Power and money buy a lot of influence, Troy. Still, game developers can choose whichever API they think is best for their particular game engine. DirectX has become the API of choice for many reasons, not least of which being that it's constantly growing and improving in features and quality. And, of course, with more and more developers choosing it over OpenGL on a daily basis, it's only natural that the pace of OpenGL advancement has slowed.
As for Direct3D games running slower and looking worse than OpenGL games, that's really not true anymore. There will always be exceptions, of course, but by and large DirectX is no longer the ugly slug it was at launch. Really, these days it's an extremely capable API, and the fact that Max Payne uses it instead of OpenGL doesn't have us losing any sleep.

Should I buy a P4 1.5GHz- or an AMD 1.4GHz-based system? I'm under tight money constraints and I want to know which processor is better for gaming. Right now I'm leaning toward Alienware because of their prices. I would get the new Voodoo EGAD but the system is just too pricey!
- Jesse B, via email

Pound for pound, AMD CPUs are faster than Intel's. Even with a 100MHz delta, a 1.4GHz Thunderbird will be faster than a P4 1.5GHz in most situations. If those are your choices, go the AMD route.

On the Trinity page in the Sept. 2001 issue you recommend a standard 300-watt ATX case and power supply for each of the systems and suggest that the price should be around $100. I've seen many
case-and-300-watt-power-supply combos for much cheaper. Should I avoid buying one of these less-expensive models - even if it has a good warranty? Do inexpensive cases have any specific problems that more expensive cases don't have?
- Matt Heidebrecht, via email

If you find a case you like, buy it regardless of its cost. I set the price at $100 only because ATX cases and power supplies range in price so greatly and because that's roughly how much you'll pay for a case similar to what companies like Alienware and other high-end PC builders use for their systems.

I recently picked up a copy of Westwood's Blade Runner. It's a great adventure game, but is there any way that I can get it to recognize my 3D card?
- Dennis Murray, via email

No. 3D support must be built in by the developer for a game to take any advantage of your card's 3D capabilities. In the case of Blade Runner, it used a voxel-based rendering engine and would have therefore been quite difficult to get running with any existing 3D cards.

Do you prefer a particular GeForce3 card? I know they're all pretty much the same as far as the actual hardware is concerned, but does that mean I can get one from a no-name company and not have to worry about it?
- Chris McClain, via email

In my experience with GeForce3 cards, they're all nearly identical. I suggest you get whichever GeForce3 you can find for the least amount of money. Just make sure it has a reasonable warranty so that you have someone to turn to if something does go wrong.

I've recently started looking into buying an Alienware gaming system. I was wondering if you think it's worth an extra $600 to $700 to go from an IDE to SCSI hard drive. I can afford it, but would rather save my money for other things if it's not really worth the dough now that they have ATA-100 technology. Please help! I am extremely gullible and will religiously follow any advice you give me!
- Kyle Hassel, via email

Well, that's good information to have! While I may decide to make use of your gullibility at a later date, right now I'm feeling charitable. The truth is, if you're primarily interested in playing games, surfing the 'Net, and maybe doing some work, you're going to want to save your money and stick with an ATA-100 drive. SCSI is a faster solution in instances where multitasking is an issue, but the difference in speed to the average user will be negligible. In the three years I've been with PC Gamer, not a single editor has ever run a SCSI drive here at the office - even when we've had access to them. Some people will likely call us rejects, but really, when running a system for everyday "normal" use, it's almost impossible to tell the difference - even if you're timing loads and startups with a stopwatch.

I want to know how I can record telephone conversations on my computer. Obviously, I'd prefer a method built into Windows, or a freeware program, but if you know about a hardware or software option that does this, I'd still be very grateful. I've heard prank calls and whatnot on the Internet, so I know it's possible.
- Chris Short, via email

As difficult as it is to believe, we don't make too many prank calls around here [yeah right - Ed.], so none of us are very "up" on the latest telephone snooping devices. However, a quick search on Yahoo for "phone recording equipment" turned up many results, including a company called DynaMetric (www.dynametric.com), which offers a recording unit called "TMP-636." This product records and plays back audio between your telephone and PC sound card or tape recorder. Besides that, Windows has a basic sound recorder built in, and with the right mic, you'll probably be just fine without buying anything terribly fancy.

I just bought a new 30GB hard drive and it works great, but I don't know what to do with my old one. Is there any way I can put it to good use in the same system?
- Matthew Park, via email

When I buy a new hard drive, I often set my existing drive to act as a slave to the new one - meaning that the computer won't boot from it at startup and that the machine will recognize it as a "D" drive instead of a "C" drive. This way, I've got access to all my old files and programs without having to make backups ahead of time. The actual work involved in making these changes is minimal, and if you're already feeling comfortable enough to install your new drive on your own, you should be able to set up your old drive as a slave, too. Basically, all you'll be doing is changing around a jumper (or two) on your old drive so that it knows that it's no longer the primary drive, and perhaps changing its position with regard to your IDE cables. If you're worried, simply get a tech-savvy friend to give you a hand.

