Owens Corning
Butcher Block Facelift
Originally, a butcher block was a massive piece of wood set on end and used by butchers as a chopping block to cut up meat. The end-grain absorbed knife cuts and hatchet blows without chipping. Today, what is commonly called butcher block is usually 1 1/2-in. thick hardwood boards laminated together to form counter tops or cutting board inserts. These modern butcher blocks are not as durable as the originals.

If the butcher block is used as a cutting board insert, it will eventually become scarred and dirty since it is wood stained. You can give new life to this worn surface (or to any butcher block surface) with a lot less work than you might imagine.

Before you start be realistic in your expectations. You are not going to remove all the scars and stains. If you try, you will probably have to sand or scrape away so much wood that the counter will become uneven. What you can expect is a fresh clean surface with a seasoned look.

Some typical problems a chopping block insert in a kitchen counter top might have are shown in the photos. It's dirty and marred with knife blade cuts. It also suffers from a burn mark from the bottom of a hot pan.

Here's how to resurface a wood butcher block cutting board.

Prepare the Area

This chopping block is inserted into a laminate counter with an oak bullnosing and tile backsplash. To spare the adjoining surfaces from the cutting edge of a sander or bleach splatter, carefully mask off the surrounding area. Use a double layer of 1-in. or wider masking tape. Remove all objects from the surrounding area.

Scrape and Sand

A hook scraper (also called a wood or paint and varnish scraper) removes the finish and heavy dirt from the butcher block much faster than sanding. This type scraper will not clog up with old finish or dirt like sandpaper will. For best results, use a new blade or sharpen the old one. Don't use a scraper with a serrated, bent, or badly nicked blade or it will gouge the wood.

Hold the scraper firmly in hand with the blade perpendicular to the wood. Press down on the scraper as you pull it toward you in a long controlled motion with the wood grain. The blade will only cut when you pull it toward you so lift the scraper off the wood for the return. Work the scraper over a small area and you should see a fine layer of grit and residue peel off the butcher block on the pull strokes. You will also get some wood.

After you have scraped the entire surface, go back and work over the dark area and deep knife cuts. Remove as much of the grime and old finish as you can with the scrapes because it will make the sanding easier. If you do the heavy work with the scraper, a light sanding is all that is necessary.

We like a palm sander, especially one with a dust collection bag, since it's lightweight and easy to control. Any vibrating sander will work. You can even use a sanding block to do this job but it's tough, slow work sanding hardwood by hand.

Butcher block is tough stuff so don't be surprised if you go through a few sheets of sandpaper trying to even out the surface. Begin with 80-grit abrasive paper. Change the paper often, especially if it clogs with old finish. To prevent marring the adjoining counter or backsplash use a sanding block near all edges. When most of the dark areas and cuts are gone, switch to 120-grit paper and finish the sanding.

Some of the surface blemishes sand out easily, while others like deep knife blade marks take time to feather out. As you sand, vacuum up the dirt and grit so you'll see the true condition of the wood. After this initial sanding, you'll spot the deeply impregnated stains and burn marks that require bleaching.

Bleach

Use a solution of household bleach mixed half and half with water to brighten the whole surface. Wear protective gloves and generously wipe the solution onto the entire surface. For stained areas and burn marks, use the bleach full strength working it into the wood with an old tooth brush, wire brush, or other stiff brush. Let the surface dry completely and then decide if another application of bleach is needed. Several application of household bleach will lighten most dark spots.

When you're satisfied with the results (remember you won't get all the dark areas out), wipe the surface with a rag soaked in white vinegar to neutralize the bleach. Wash the area with dish soap and water and let it dry thoroughly. Give the surface a final sanding with 120-grit sandpaper, because washing with water has raised the wood grain and the butcher block is rough again.

Finish

The safest finish to use on any area that food will come in contact with is mineral oil. This oil is non-toxic and free of harmful ingredients. It is an inexpensive, easy-to-apply finish that requires occasional touch ups.

Mineral oil is rather thick so set the bottle in hot water for 10 or 15 minutes to heat it up and thin it down. This warming process makes it penetrate as deeply as possible into the wood.

Use a clean, dry rag to wipe on a generous coating of mineral oil. Apply as many applications as the wood will take. Rub on oil to any dull area where the oil has soaked into the wood. When the butcher block will not soak up any more oil, wipe up the excess with a paper towel and let the surface dry.

Mineral oil is not a surface finish. The excess oil will not harden, but you can get a nice finish on butcher block if you buff the area with a soft rag.


written by the editors of HouseNet

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