Book Rack | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
A cribbage board inspired our design for this nifty little desktop book rack. Instead of pegs placed in holes to keep score, our pegs hold a movable partition in place. We used 1x8 pine lumber, but oak or any other hardwood will make an even more handsome book rack. Just like craftsmen of past generations, you'll make your own doweling jig to help you drill holes for the base and partition pegs. This jig aligns the peg holes in the movable partition and base. The sides of the rack are strengthened with the addition of glue blocks under the bottom piece.
The guide holes on the jig are laid out first. Use a tape measure and pencil to make marks along its long edge 1 1/4 inches from each end and in the center 3 5/8 inches from each end. Use a combination square to draw straight lines through these marks across the jig. Find the center of the jig ends by measuring 1 1/2 inches from each side, and make a mark on the ends. Use the square to draw a straight line through this mark down the center of the jig. Three Xs are formed, marking the location of the guide holes. Use a drill with a 3/8 inch bit to bore these holes. One team member should check that the drill is held square to the jig to make sure the holes are straight. Mark the location of the peg holes on the bottom of the rack on its edge. Measure 4 inches from the end of the bottom piece, and use your square to draw a straight line across the bottom. Repeat on the other end, and then mark off lines at 2 inch intervals between these layout lines. Draw lines across the bottom at the 2 inch intervals. Now you are ready to drill peg holes in the bottom. Align the holes of the jig with one of the layout lines, and clamp the jig to the bottom. Check to see that the end of the jig is flush with the sides of the bottom, then drill three 3/8 inch holes through the bottom, using the holes in the jig as your guide. Remove the jig, align the holes over another layout line, clamp it to the bottom, and repeat the drilling. Carefully check the jig alignment before each drilling, and your movable partition pegs will fit exactly. After you have drilled all twelve peg holes in the bottom, your jig is nailed to a piece of scrap to form a doweling guide. Nail the scrap to the jig with number 6 finishing nails. Align the scrap piece so that Remove your jig, and put a drop of glue on the end of a 3/8 inch dowel. Tap it into a hole in the partition. Glue the other dowels in place the same way. The ends are held to the bottom with four number 6 finishing nails and glue. Lay out the position of the nails by measuring up 1 1/8 inch from the bottom of the ends and using the square to draw a straight line across both ends. On the inner sides of the ends, draw another line 3/4 inch from the bottom to help you align the ends with the bottom when you attach them. Then drive four evenly spaced number 6 finishing nails along the line 1 1/8 inches from the bottom of each end. Put glue on one end of the bottom (B), and place one end (A) in position so that the nails are centered over the side. Use the layout lines you drew 3/4 inches from the bottom on the inner side of the end as a guide. Have one team member hold the pieces in position while the other drives nails. Then glue and nail up the other side. Use a nail set to sink the nail heads below the surface of the wood. Sand all corners smooth with number 120 sandpaper. If the partition pegs fit too tight in the base, take your 3/8 inch drill and work it back and forth in the holes to enlarge them. Our book rack is finished with a light colored stain. We also gave it a coat of paste wax for long lasting protection.
Build It Together by Gene and Katie Hamilton (Stackpole Books) |