I've had the Game Commander 2 [reviewed in the June 2001 issue] for a while now. Yesterday, I checked out the website for new profiles and saw a link to a new ThrustMaster keyboard-type controller called "HOMAB Tacticalboard" that will use Game Commander 2. It'll probably turn out to be complete crap like most of the other multi-purpose controllers out there, but it might surprise us. How 'bout a review? Also, I'm one of thousands of U.S. troops stationed over here in Japan. I'd say the majority of us are huge gamers. Problem is, all the new games take forever to appear and/or ship over here. How 'bout some love? Can you send me a new game? P.S. - Somebody frag Vede's ass for me. That guy's a freak.
- SSgt. J. Andrew Hann, USAF, via email

When I saw the Tacticalboard at E3, it hadn't been finalized, so I'm guessing it'll be a couple more months before I get one in for review. That said, it looked pretty sweet, and I'm actually excited to test it. As for your request, despite the fact that you called me a freak, I've decided to send you a copy of Emperor: Battle for Dune. Hell, even people as misguided as you deserve to play new games every once in a while.

One year ago I bought an IBM Aptiva 1GHz with 256MB of RDRAM. I thought it would be a lightning-fast computer; I was wrong. It's so slow! Is it because PIIIs and RAMBUS don't work well together? If that's the case, would I be better off if I replaced the existing two sticks of 128MB PC-800 RDRAM with 256MB of SDRAM, and then just saved the spare memory for a P4 down the road?
- Glenn Nishino, via email

While RDRAM was never intended to run optimally on the PIII platform, it's certainly not a "slow" option, and buying a new board that supports SDRAM instead isn't going to be much faster, if at all. Because you didn't mention anything else about your system, it's hard to say why you think it's so sluggish. Are you basing your opinion on other people's benchmarks? If so, don't worry: it's almost impossible to verify how different people benchmark their own systems. Everyone does it a little differently - with some tweaks
thrown in here and there - and pretty soon, it's impossible to tell whose benchmarks are "real" and whose aren't. Perhaps you need a new video card, but trust me, unless there's something wrong with your computer, it should
still be plenty fast.

Who do the powers that be at Intel and AMD think we are? Do they think we're all a bunch of dumb rich guys who are going to rush out and buy their latest, fastest CPUs when we haven't even had our existing CPUs for a week? These guys are releasing new product so fast, I don't think any average person can keep up. When the first 1GHz CPUs came out, everyone was shocked at how fast and powerful processors had become. Now Intel has already launched a 1.7GHz CPU? I know you guys at PC Gamer probably don't have to purchase your hardware, but us little people sure do! When will the madness end?
- Joel Magana, via email

The truth is that, in recent times, CPUs have been increasing in MHz at a much faster pace than usual. A large part of this evolution has to do with the fact that Intel and AMD are fighting it out for supremacy - who can make the fastest chip, who can make the most money, who can corner the market?
The good news is that, because of all of this competition, CPU prices are at an all-time low. And, hey, stop worrying so much! Just because a newer, faster CPU comes out doesn't mean that your system is suddenly going to start running your existing games any slower!

After reading your review of the GeForce3 in last month's issue, I've got a couple of questions:
(1) You said GeForce3 cards come with a disc with games and tech demos. If I buy an Alienware computer with a Geforce3 already installed, will that disc come with it?
(2) In the "lows" portion of the Final Verdict box, you said DX8-optimized titles haven't started hitting the scene. Will games that aren't DX8-optimized run on GeForce3?
- Warren Strickler, via email

Actually, it's up to individual board makers whether or not they want to include the demos with their card. Of the three GeForce3 cards reviewed in this very issue, the ELSA GLADIAC 920 shipped with just about all of the demos on its CD, and Hercules' 3D Prophet III shipped with only a few. Having just reviewed an Alienware system in last month's issue, I can tell you that it came with a GeForce3 card but not with any demos. Sadly, the Visiontek card Alienware currently uses doesn't come with any of its own. As
for your other question, yes, all of your older DirectX games will run just fine on GeForce3.

I recently read your article on the Dell Inspiron - the one with a GeForce2 Go graphics chip. You mentioned how, in certain situations, the texture compression was enabled, but that it could also be disabled. Is this just a default function of NVIDIA cards, or is there a location in the Advanced Properties tab where the feature can be toggled?
- John, via email

Generally, texture compression (with any and all GeForce-based cards) is meant to be enabled and disabled (manually or automatically) in games that support the feature. Force-enabling the feature via a hack would take a little bit of work on your part - it's not something you can do by looking in your Advanced Properties tab - and is very likely to degrade the image quality of any game not meant to run with compression enabled in the first place.

I just recently upgraded my existing PC with 128MB of SDRAM, an AMD Duron 800MHz, a 10GB HD, a SOYO motherboard, Diamond Viper2 Graphics, and more. As soon as I assembled everything, I began testing all of the games I already had installed on my old hard drive. They seemed to work fine until I started playing X-Wing Alliance. At that point I noticed that my joystick port wasnÆt working. I couldnÆt fix the problem myself, so I called my uncle (a computer programmer) for help. He got the joystick working, but afterward I couldnÆt play the other games that I had installed on my system: the computer started loading them and would then just drop me back to my desktop.

