios, because the combined weight of the truck and the sod can cause damage). Start laying the sod along the longest straight line next to your lawn_usually a sidewalk or driveway. When preparing the soil, leave the soil level ¾ to 1 inch below the level of that straight surface to make a neat, smooth transition from grass to pavement. Butt and push the sod's edges and ends against each other tightly, without stretching. Stagger the joints in each row like bricks, and avoid gaps or overlaps. On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope. Use a large knife to trim the corners. Avoid leaving small strips at the outer edges, because they won't retain moisture. To prevent indentations or air pockets, walk or kneel on the new sod as little as possible. After installation, roll the entire area with a lawn roller (available at rental yards) one-third full of water to press the sod roots into the contact with the soil. (If the roller were full of water, it could become too heavy to move.) One common cause of problems is uneven (or insufficient) watering. Start watering within 30 minutes of installation, thoroughly wetting grass until it soaks through into underlying soil. To check penetration, lift a corner of the sod. If it isn't soaked, keep watering. Once the water begins to run off, turn sprinklers off to let water soak in. Then water again. Continue to water regularly for the next 2 to 3 weeks. To test for sufficient moisture, puncture the soil with a screwdriver. If it penetrates easily, your lawn is in good shape; if there's resistance, keep watering.
Technology for Tomorrow Of the two types, washed sod is more readily available. At least one sod farm in every state grows limited quantities of it, usually to supply sports facilities. Only a few farms are currently trying out plastic-grown sod. Lightweight sod is more expensive than the standard kind: In California, for example, it costs about 40 cents per square foot. The advantage of both lightweight types is that they are clean and extremely easy to handle. The plastic-grown sod has an especially sturdy root system that doesn't go into shock. It also comes in large pieces, so it has fewer seams.
Before the sod is delivered... 1. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of composted fir or pine bark over the area, along with any other amendments (such as lime or sulfur) recommended by a soil test report. 2. Use a rototiller to incorporate amendments, then rake to level and smooth the site. 3. Firm the soil by rolling, establishing its level ¾ of an inch below final grade to allow for sod thickness.
On the Day of Delivery... 5. Start laying along a straight edge such as a sidewalk, and keep a heavy utility or old kitchen knife handy to trim sections to odd shapes. 6. Roll freshly laid sod to press its roots firmly against soil and prevent patches from drying out and dying. 7. Water twice daily (or more often during hot weather) until new roots begin to grow into the soil, about 2 or 3 weeks. Use a rain gauge as shown to measure the amount of water actually applied, and test for adequate soil moisture by pushing a screwdriver through the sod. If it goes in easily, the soil is sufficiently moist. Marion Lyons is a garden writer based in New York City.
Provided by NGA
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