After thinking about my problem, I deleted my dsound.dll file, and found that new games I installed on the system worked fine. I got really excited, and tried to go back and play my older games once again, but they still didnÆt work. This time, a window popped up and said: ôCouldnÆt find file DSOUND.DLL.ö What do you think is going on with my machine? Did I do something I wasnÆt supposed to do?
ù Chris Pounder, via email

It sounds to me like even though you got a new hard drive, you ended up using the old one as your primary drive without performing a reformat first. Sadly, once youÆve changed motherboards, keeping your existing install of Windows almost always spells trouble. As for the file you deleted, itÆs part of DirectX ù something you shouldnÆt have been messing with a lot in the first place. Install the newest version of DirectX (itÆs on this monthÆs PC Gamer CD) and see if it helps improve things for you.
IÆm not sure what your uncle did to get your joystick port working, but it sounds like he may have ended up causing some system conflicts in the process. To be honest, by the time youÆre done putting out all of the ôfiresö on your system, youÆre likely to regret the time you wasted. I suggest that you get your uncle back over and have him help you back up your important files prior to wiping your drive and starting over with a fresh install of Windows 98 SE.

IÆm building a new computer and my price range falls about $500 beyond your TrinityÆs mid-range system. If you were me, where would you put the extra $500? 
ù Rick Luebbers, via email

Take the mid-range system and add a GeForce3 and a 1.33GHz Thunderbird. Beyond that, consider moving from a system that uses SDR system memory to one that uses DDR. These are great performance-enhancing changes that should get you into the price range youÆre looking at.

I bought an HP Pavilion 6735 in September 2000.
It came with a Celeron 633MHz and 64MB of RAM. IÆve since added goodies like a 32MB TNT2 and another 64MB of RAM. When I purchased the computer, the sales guy also mumbled something about being able to overclock my Celeron, but I was too busy staring at a Sony VAIO nearby to hear what he said. I plan to add another 128MB of RAM to my system this fall to get it ready for Red Faction et al. Is it possible to overclock my Celeron? How many more MHz can I expect? Is it safe?
 ù Siddharth Ghosh, via email

While you probably can overclock your Celeron 633MHz, youÆll almost certainly need a new motherboard in order to do so. Why? Because overclocking your chip requires a board with adjustable front-side bus settings ù an uncommon feature in retail systems. By the time youÆve bought the new motherboard, along with a new computer tower (your HP likely wonÆt take a standard motherboard), you could have just bought yourself a new CPU and put it in the existing system for less money.

IÆm building a new system and am quite interested in an AMD Thunderbird. IÆve heard about strange overheating issues. IÆve also heard that AMD makes better processors for gaming. WhatÆs the deal?  ù B.C., via email

Nah, overheating isnÆt a problem. If you get a decent CPU fan and have good airflow in your case, youÆll be fine as long as you arenÆt overclocking. As for the Thunderbird being a better CPU for gaming, thatÆs largely true. The new 1.7GHz P4s are plenty fast in many games, but theyÆre more expensive. As such, the Thunderbird should still be considered the top choice for most PC gamers.

After reading the ôTweaks and tipsö feature in your May issue, I attempted to adjust my virtual memory settings as you instructed. After starting Defrag with my virtual memory disabled, I got a message saying that I didnÆt have enough memory to perform the operation. Since I wasnÆt running any programs at the time, I figured my systemÆs 128MB of RAM would be enough, but clearly it wasnÆt. What else can I try?
ù John Girone, via email

Are you sure you arenÆt running any other programs? From your Start menu, click on ôRunö and type ômsconfig.ö Once the configuration window opens, click on the Startup tab and uncheck everything except for SystemTray. After a reboot, try running defrag again. When youÆre done with the defrag and have specified your own VM settings, make sure to go back into msconfig and turn back on any programs you want at startup. If defrag still isnÆt working, turn your virtual memory back on and download Power Defrag at www. powerdefrag.com. This utility automates the entire process and should hopefully work better for you.

I have an NVIDIA RIVA TNT2 graphics card with 32MB of RAM. This card supports refresh rates up to 120Hz. According to my manual, my monitor ù a brand-new 19-inch Compaq MV940 ù allows for a maximum refresh rate of 85Hz. Still, Windows gives me the option of setting it at 120Hz, and when I do, it seems to run fine. IÆve called Compaq support a few times to see if this higher setting will damage my monitor, but the service reps keep giving me different answers, so IÆve set it back down to 85Hz just to be sure.
ù Kevin Page, via email

IÆd say that youÆre probably okay at 120Hz since the MV940 is a plug-and-play monitor and itÆs letting you set its refresh rate that high in the first place. But this ignores an important fact: regardless of whether or not your monitor supports it, going over 85Hz is silly. Somewhere between 70Hz and 85Hz, youÆll stop noticing screen flicker and setting the refresh higher will only strain your monitor, potentially cutting its lifespan. If youÆre trying to do some benchmarking on your system (as I suspect you are), disable your v-sync instead of pumping up your refresh rate.

IÆm building a new computer and was wondering which was better for gaming: 256MB of SDRAM for $80 or 128MB of RAMBUS for $225?
ù Alex, via email

ThatÆs the million-dollar question, Alex. If cost is your biggest concern, the answer is quite clear: go for the 256MB of SDRAM for $80. But itÆs not necessarily that cut-and-dry, is it? It all depends on the platform. If youÆre going for a P4, RAMBUS is all you can use. But then, should you go with a P4 over a Thunderbird with DDR memory (or even SDR)? And donÆt forget about the PIII! With Pentium III, you can go either way ù RAMBUS or SDR ù though I strongly recommend against RAMBUS for the PIII unless youÆre already stuck with an i820-based motherboard.
If I were building a new system right now, and I didnÆt want to have to declare bankruptcy, IÆd almost certainly go for a Thunderbird system (around 1GHz), and IÆd opt for 256MB of SDR memory. That way, I could put the extra money toward a great video card like the GeForce3.

I am currently building a new system and would like to get ahold of the benchmark programs you use to test your systems. If you could tell me where to get them, or if you could send them to me on CD, IÆd appreciate it.
ù Warren Hlafcsak, via email

Sorry, Warren, we canÆt send you the discs, but we can tell you what we use and where you can get them for yourself. 3DMark 2000 Standard can be downloaded for free at www.madonion.com, and the Pro version can be purchased from the site for $29.99. As for our Quake III tests, we simply use the retail version of Quake III and the included ôDemo 1.ö To get frame-rate info for ôDemo 1,ö hit the ô~ö key to bring down the console once youÆve loaded up the game and are at a menu screen. Next, type ôTimedemo 1ö and then hit Enter. Now hit ô~ö to close the console. Finally, simply click on ôDemosö and then on ôDemo1.ö YouÆll need to hit the ô~ö button again after the test is done to see your score.
As for MDK 2, again, we use the retail version of the game. In this case, however, youÆre going to need to download the patch if youÆre using Win ME or else it wonÆt work at all. When you first start the game, youÆre given a chance to change resolutions and make other changes to settings like texture resolution. After youÆve set these options the way you want them, hit the ôtestö button to run the benchmark. If all goes well, your average frame rate will be displayed at the end of the run. Due to a slight bug, youÆll sometimes need to run this test several times to get a result.

I was wondering if you could explain the benefits and downsides of running devices on USB versus on a parallel port. Many modern printers and scanners seem able to connect using either. While USB is easier to configure, because itÆs a serial interface, isnÆt it considerably slower than parallel?
ù Brian, via email

Actually, Brian, both USB and parallel ports can transfer as much as 1.5MB per second under optimal conditions. USB, however, is better at handling multiple devices, such as a printer and scanner installed at the same time. Another potential benefit of going USB instead of parallel is that, if you like, you can then go into your BIOS and disable your parallel port altogether ù thus freeing up an IRQ for other, more important devices you may wish to install in the future.

I have a question about DVD-ROM decoding software. My video card is an ELSA GLADIAC 32MB GeForce2 GTS, but I bought the card as a returned product at a discount, and, unfortunately, the only software that came with the card was the device driver ù no DVD-ROM software. IÆm now looking to buy a new DVD-ROM drive, and my question is, Will it come with decoding software, or will I be forced to buy a decoder card and burn another precious PCI slot?
ù Name withheld, via email

ItÆs quite likely, but not certain, that your new drive will come with decoding software. If you head to www.download.com, you should be able to track down some free decoding software. Better still, you might want to try giving ELSA a call to see if theyÆre willing to send you a copy of the software that should have come with your card in the first place.

IÆm building a new system and I have the money to get a Pentium 4 processor, but for a pure gaming system, is the P4 what I want, or should I go for an AMD Thunderbird? Even if the Pentium 4 is faster, is the difference in performance worth forking out all that extra dough?
ù Thomas Magers, via email

If I were a millionaire (or just had plenty of extra spending money) and was looking to build a new computer today, IÆd honestly be torn between the two technologies. Because IÆm not a millionaire, though, IÆd have to give serious consideration to going the AMD route ù especially since, in many situations, when paired with DDR system memory, theyÆre as fast or faster than P4s. The real problem at this point is stability. Be aware that, as they exist right now, DDR-based Thunderbird systems tend to be a little wonky. PC companies donÆt seem to be having much trouble with them, but some do-it-yourselfers have been running into blue screens and random lockups. Still, even with SDR memory, the fastest Thunderbirds are amazingly fast. Whether you go P4 or Thunderbird, if itÆs paired with a GeForce2 Ultra or a new Geforce3, you arenÆt likely to suffer system envy for quite some time.

Now that the ôEvil Empireö (Microsoft) has pulled the original SideWinder Game Pad off the market ù that is what happened, right? ù what would you guys say is the best pad out there? And if you say itÆs that newer gray SideWinder gamepad, IÆm gonna have to hurt ya! It stinks!
ù Bill Fleck, via email

Worry not. We arenÆt terribly fond of the SideWinder Game Pad Pro, either ù though it has grown on us over time, given that just about every computer manufacturer under the sun sends one with their system. But I digress. The answer to your question is that a lot of us still use our old SideWinder Game Pads, and those of us who donÆt tend to prefer LogitechÆs WingMan GamePad (standard and Extreme).

IÆm trying to put together a new computer using a lot of parts from my old one, including my old motherboard.
It supports ATA-33 hard drives, but all of the newer, larger IDE drives IÆve been seeing around are either ATA-66 or ATA-100. Will my motherboard work with those types of hard drives, or am I stuck trying to track down a slower one?
ù Paul Morrison, via email

YouÆll be just fine with either of the drive types you just specified, Paul. You wonÆt get better than ATA-33 performance since thatÆs the fastest setting your motherboard supports, but the drives will indeed work. As a matter of fact, many of our older systems around the office are packing ATA-100 drives on older mobos, too!

I know this is a bonehead question, but I just installed Win 98 on a new hard drive and didnÆt have a floppy disk handy when I was prompted to insert one so I could make a startup disk. Now that everything is installed, I know thereÆs still got to be a way to make a startup disk, but I donÆt know how.
ù John Whittman, via email

Windows 98 and Win ME make things really easy for you in this regard, John. Just go into your Control Panel and double-click Add/Remove Programs. A new information window will open up, and at the top youÆll see a couple of selectable tabs. Click on the one called ôStartup Disk,ö follow the instructions, and youÆll have your disk in no time!

IÆve got a computer with a VIA-based Athlon motherboard, and every few months I reformat the system and reinstall Windows in order to keep everything running its best. Every time I do this, I install a program that came with my motherboard called an AGP miniport driver. When IÆm installing it, it gives me the option of setting my AGP to ôNormalö or ôTurboö mode. I usually select ôTurbo,ö but to be honest, I donÆt know what that means. Do you?
ù Steve Lee, via email

I know how you feel. Documentation for those types of drivers is sorely lacking. ôNormalö sets your AGP to 1x and ôTurboö sets it to the maximum ù 2x or 4x, depending on what your motherboard supports.

IÆm planning on upgrading to a GeForce2 GTSûbased card. I had two doubts that I wanted to clear up:
(1) WhatÆs the relative difference between the quality of the various GeForce2 GTS cards? I can see 32MB cards available from $170 to $240 on online retail sites. Is there a reliability difference between a VisionTek/LeadTek Geforce2 GTS 32MB and an Annihilator 2 that costs $50 to $60 more?
(2) Games using the Unreal engine are supposed to be 3dfx-oriented. Will I see a drop in the display quality of such games on the GeForce2, or will the quality remain as good?
ù Deeptanshu Verma, via email

(1) The real difference is support. A company like Creative Labs will be more likely to get back to you in the event of any troubles. That said, if youÆre buying these cards off the Internet, the warranty is probably provided by the seller and not the manufacturer anyway, so thatÆs not necessarily a big issue. Also, sometimes prices vary on the Internet because of hidden charges these companies donÆt tell you about until you call them. Make sure that youÆre really getting whatÆs advertised, and you should be fine with just about any DDR GeForce 2 you get.
(2) No, as a matter of fact, the image quality of Unreal-based games tends to be better on GeForce cards than on 3dfx cards. That was never the issue. The issue was that because the original Unreal engine was designed with 3dfxÆs Glide API in mind, it didnÆt run as well under D3D. These days, with newer Unreal-based games like Unreal Tournament, performance issues are mostly a thing of the past ù especially when youÆve got a fast CPU to back up your video card.

IÆm assembling a new AMD Thunderbird 1GHz system. I want to be able to play FPS games and use 3D programs such as 3D Studio Max on my new system. Here are the basics of what IÆm planning on putting together at this point:
ò T-Bird 1GHz ò ABIT KT7 Raid ATX ò PC 133 256MB RAM (from Mushkin or Crucial) ò Full Tower Case 300w or Tornado 2000 Case 400W (which one is better?) ò NVIDIA GeForce DDR
I know GeForce DDR really kicks ass for gaming, but IÆm not sure itÆs good enough for 3D Studio Max. Any suggestions?
 ù Hendra, via email

Suggestions? Sure! Head over to www.nvidia.com and read up on their Quadro line. Basically, these cards use GeForce-family hardware along with drivers written specifically for the workstation market ù including 3D Studio Max users.

In regard to the advice you gave ôSteveö back in the Jan. 2001 issue about sharing a single cable-modem line, if there are only two computers being used, you donÆt really need to use a router. Just make sure that each computer has an Ethernet card (not including the one used by your cable modem) and then connect them via an RJ-45 crossover cable. HereÆs the good part: Windows 98 comes with Internet Connection Sharing at no additional cost. YouÆll probably need to install it from the CD since itÆs not a standard install option. First, set up Internet Connection Sharing on the computer with the cable modem. It will then allow you to copy necessary information onto a floppy disk for use in setting up the second computer. If you have any questions or concerns, check MicrosoftÆs online Knowledge Base for exact instructions.
Using Internet Connection Sharing, IÆve been sharing my cable modem between two computers for six months now with nary a problem. Just remember that the computer with the cable modem must be turned on in order for the second computer to access the Internet. This solution costs a lot less than the $150 router you suggested!
ù Mike Rys, via email

Thanks for the tip, Mike! Two things to keep in mind, however, if youÆre contemplating this solution: (1) By using a router, youÆre protecting yourself from outside computer attacks and infiltrations on any connected computer. When using MicrosoftÆs Internet Connection Sharing, youÆre leaving yourself wide-open. (2) As you mentioned, the system with the cable modem must be on at all times if the other system is going to be able to access the Internet. ThatÆs great if you own both computers and theyÆre both in the same room, but what if one of the computers is yours and the other belongs to your roommate, and the systems are in different rooms? In that case, having both systems on could be a hassle.
Still, either solution should work, and you should go with the option that appeals most to you. LetÆs face it: not everyone has an extra $150 to throw around on a router!

As much as I despise your publication for killing my beloved PC Accelerator, having been forced to turn to you for my PC gaming news, IÆve realized that PC Gamer isnÆt quite as bad as I had initially feared itÆd be. How about that? Anyway, I need to know about power supplies. I plan on getting a Gigabyte motherboard for an AMD Thunderbird 800MHz processor. Will 145 watts do, or do I really need the 300 watts you recommend on the Trinity page?
ù Robert Graham, via email

Whoa! Yeah, youÆre going to want more than that, Robert. As a matter of fact, you should probably head on over to AMDÆs ôAthlon Processor System Configuration Recommendationsö page at www1.amd.com/athlon/config to see exactly what products (including power supplies) AMD recommends for use with its processors.

Doofus, USB will work with Windows 95B (OSR2)! Lucky for you, the reader in question runs on an Athlon platform, which means that his motherboard chipset may, in fact, prevent USB support, but itÆs still worth a try!
(1) Make sure you have the correct PCI driver loaded for your motherboard chipset (430FX, 430HX, 430VX and 440FX, 400LX, 440BX, etc.)
(2) YouÆll need two files: usbsupp.exe and usbinf.exe. Usually, youÆll find them on your Win 95B CD somewhere. If not, get on the Internet and search! Compaq customers can search and download these from CompaqÆs website.
(3) Run usbsupp.exe. System will restart.
(4) Run usbinf.exe.
(5) From Control Panel, open System.
(6) Open ôDevice Manager.ö
(7) Open ôOther Devices.ö
(8) Remove entry ôUniversal serial bus controller.ö
(9) Restart system.
ù Jay So, Compaq Customer Support

Yes, Win 95 can be made to work with USB if youÆve got version B or C, but can any of the people who wrote in to ôset me straightö find a single modern USB device that says it supports anything less than Win 98? Maybe youÆre the type of person who wonÆt ever need to call a support line, but a lot of readers arenÆt nearly as tech-savvy as you. If I tell the average gamer to install a ôhackö that only came out because Win 98 was so terribly delayed back in 1997, and then that gamer ever has a problem, whoÆs he supposed to call for help with his unsupported configuration?
Hey, maybe IÆm evil or something, but I think that telling someone to upgrade to Win 98 instead of dealing with sketchy USB support in Win 95 isnÆt such a bad thing. Okay, okay, I admit, I shouldnÆt have called the reader a doofus, so if that in turn makes me a doofus, then IÆll accept my fate. My name is Greg ôDoofusö Vederman, hear me roar!

I've been hearing a lot of things lately about 3dfx. One story I read said that the Voodoo5 6000 would no longer be coming out. The other said that 3dfx was getting out of the 3D card business altogether. Is 3dfx going out of business or something? Please tell me whatÆs going on.
ùTed Chapman, via email

Yes, no, and maybe, in that order. Yes, the Voodoo5 6000 has been canceled. Quantum3D will still be using the technology for arcade systems and the like, but a retail product isn't expected to see the light of day. As for the other rumor, 3dfx is looking to sell off the fabrication plant it acquired when it purchased STB not all that long ago, but it will still be designing and selling its own 3dfx-branded video cards ù said cards will then be built in someone else's factory. Whether or not 3dfx will end up going under is anyone's guess at this point, Ted. Things certainly don't look too good. Hopefully, whatever new technology the company has up its sleeve will end up pulling it out of the flames. 

I am having a slight problem with a home-built system. The system works fine ù when it starts. But it seems that the longer I have the computer running, the more time is required for it to ôrestö between shut-down and start-up or else itÆs prone to locking up. I thought that the problem might be an internal heat issue, but the computer has a case fan in addition to the power-supply fan and the fan/heatsinks on the CPU and GeForce2. The fan/heatsink on the CPU isnÆt the one that is boxed with the retail CPU, but I didnÆt think that that would matter. While this is not a fatal problem, it is very annoying, so I will gladly accept any of your advice on the matter.
ùJeremy Weagley, via email

Make sure that the heatsink on your CPU is attached properly. Sometimes, if enough contact isnÆt being made between the CPU and the heat plate or thermal grease, heat wonÆt be dissipated properly. In situations like this, your heatsink and fan can actually trap heat by mistake ù like a hat on your head. You should be able to buy thermal grease/ compound at any computer store. YouÆll want to use a very small amount as described in the instructions.

IÆm thinking of buying a new computer. I have to decide between Hypersonic, Alienware, and Falcon Northwest. Which one would you choose for a good semi-cheap machine? IÆm also thinking of buying some Cambridge SoundWorks FPS 2000 digital speakers and a Sound Blaster Live! Is it possible to connect the speakers to my computer as well as to the TV for watching movies and DVDs?
ùStanislaw Chajewski, via email

IÆd go with any and all of the companies you listed; all three have great track records and all build top-notch gaming systems. The deciding factor for me would be price. Whichever one can build the system you want for the least amount of money is your best bet. To answer your other question, no, those speakers arenÆt really made to function with your TV or DVD player. If you want a set of speakers to do double duty, youÆll want to go with something like the PlayWorks DTT2500 (or 3500) Digital instead (http://csw.creative.com/ products/pwdtt2500/).

I just read the review of the Alienware Pentium 4 system in your Jan. 2001 issue, and given that IÆve wanted an Alienware system since I first saw their ads, I decided to look into buying one. I started by scouring the Net looking for additional information on the Pentium 4 and saw that, apparently, the P4 has a weak floating-point unit (whatever that is), so in some cases it doesnÆt perform as well as it could. I donÆt want to be in the position of plopping down a huge chunk of change for a 1.2GHz Athlon system and then a week later AMD releases the new P4-killer. Do you think I should I go with a maxed-out Athlon Thunderbird system, wait for the next AMD chip, or go with the P4?
ùMike Scott, via email

You bastard. You had to go and ask me a direct question about which technology I like better, didnÆt you? Well, since you asked, if I were going to buy a new system of my own in the next month or two, IÆd almost certainly go with a super-fast Thunderbird, along with a motherboard that supports DDR SDRAM memory. I havenÆt played with enough DDR-equipped motherboards yet to say which one I like best, but the speed increase over SDR is quite noticeable in a lot of applications. P4 still looks great, but for now, IÆm still over in AMDÆs court. As for upcoming AMD technologies, Sledgehammer is likely to replace the Athlon at some point in the semi-near future, but still, if I were planning to build a new gaming system in the next month or so, IÆd stick with the Thunderbird.

I think I have a joystick curse. IÆve had half a dozen joysticks, all from reputable manufacturers such as CH, Logitech, and Saitek, and every one of the damn things has crapped out in less than a year. The electronics just seem to go bad and they start doing strange things like making my spaceship go suddenly flying off in one direction or fire unexpectedly. My latest stick (a Saitek Cyborg 3D Gold USB) has an intermittent connection in every one of its buttons. ItÆs especially strange considering that IÆm an FPS fanatic so I donÆt even use a joystick that much. I donÆt abuse my Æsticks. What the heck could be the problem here? Could there be something wrong with my system? Or are joysticks just crap these days? Could you recommend a reliable, nonûforce-feedback joystick that wonÆt break the bank? I donÆt feel like spending $80 on something thatÆs just going to spontaneously combust on me.
ùName withheld, via email

I donÆt think thereÆs a problem with your system, but it is a possibility. If youÆve had a USB mouse installed for a while and it still works, then perhaps youÆve just run into some really bad luck with your joysticks. Have you opened any umbrellas in the house lately or walked under any ladders? See if you canÆt find a Microsoft Precision Pro (theyÆre not being made any more, but theyÆre still around) or, if not, a Precision 2. With a little bit of luck (youÆre due for some), youÆll find either of them for $50 or less.

My computer locks up whenever I play any games that require a 3D accelerator. My configuration: AMD Thunderbird 850MHz, 128MB PC-133 RAM, Asus A7V motherboard, Jaton 32MB GeForce, and a Creative sound card. Is there a way to fix the problem or do will I have to get another video card or motherboard?
ùCurtiss Michels, via email

HereÆs some things youÆll want to try, Curtiss: make sure to install the latest BIOS upgrade for your motherboard; grab the Detonator 3 drivers for your video card at www.nvidia.com and use those instead of the ones from Jaton; check with your video-card manufacturer to see if theyÆve released any BIOS updates for their card and install them if they have; if all else fails, try going into your BIOS and setting your AGP slot down from 4X to 1X and see if the lockups go away.

The flippant tone in your recent review of the GeForce2 Ultra made me think, ôGreat, hereÆs another video card that will be outdated by the time I can save enough money to buy it.ö However, upon looking through the issue again, I finally took a good hard look at the benchmarks. Holy shit, Vederman! My 16MB TNT has a serious inferiority complex! Outdated in four months? Who cares! 100.4fps (frames per second) with everything maxed at 1024 x 768 in Quake III? An incredibly playable 50fps at 1600 x 1200? The NV20 may end up being one hell of a graphics card when it finally sees the light of day, but meanwhile, IÆll take an Ultra (NV15), please, with a side of french fries.
ùDavid Stone, via email

I think youÆve got me all wrong, Dave. My ôflippantö tone had everything to do with the fact that these cards are getting faster and faster on a near-daily basis and that raw speed, while nice, is getting a bit boring. LetÆs see some really hot new features that make games look better, you know? That said, youÆre absolutely correct. If you save your money for several months and then buy an Ultra, youÆll be happy as a pig in poop for quite a while.

First of all, donÆt flatter yourself by thinking that I wrote to you because I knew you would be the only one who could give a true answer. (Since sucking up never works, IÆm trying a little reverse psychology.) This is about the Microsoft SideWinder Force Feedback 2 Joystick. I canÆt get the setup program to run. I enter the disc and it says ôCannot find required file: HID.DLL.ö I tried emailing Microsoft, but every time I got a reply it was in the form of a question. Yes, itÆs true; you are my last resort and my only hope. My system config is: AMD Athlon 700MHz, 128MB RAM, 30.2GB HD, True 50x CD-ROM, and Windows 95. What could be the problem?
ù Daniel Evans, via the Internet

By any chance, was the question that Microsoft kept asking you anything like ôDaniel, were you dropped as a child?ö Doofus, USB controllers only work with Windows 98 and above! IÆve been telling this to you people for years now! Not only that, but the joystick box itself lists the requirements as well. Go put Win 98 or Win ME on your system post-haste, and your joystick installation should be as smooth as a babyÆs butt. And in the future, donÆt pull any more of that reverse-psychology crap unless you want me to start telling you stories about my mother.

You are the best part of PC Gamer. You are the one who helps people. You are like a Saint, blessing people with your words of wisdom. You should have your own magazine, and call it VederMag. Anyway, hereÆs my question: I need a new computer, but IÆm a wee bit short on cash. My system is perfectly fine, just slow, and the hard drive is too small (I have a PII 300MHz with an 8GB hard drive). Now, can I just buy a new hard drive and processor (IÆd like a new 1GHz processor, if that makes any difference), or do I need a new motherboard, too? Thanks, man ù youÆre the greatest! Viva Vederman!    
ù ôMonkeyNoggin,ö via the Internet

You suck-up bastard. Flattery will get you everywhere, but only for today. I happen to be in a pleasant mood now that IÆve finally had my corns filed off. Most likely, your motherboard is too old to support CPUs as fast as 1GHz. If your system is a retail machine, contact your manufacturer and ask them for certain. If it isnÆt, and you donÆt have any documentation, open up your system case and look at the board itself to figure out its make and model. Once you have that info in hand, hop online and check the manufacturerÆs website to see what CPUs are supported.

I love taping my favorite TV shows so I can watch them over and over again, but my money is slowly being eaten up by the cost of videocassettes. Then I noticed how much cheaper CDs are than VHS tapes, and it made me think, is there any way to take the shows off the tapes and put them on my computer? ThereÆs gotta be, right? If so, whatÆs the best way to do this? I am currently using a 733MHz Pentium III with 128MB of PC-133 SDRAM and an Asus V-7100 GeForce2 Pure 32MB.
ù Protasivich, via the Internet

Clearly, thatÆs the dumbest thing IÆve ever heard. No, no such thing exists. OK, I lied: itÆs actually quite simple, really. Pick up either a Voodootv 100 or 200 (check www.3dfx.com to see which one best suits your needs), install it in a free PCI slot, plug in your VCR and record away. (Or simply record you favorite shows directly onto your PC to begin with once youÆre up and running on your Voodootv.) Just be aware that youÆre going to have to record and store your shows to your hard drive prior to burning them onto CD. ThatÆs going to require a lot of free space, so make sure youÆve got several GB free before you proceed.

I have some questions in regards to upgrading my IBM Aptiva 2161-C85. I want to upgrade the CPU and motherboard, and have been looking at getting a new 600MHz to 800MHz Celeron (or Athlon) and a motherboard. When I went to IBMÆs website and checked the system specs for my Aptiva, I learned that my existing motherboard and case are in the LPX form factor. My questions are: (a) Can I purchase a new LPX motherboard (IÆve looked at several online computer retailers and have found none)? (b) If I find one, is it even worth it? (c) Should I forget about my case and simply buy a new one along with a motherboard and CPU? (d) Should I just cry like a baby and curl up into the fetal position while lamenting my lowly, penniless status as a student running a computer with horrendously slow framerates?
ù Michael Guimond, via the Internet

Here are the answers to your questions in the order you asked them: Yes. No. Yes. Yes.

Over the last few months, youÆve consistently recommended AMDÆs 700MHz Athlon for your mid-range system. But after spending a few minutes on pricewatch.com, I discovered that I could get a 750MHz for only about $5 more. Have there been problems with the Athlon 750MHz? Is that why you havenÆt been recommending it?
ù John C. Borchers, via the Internet

Have no fear, John! ThereÆs nothing as sinister as a ôproblemö at the heart of this matter. We have a two-month lead-time from when we create the contents of the magazine to when it actually hits the shelves. As a result, prices have often changed by the time readers get a hold of the latest issue. YouÆre right ù the difference between the 700MHz and 750MHz Athlon is only a few dollars right now. Why? Probably because AMD wants to push the 750MHz instead of the 700MHz ù who wouldnÆt buy the faster chip if thereÆs really no difference in price, right? If both of these chips are in your price range, go for the faster one without hesitation!

Hey Vede, I need to know if itÆs possible to share a single cable modem line between two computers. If so, what will I need to do to set this up?
ù Steve, via the Internet

Well, thereÆs only one strictly ôkosherö way to do it, and thatÆs to pay for a second IP address for the second computer. This is also the one sure-fire way to be able to play multiplayer Internet games, since, depending on the protocol and game, youÆll need a unique IP for each PC. Now, of course, there are always loopholesàMuhahahaha! Though IÆm sure thereÆs software available that would do pretty much the same thing, hardware is probably the best way to go here (assuming that your cable modem is of the standard external Ethernet/RJ-24 variety ù the one that uses lines that look like oversized telephone jacks on the end).
HereÆs what to do: go out and get yourself something like the Linksys BEFSR41 4-Port Cable/DSL Router. This puppy will cost a little under $150 and will allow you to surf the Net and play games on multiple computers ù all with the single IP address youÆve been assigned by your provider. Your router will run with your original IP to get you up and running on the Internet, and then it will assign a unique IP to your computer and any other computers (up to 253) that you have attached to it. Of course, each additional computer will require a Ethernet/network card of its own to connect to the router; these will run around $30 each. Anyone else out there have a good software solution? If so, email me at gvederman@pcgamer.com, and IÆll tell everyone about it in next monthÆs Q&A.